Junkman2008

There should be lettering on the cord itself. If not, take the cord to a store that sells them and compare the size. Simple.

Yes, I do use SHR to demonstrate the technique but I state that SHR was the thickest stuff I had. It is not remotely as thick as the compounds that the slow cut technique was invented for. The slow cut is made for paste-like compounds.

Well there's two things that you need to realize before you start. First off, the "slow cut" is NOT made to be used with the type of polishes that Adam's sells. It is made to be used with paste like compounds. I make that clear in the slow cut video thread. Second, unless you are working on some of the imports, don't waste your time with the slow cut. You are not dealing with soft clear. Just use my regular technique from start to finish. You are not going to mess up anything if that's what you're worrying about. That's the least of your worries.

Nine to fourteen pounds is not aggressive. The better question is, who's technique are you going to use? If you are using the technique that I use, then you have to do it EXACTLY as I do it. If anything, it sounds as if you are going to try and mix my technique up with something else and I can only promise you one thing. Failure. Technique trumps product any day and you set yourself up for disappointment when your technique is not solid.

You are going to have to go back and watch both video series and take notes so that you can quote me word for word. If you do, you'll see that I am saying the exact same thing in both video series. It is next to impossible to do damage to your paint with the PC, period. However, if you turn the thing all the way up, get the most aggressive polish known to man, stand on top of the polisher with all your weight on a very pronounced edge for about 10 minutes, I'm sure some damage will happen. You know, do all the things that only a complete idiot would do.

They took a short cut. I would never do it that way, especially if the scratch went into the paint.

They can't just re-clear that, it will have to be painted also. The first step is to bring the scratch back up to the same level as the rest of the car. Once you do that, you have to repaint and re-clear. Here's a kit I like. It work great for fixing deep scratches but it takes some practice and it ain't cheap. They make it look a lot easier than it actually is in their videos.

They can't just re-clear that, it will have to be painted also. The first step is to bring the scratch back up to the same level as the rest of the car. Once you do that, you have to repaint and re-clear. Here's a kit I like. It work great for fixing deep scratches but it takes some practice and it ain't cheap. They make it look a lot easier than it actually is in their videos.

Likewise Dan, you still out there catching everyone's best angle? I'm surprised that the department of corrections hasn't tabbed you to take mugshots. You have such a special way of capturing a person's essence. Been working on my cars and other ventures. Got the El Camino running yesterday and promptly took it out for a city streets terrorizing mission. Hide the women and children.

How hard is it to burn the paint? THIS HARD.

No, you can't just reshoot the clear. Now you have to reshoot the panel as if you are painting it similar to the first time. If the spot is close to an adjacent panel, you will have to shoot color into both panels and re-clear both panels completely. It gets more fun when the damage is at a corner where 3 panels meet. That also gets a lot more expensive.

That would be incorrect. Automotive paint as it comes in a can is too thick to be sprayed on a car. Thus, it has to be mixed with other solvents in order to get it from the can to the car. Those solvents then have to out-gas, which is what the curing process is. Clear coat has to be mixed with a hardener, usually 4:1. It doesn't have to be mixed with anything to make it sprayable (if that's a word), only the hardener to make it hard once it dries. Yes it does vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and from car to car. However, your numbers are way off. If cars had 20-30 MILS of clear coat on them, strike-through would be hard to experience! You could also do orange peel removal on a car with that much clear coat. You definitely can't do that with the measly amount of clear coat on today's new cars. I can't say what the average is but the C6 Corvette for example has about 1.7 MILS of clear on them if my memory serves me right. I know that they get around 1.2 MILS of paint. Remember, there is 1000 microns in every MIL. Here's a video on the Corvette painting process. <object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WqwAhZx3wg?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WqwAhZx3wg?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="360"></object> Thank you sir!

I wish that I had seen this earlier. I could have killed some of the guessing going on in this thread. First of all, this is DEFINITELY strike through. No doubt about it, I've seen it countless times. Now let's address another misconception. Mike you posted, "Thus, my conclusion is that I have actually cut through the clear somehow. I was extremely careful (I thought to the point of paranoia) while using the focus pads, so I am stunned that I managed to do this." My question is why are you stunned? The reason I say that is because you were basically using a small, rotary polisher. The rotary action that you create with a drill is just as deadly to your paint as using a real rotary polisher. You don't have to turn the speed up on the drill to do damage, friction equals heat. It does NOT take high RPM's to generate heat. It is the constant contact of that pad and the paint that will create heat and create it fast. You stated that you kept moving the pad. What you didn't realize is that you were moving the pad much to SLOW. There is a such thing as moving a rotary polisher to slow and that's what will create a strike through condition like what you experienced. There are two things you should notice about my videos. I don't show people how to use a rotary polisher because you can't teach this stuff on You Tube. This is something that has to be taught in a hands on, somebody staring over your shoulder type of environment. Second, you never see me use the focus pads on a drill in my videos unless I'm working on glass for the very reason that you have just experienced. There are just too many opportunities for this exact thing to happen. If I am going to use a focus pads on paint, it is going to be with the PC. The end, not up for debate with me. The thing I read about clear coat having "two stages" (or something to that effect) is totally bogus. Clear is clear through and through. There is no difference from the top of the clear coat or the bottom of it. Clear is the same from the top to the bottom. One thing that you should realize about clear is the amount of it can affect the color of your paint. Think of clear like water in a swimming pool. Water is clear in color. You can see right through it. However, the water in the deep end of a swimming pool looks more blue that the water in the shallow end. Is it because the water is actually more blue in the deep end? If so, how does the blue water stay in the deep end and not mix with the water in the shallow end? Of course, these are stupid questions because the water is the same color no matter what end of the pool it resides. The color change of course is due to the depth of the water. Clear coat on a car is exactly the same way. The more clear you use, the more it will affect the color you see of the paint on the car. Thus, matching a car's paint color is only half the equation when fixing some damage. You also have to match the amount of clear on the car so that the panel you paint doesn't stand out from the other panels. Everyone reading this thread should now realize why I am such a big fan of paint thickness gauges. I would not do this stuff for a living without have two of them. One for fiberglass cars and one for all other cars. This way, I never have to worry about strike through. I can constantly monitor exactly how much clear coat I am removing during a repair. You can't do this with just any paint thickness guage, you have to use a special one. The one I like to use is the DeFelsko Positector 200 B or C Advanced. These gauges will tell me how much primer, paint AND clear coat is on every spot of the car. That's a safety blanket that is well worth the $2800.00 price tag that each of these gauges come with. Last of all, never try and fix a scratch that you can feel. If you can feel it, then it is too deep for a novice to repair. No exceptions, leave it alone. In most cases, that scratch is through the clear coat unless the car has an after market paint job. In that case, it needs to be evaluated on a scratch by scratch basis.

The black utility towel will catch and hold onto every kind of trash it touches. I would never wash them with anything but themselves.

I separate all of mine. There have been complaints of linting when you wash them together.

If you can see a difference between the two, you have magical powers. Polishing will cause water to bead so any wax will do the same thing if you try it just after using the product. The difference between the two product is how they are applied and how long they last. Water bead test right after waxing is fools gold if you ask me.

Wow, that is bad!

I made the video, I just have to edit it. And then there's the two day upload to You Tube. That takes forever and I have to stay off the web because my upload speed sucks.

I have absolutely no clue. The only detailers I know, post on this forum.

You need to watch the videos. I give the code in all my videos (if you just skip through them, you will miss the code). It does you no good to order anything if you don't know how to use it. You need to start watching the videos in this area that cover the subject matter that you are interested in. I'm trying to get you exactly what you need. It does me no good for you to buy anything if you are not 110% satisfied with what it does. Before you can achieve that level of satisfaction, you have to know how to use the products.

Hey Bill, the 80's called and said your hair is doing fine!

Nice. Lovin' the gangster white walls!

Well you can't buff scratches out of colored plastic without melting the plastic. That ain't happening with a PC, nor would I advise it.

That totally depends on how deep the scratch is. If your fingernail catches on it, forget about it. You are not going to be able to remove it. If the scratch is not that deep, then I ask you what is the pillar covered with? Is it painted? If not, you will need to replace it. Especially if it is colored plastic.

Now you know why I tell people to watch them more than once. There's no way that you can retain everything that I put in those videos after watching them only once.