How to use Revive

[spacecowby]

I have only used Revive once on my black car after SHR and FMP. I can say that I did see I difference but I am not sure I was using it right. I applied it by using straight lines that flow with the length of the body and once I had a panel done I wiped it off. Is this correct? I haven't seen an instructional video on how to use it like all the other products. Should I apply in circles like a wax or is there a set amount of time it should stay on the car?

[Green Machine]

Blue app like revive circular motion like waxing overlap a bit so you get every inch. Haze remove with soft micro. Can be applied right on top of swirl and haze remover to save time! Different pad of course for swirl and haze remover!

[Z71_Denali]

watch this video:

<IFRAME height=315 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Y5JwT1tk8ZU" frameBorder=0 width=560 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

 

you can either work it in circles or do front to back, side to side motions like with a machine polisher. no need to leave polish on the paint, it does not correct the paint by sitting and curing like wax does to protect the paint.

[Chris@Adams]

If you are using FMP, you really don't need to use Revive.

[spacecowby]

Thanks for the video, I must have missed that one. As for not using Revive if using FMP I read or saw that Junkman uses Revive after FMP on black cars. I tried it on mine after FMP and maybe it was placebo effect but I do think it looked better, almost like it was constantly wet.

[Z71_Denali]

Thanks for the video, I must have missed that one. As for not using Revive if using FMP I read or saw that Junkman uses Revive after FMP on black cars. I tried it on mine after FMP and maybe it was placebo effect but I do think it looked better, almost like it was constantly wet.

 

next time you use the FMP, use your trunk lid as a test panel, tape half of it off and apply the Revive to one side after the FMP. remove the tape to see if there is any difference.

[Junkman2008]

Thanks for the video, I must have missed that one. As for not using Revive if using FMP I read or saw that Junkman uses Revive after FMP on black cars. I tried it on mine after FMP and maybe it was placebo effect but I do think it looked better, almost like it was constantly wet.

 

What you saw was a thread were I stated that I will sometimes use Revive polish on FLAT BLACK CARS, not paint jobs like they have on black cars today. Flat black paint jobs are found on older classic and mostly single stage paint jobs (unlike the 2-stage paint jobs that are common on cars today). On 2-stage paint jobs, I will use nothing more than SSR, SHR, and FMP only as needed. Revive will never come into the equation for me on a 2-stage paint job.

[LDM]

When you say "flat black" are you talking about matte black like what a can of flat black spray paint will result in, or are you just talking about solid, non-metallic black? When I think of flat paint, I think of the opposite of gloss paint.

[Junkman2008]

When you say "flat black" are you talking about matte black like what a can of flat black spray paint will result in, or are you just talking about solid, non-metallic black? When I think of flat paint, I think of the opposite of gloss paint.

 

Solid, non-metallic black would be an accurate description. If you polish matte black, it will no longer be matte.

[LDM]

Solid, non-metallic black would be an accurate description. If you polish matte black, it will no longer be matte.

 

Ok, that's what I thought you were talking about. If you go buy a can of "flat black" paint, I don't know why anyone would want to polish it, because it would no longer be flat. I know there are a lot of hot rods with a matte, or flat black paint job, and wasn't sure if you were referring to those. Again, I was under the assumption that you couldn't polish those paint jobs, but since we're talking about Revive, I thought maybe it might be possible it's mild enough that it doesn't ruin the matte aspect.

[Junkman2008]

Polishing makes stuff shine. There's no way around that. The proper amount of heat generated by the correct amount of friction (or the correct longevity of friction), is what breaks any finish down; it's what breaks anything down. If you achieve enough heat through friction, shine will show up at your door.

 

Resistance is futile.