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cammyfive

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Posts posted by cammyfive

  1. No need to re-clean them.  The Leather Conditioner has cleaning properties, and it sounds like  your seats are already dry so cleaning them again will dry them more.  Just use the Conditioner, wipe down, and reapply as needed until it's all uniform.

     

     

    Finally had some success with Leather Conditioner recently using this method.  Put on some of the black latex style gloves and applied two pumps of Leather Cleaner to the seats with my (gloved) hands.  Rubbed it in for a solid 5 minutes, let dry, wiped down, and repeated the process two more times.  Finally got the seats streak free and fully protected after about an hour.  

  2. If you're getting streaks or blotches, the problem isn't in buffing. It's a simple thing of some parts being dryer than others and soaking up the product quicker so those areas will look "blotchy" or "streaky" where it has already dried.  Sometimes you'll need to apply 2 or 3 times to get a uniform appearance.  Apply it liberally, don't be stingy with it.  It's good stuff and works better than any of the other leather products I've used over the years. 

     

     

    Interesting.  I was always told to apply it sparingly.  This weekend I'll have to try the more is better method.

  3. I struggled with that the Leather Conditioner seeming rather blotchy and found that if you really spend some time buffing off any high spots or really the whole area in general after the conditioner has soaked in is the trick.  I spend about 5-6 minutes buffing off a single seat to really make sure there is zero blotchiness.  

  4. The idea was for blank labels like the ones that come on the empty bottles, not actual product labels.

     

    Selling Blank Labels is not that different from selling the empty bottles with blank labels on them.

     

    +10000000000000.  The suggestion of selling blank labels not already stuck on the bottle is that they are infinitely easier to write on, especially if you are extremely OCD like I assume most of us and certainly I am.

  5. I have a number of empty Adams 16oz spray bottles and would love to utilize them for different Adams liquids than they originally came with so how about selling the Adams bottle labels that are blank so you can write on them whats in the bottle.  I'd prefer them not attached to the bottle as they're easy to write on unattached and then to apply to the bottle.  Thoughts?

  6. I had Xpel PPF put on the front bumper and side mirror caps of my 2015 Camry.  Until recently, I was driving the car 3-4K a month for work and have noticed only a tiny fraction of a pinkie nail gouch from where a large rack bounced up from a semi and clunked it.  Of all the vehicle stuff I've spent money on in my life, Xpel PPF ranks up there as the best.  No complaints and my installer (Clear Auto Bra in St. Louis, MO) did it PERFECTLY, I can only see it when I'm literally 6-8" from the front bumper and the car is clean and I'm TRYING to see it.  I can't recommend it enough.  

  7. I'm in support of phasing out the white MF pads.  I've never had ideal results on any of the paint I've worked with when finishing down with them; they always leave a bit of haze that was frustrating.  Full disclosure:  I really don't care to work with MF pads at all unless the paint is truly hammered and you're starting a saw session on it, for me, foam is my go to 90-95% of the time.  

  8. Through some horse trading and good sales here, I've acquired almost two full gallons of AP Waterless Wash.  Now I've read the differences between using Rinseless Wash diluted vs using RTU Waterless Wash but am interested in a less conventional use:  spraying WW liberally a car that has just had the final rinse after a 2 bucket wash.  I know a lot of your guys/gals do that with Detail Spray but I'm curious if WW would essentially do the same thing, albeit without some gloss enhancement built in (which I'm ok with).  Anyone do this or have some thoughts on the idea?

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