Can Claying scratch this deep?

[CTSV]

So, I decided that the CTS would actually be the first on the run with the PC, and frankly most of the test area came out pretty good. However, the main purpose of the PC was to take out what I thought were micro scratches made by the claying process from the dealer.. after 2 passes with fine machine, then another 2 passes on regular swirl followed by fine machine on the PC, then another 2 passes with the same(swirl>fine machine) on the 4" focus pads, I find myself still looking at these things.

I'm not sure if I'm letting the product flash properly, even after a few minutes on the same application it never really turned what I would consider ''nearly'' transparent, but I would assume considering the number of applications and the fact that the rest of the test area came out buttery smooth on the baggie test *and* I don't see any micro-marring due to wrong use, that I'm doing it correctly.

 

Has anyone heard of scratches like this coming from claying? I'm essentially considering severe swirling 4,000 mile paint(they're *everywhere*), because they're obviously deeper than I originally thought. The only other thing that they've done is an auto-wash or two (against my wishes..).

 

maybe I need to try some more passes with the focus pads?

 

The alternative would be to take it back to GM for them to fix it(if they even would, these things are only visible in direct light basically), likely with some wool buffer pad and a heavy compound...

[CTSV]

Sounds like you've got some hard clear there. In the overall scheme of things, I would think a harder clear coat would be better.

 

If it's hard, it sure does chip insanely easily.

 

To tell if the Swirl & Haze Remover is 'flashing', work the polish in your back and forth, up and down pattern again and again. When it 'flashes' it goes from milky looking to a kind of coat of vaseline look. You can even work it a bit more from there until the vaseline look thins out a bit more so it is more like an oily fingerprint.

that's ~ when I was stopping, but know I have a better idea, thanks.

 

Going to tackle it again this friday, I think I've decided that even if I took it back to GM one of two things would eventually happen;

1) they'd laugh and tell me it was there previously/ I did it myself

2) take waaay too much off or screw something else up.

 

so here I come full-correction.

[the1inblue]

I had some similar scratches on the bumper of my camaro and a drill with focus pads did fine. Check of my thread under machine polishing.

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[chrisguga]

IMO the PC isn't a great tool for getting real scratches out. A drill with the 4" focus pads works so much better and quickly too.

 

The PC is slow...but safe...for doing large areas of swirls and micro scratches.

 

My approach is use the PC stepping through the green and orange pads. Then stop and look for any scratches that still need some attention, use the 4" pads on these then go back to the white pad on the PC. Seems to save me alot of time.

I have found that wool pads and a more aggressive compound make short work of scratches and/or oxidation. I wouldn't use this combo when you're just dealing with some mild swirls, but I feel this more aggressive combo is absolutely necessary in some cases.

 

I literally spent 4 hours one night just to get one door correct using the green pad and SSR. I did my wife's entire car in 4 hours using wool pads, a more aggressive polish, and then one hit of FMP and the white pad and the result was terrific. What's really neat, is the FMP and white pad wasn't even necessary. I didn't even see any buffer trails or holograms under my 500w halogens after 2 hits of the wool pad and 105, but I used the FMP/white pad combo just for piece of mind.

[CTSV]

so, an hour in, 3 passes with severe swirl and another couple of passes on the 4" with a drill have yet taken these things out..

[CTSV]

IMO the PC isn't a great tool for getting real scratches out. A drill with the 4" focus pads works so much better and quickly too.

 

The PC is slow...but safe...for doing large areas of swirls and micro scratches.

 

My approach is use the PC stepping through the green and orange pads. Then stop and look for any scratches that still need some attention, use the 4" pads on these then go back to the white pad on the PC. Seems to save me alot of time.

 

I'm going to work on this all day tomorrow, going to move toward the whole hood and hit it with some fine machine up to the swirl remover and see what's left over. If it's only these 2-3 I might just go that route and touch-up the scratches on the 4"ers. Worst comes to it, I know now a friend with a Flex. I just didn't expect to be using these on the Cadillac, but I'm glad I bought it now I suppose.

[DaveVY]

Even the Severe Swirl Remover and green pad offered by Adam's really aren't very powerful on a PC. I had the same problem getting scratches out of the paint on my car and had to turn to a more aggressive combo.

 

Now that I have the main scratches handled, the Adam's stuff is GREAT for maintenance work.

 

IMO the PC isn't a great tool for getting real scratches out. A drill with the 4" focus pads works so much better and quickly too.

 

The PC is slow...but safe...for doing large areas of swirls and micro scratches.

 

My approach is use the PC stepping through the green and orange pads. Then stop and look for any scratches that still need some attention, use the 4" pads on these then go back to the white pad on the PC. Seems to save me alot of time.

[chrisguga]

Wool is a four letter word around here, but it really works well on a PC and is a really nice way to boost your PC up to Flex power, IMO.

[GTCS007]

I worked on car that the scratches were under a new clear-coat took a while to get the angle right to see that they were in the original paint. Just a thought. Flex is a great option for heavier scratched paint. Takes a lot of time and work out of paint correction.

[chrisguga]

Even the Severe Swirl Remover and green pad offered by Adam's really aren't very powerful on a PC. I had the same problem getting scratches out of the paint on my car and had to turn to a more aggressive combo.

 

Now that I have the main scratches handled, the Adam's stuff is GREAT for maintenance work.

[Doug123]

Sounds like you've got some hard clear there. In the overall scheme of things, I would think a harder clear coat would be better.

 

To tell if the SHR is 'flashing', work the polish in your back and forth, up and down pattern again and again. When it 'flashes' it goes from milky looking to a kind of coat of vaseline look. You can even work it a bit more from there until the vaseline look thins out a bit more so it is more like an oily fingerprint.

[Reichler]

However if your finger nail doesn't catch in the scratch with Adam's products you can remove it.

 

Not necessarily. It all depends on how hard the clear is on your car. To make a long story short, I have a buddy with a white 99 T/A who has scratches all over his paint - None of them catch a finger.

 

I worked on the car with focus pads and a PC which didn't even put a dent in them.

 

Eric T and I then tackled them with a Flex the other weekend with SSR (probably 4-6 passes) and could barely even make a dent in them. We came to the conclusion that the clear is simply too hard to correct without a heavier cut compound. Dave and I will be tackling that at a later date.

 

So, it really depends on the hardness of the clear.

[CTSV]

I would say that the scratch was already there and when you clayed you stripped the fillers that had it hid. However if your finger nail doesn't catch in the scratch with Adam's products you can remove it. I would start with the 4" Focal pads with SSR and Green pad, and work your way down.

 

The *only* reason I haven't brought it up is because they all passed the nail test, which is why I was just surprised when the 4" focus on the drill didn't take it out on the medium cut.

[Chris@Adams]

I would say that the scratch was already there and when you clayed you stripped the fillers that had it hid. However if your finger nail doesn't catch in the scratch with Adam's products you can remove it. I would start with the 4" Focal pads with SSR and Green pad, and work your way down.

[BlueGenCoupe]

If the clay had something caught in it yes...

 

If something was caught in the clay, there would be a scratch pattern and There doesn't seem to be one.

 

That's an easy fix with the pc or flex. No worries

[Fierce5]

If the clay had something caught in it yes...

 

. Its either something caught in the clay (maybe you have dropped it and reused it?) This is what I wold do if this was a car I'm working on:

Make sure your fingernail doesn't get caught in the scratch, if it does then its probably deeper than what the PC can handle,, wetsanding is the solution in this case, if it doesn't then proceed

Clay a test area with a brand new clay bar (maybe the deeper scratch)

Go ahead and start with the Swirl and Haze Remover with the Orange pad on a PC, do a second or a third pass as needed until you achieve results you like.

Proceed with the fine machine polish and again as many passes as needed to achieve best results and remove the trace left by the Swirl and Haze Remover

Apply a wax or a sealant.

Post pics with final results.

[Kingsford]

If the clay had something caught in it yes...

[Odds and Ends]

I wouldn't think that is from clay, but anything's possible. My guess would be either those automatic car washes you referred to and/or the drying process by the "staff" at those wash places. Dirty towels are likely the culprit(s). They'll come out, but it may take awhile. Too bad you're not closer...I'd certainly be glad to lend a hand. You may end up needed some SSR on a focus pad, but if you say "they're everywhere", then you may have a long road ahead of you. Good luck!

 

- Darryl