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New 2012 F150


M.YANCEY

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Hey guys new to your forum I have learn at lot about detailing after reading here. This is my problem, The truck was ordered for me in Feb and I just took delivered of it last Saturday. I ask the dealer not to wash it but the guys in the service dept did anyway I was mad as h***. It looked OK in the sun but when I got it in my shop under those fleosant lights I found about 4-5 scratches 1 on the lower door and 3 on the bed. Remember this truck was built in march 3/12 the service manger told me it was fine to wax it now... I told him remember this truck is less then 1 month old HE SAID THE PAINT WAS CURED AND WAX IT IF YOU WANT! I thought you had to wait 30-60 day before you could wax a new ride?? So this is what I did..

1. wash and cleaned it from front to back

2. I tryed to polish those scratches out with Meguiar'e scratch X and it took them almost out you could not fill them with your nail before I started but it left the surface with a haze and I did not like that at all. So I took 3M FINESSE-IT II and polished the haze right away and it looked great.

3. I used mothers (reflections) top coat and went over my work and it was slick as glass

I ask two different body shops if it was fine to do the whole truck with 3M FINESSE-IT II and the dealer they told me it would be fine because it would remove some of the junk that got on it in transport, just put your wax after. So guys I worked on my brand new truck for over 6 hours and It looks great. I hope this was not too soon. Since all this I have ordered me a kit from ADAMS to keep my new truck looking great. I guy told me I could have used a PC 7424 and it would have been a lot easier but I have never used a polisher or buffer because I was affiard I would do damage you guys make it look easy. I hope it was ok what I did??? Please let me know what you think?

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Welcome Michael. Factory paint is cured in an 'oven.' You are good to go on factory paint for correcting, polishing, sealing or waxing. Use up or donate those other chemicals like the rest of us did. As for the PC, the only way to damage your finish with one is from dropping it or banging it in to the paint. Watch the videos and emulate what you see Adam doing and you'll be fine.

Embedding no worky....:mad:

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Welcome Michael. Factory paint is cured in an 'oven.' You are good to go on factory paint for correcting, polishing, sealing or waxing. Use up or donate those other chemicals like the rest of us did. As for the PC, the only way to damage your finish with one is from dropping it or banging it in to the paint. Watch the videos and emulate what you see Adam doing and you'll be fine.

Embedding no worky....:mad:

Thanks for the fast reply! So I am good to go even thought the truck is less than 1 month old?

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Is it too late to clay it now?? I wish I know it, That is why I am here to get you pro's to help my out.. I tell you it was a job to do what I did, I have been real sick with the chemo treatments. Thanks for all the help guys. I could tell when I put 3m finesse-it on the paint that it was rough, but after that it was smooth as glass. What sould I do at this point??

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It is not too late to clay. Try the baggie test to determine if it needs to be clayed - rub your hand on a clean spot on the hood, then put your hand in a thin plastic bag and rub the same spot. You should feel the roughness with the bag that the clay will remove. If it's smooth there is not need to clay.

 

The claying process can induce some marring, so be prepared to polish after. I would recommend waiting until you are ready to polish with the PC. Do a strip wash (Dawn or APC + car wash shampoo) or a regular wash and an IPA wipe down. Clay the car, polish, and protect.

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It is not too late to clay. Try the baggie test to determine if it needs to be clayed - rub your hand on a clean spot on the hood, then put your hand in a thin plastic bag and rub the same spot. You should feel the roughness with the bag that the clay will remove. If it's smooth there is not need to clay.

 

The claying process can induce some marring, so be prepared to polish after. I would recommend waiting until you are ready to polish with the PC. Do a strip wash (Dawn or APC + car wash shampoo) or a regular wash and an IPA wipe down. Clay the car, polish, and protect.

 

Thanks for the info, I did order the kit you guys told me to get started with, Should I order extra pads, What is the best way to clean my pads? I did the bag test and it is slick as glass maybe because I used 3m finesse-it before I wax it??

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Should I order extra pads, What is the best way to clean my pads?

 

I would suggest having 2 orange and 2 white pads to do an entire car in a one day. If you are working over several days it is not such an issue. As you polish they build up spent product and the material that is being removed from the car, so they become less effective.

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/machine-polishing/13171.htm. The white pads take a loooong time to dry!

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