Mamba

because he got a new car and stopped washing it so often in the winter and it didn't rust after. I'll have to search for the post again, but if memory serves me right he had asked a professor he was friends with and he told him the science behind it. And to your point, if doing nothing would be worse, wouldn't all/most cars rust like his did? assuming most don't wash cars as lovingly as we do in the forum

I don't have a garage. I wouldn't wash my car for possibly 2 months if I wait for salt to go away. Last time i did that with my previous car I had some clear coat damage above my rear wheels

its the first time i heard of it too, I was wondering if it was true. I'm going to try the rinseless wash now but in the case I take it to a coin-op, I wanted to check if I should not go too often. If you think about it, it makes sense, you can't dry what you can't see. I at least don't have an air dryer or master blaster/leaf blower

My car is a daily driver and this is the first full winter I will have it. I read somewhere that washing it too often in winter after snow and salt have gone into the road is bad. Reasoning is that dry salt won't corrode your paint, but salt in a liquid will eat through the clear and rust your car. This person apparently had washed down his car very often in the winter and a few years into it, rust would be easily visible as it had eaten some metal from the inside out from sitting salt water in crevices. Thoughts? Should i limit washing to once a month or wipe down without a full wash more often?

you can apply americana with a porter cable? i thought it was hand applied only

thats what I was thinking, i may spray some DWC on it and see if there are contaminants but I figured i would ask what others thought

Ha its a little trick i learned from someone else on the forum. I bought a $4 bucket from lowes and was using it for some time but the grit guard would float. Added the wire ties and now it presses against the sides of the bucket and stays in the bottom like its suppposed to.

whats that? rub a cd with it and see if it gets scratched?

Yea... This one was already labeled S for sealant, since I have another one for brilliant glaze. I guess I'll add a W to it, was trying to avoid buying another one or at least grouping products in a logical manner.

I bought new wheels and applied 2 layers of quick sealant on them, but now my applicator pad is much darker and dirty looking than before. The wheels were a matte black, and should not have had brake dust. Is it safe to still use this pad on my car's paint? Or have I just dedicated it to wheel use now? You can see the mini Americana pad next to it for comparison, the colors used to be the same shade of red... Help, and thanks!

I have the whole car covered in quick sealant, so it's protected some. Americana isn't cheap so I was wondering if it's worth applying wax everywhere, but if it causes issues then I'm def not cutting corners

It was a nice day today so I washed and waxed my car, but I came up on something new. Almost having finished my mini Americana tub, I felt hesitant to wax the bottom half of my car since it gets dirty pretty quick. Does anyone else feel the same way? Should I save most of the product for the top half or will I end up with weird issues of uneven shine. Thanks!

i've always like it, but there are quite a few bugs in the mobile version still. for example - try opening a daily special link from an iphone, blank page opens...

Thanks guys, I'll try them out again soon and see if they keep coming apart. If they stay the way they are I'll just keep them

Can you explain why Dawn is specifically used? I've heard it many times before, but haven't read an explanation of why Dawn is the magic soap.

Yep, it's kind of annoying and it happens to me too. At least sealing isn't something I do too often

Good point, I will see after I wash it. It rained last night and it looks like it might rain here again pretty soon but hopefully that's all it is.

Mook, how would you strip the panel? I have seen posts where people say just spray some APC on the panel and wipe after or during the wash, others say add it to the foam gun with the shampoo. Should i do an IPA wipedown after too? Also it seems like the agreed issue is that the QS is gone, as opposed to the wax which I initially thought. If i use MSS, you're saying it's ok that after the initial 30 minutes when i wipe it, anything that falls on it (pollen) won't get cured on top with the sealant?

yep, i am. My wash process is using 3 buckets (with grit guards), a merino wool mitt and a 9x9 microfiber pad for the lower half, and Adam's shampoo. I use a foam gun prior to using the pads with adam's shampoo and an ounce or so of waterless wash. spray it all with detail spray after and dry with a great white towel. I have the super sealant, but i haven't used it because i cannot store it inside right now, and all the pollen that would fall on it overnight would probably not be good.

man, thats not what i wanted to hear Hood is better, but still doesn't bead as it did when I just applied the wax. rear fender is where it was more obvious. It does sit outside all day, no shade either. It's my only car, but since I work from home I do not give it very many miles. I've also only ever used adam's products on it, including the Swirl and Haze remover and Fine machine polish when i detailed it with the flex. Could it be that the glaze it really eating away at it, or maybe all the pollen?

So I detailed my car a month or less ago, used quick sealant, glaze and then Americana. A week and a half ago, I washed the car again and reapplied glaze and Americana. It was beading like a champ, but today I noticed that the beads in the rear fender were not contained as nicely as before and were starting to spread a little. Should I reapply wax? I'm worried about hazing if I keep adding layers of wax. Or is it time to reseal? Or is this normal lol

Maybe a dri-fit shirt?? Those are real nice and light weight, very breathable