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Body shop botched my repair plus my partial fix...


chrisguga

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A co-worker clipped my car and put a few scratches in my left rear quarter panel and I took it to a highly recommended local body shop.

 

First, they obviously didn't use GM paint because the paint color is way too dark and even the metal flake density is different. I didn't notice this when I picked up the car yesterday because it was overcast and sprinkling.

 

Second, they must have washed the panels around the one they fixed with a dirt covered rag because they left massive swirls all in the clear. It wasn't anything like this when I dropped it off because I recently hand polished the whole car.

 

Luckily, I now have the tools and the skills to fix the swirl problem, but I'm going to have to give them a call tomorrow and see if they're going to fix the paint color problem.

 

See for yourselves....

 

You can see the color difference from this angle:

1.jpg

 

Wonderful swirls:

2.jpg

 

Swirls plus color difference:

3.jpg

 

Swirls:

4.jpg

 

3 hits of SSR:

5.jpg

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Swirls fixed, but still a color difference:

6.jpg

 

Just showing off a little after only SSR hits:

7.jpg

 

Got to try my new 4" focus pads + drill on this little guy:

8.jpg

 

It took quite a bit longer than I expected, but I got it out:

9.jpg

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I'm still fighting a mismatched door from when my truck was hit over a year ago, 3 paint jobs and its still not right. I've finally settled on the fact that I'm gonna have to repaint the whole truck if I want it to meet my standards, so finding the funds to do so is now the hurdle.

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I'm still fighting a mismatched door from when my truck was hit over a year ago, 3 paint jobs and its still not right. I've finally settled on the fact that I'm gonna have to repaint the whole truck if I want it to meet my standards, so finding the funds to do so is now the hurdle.

Did you find that aftermarket paint swirls/mars easier than factory?

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Too many different clears on the market to make a blanket statement about them. The stuff they used on my truck seems almost identical to the factory paint as far as hardness.

 

I've worked on aftermarket clears that were harder than concrete and some so soft they mar with the lightest touch. All comes down to what the shop that does the work uses.

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Here's a link to my aforementioned ordeal.

 

In the end it was replaced with a new bumper, repainted with a paint rep from the company on hand, and all billed to the insurance co.

 

At the end of the day it's just one of those mental "your mind's F-ing with you" things... If I look at the unmolested, factory-fresh front bumper I see a bit of variance there, too, and that's one of those things I'd never even noticed or looked for before. And you walk through any parking lot and you see practically every car bumper has a SOME of variance between bumper and paint. In your case I think it's worth fighting to get it closer, but don't give yourself an ulcer if it's not an absolute, $100,000 paint job perfect match. Another upside is that it's the bumper and not metal bodywork.

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Dylan, I'd say unless you plan to keep that truck longer than what you commonly do, it'd be cheaper to trade it in and buy something new again... I guess I got lucky with my G8 when I brought it in for a rock chip from HE;LL... They painted the whole fender and then buffed. I ended up having to wet sand the remaining orange peel on the fender and then correct, but the paint matches perfectly IMO.

 

GM doesn't use "GM" paint. It shouldn't matter who makes it, as long as they mix it properly for the correct match.

 

Chris

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