1MeanC3 Posted May 7, 2012 Posted May 7, 2012 The tank and plastics on my bike are looking pretty terrible... Want to get your opinions on how I should attack the paint. The tank is metal, the rest is plastic. I have zero machine polishing tools... So I guess what I'm asking is does this require machine correction? Would I be better off w/ 4" pads vs. the 6" pads, if necessary? Anyway, onto the pictures. This is after a QD wipe down. My bike has 7,969 miles on it.
suke Posted May 7, 2012 Posted May 7, 2012 focus pads for sure. Bike paints, especially Jap bikes, and even more so especially plastic is really soft. You can see through some of my threads the few bikes I've done. Focus pads and a PC are the way to go. I've noticed the paint on the plastics are HELLA soft, on the tank they're soft but not nearly as soft.
1MeanC3 Posted May 7, 2012 Author Posted May 7, 2012 It used to shine awesome when I first got it, I know the potential is there. Been wanting to try my GWC on the wheels as well, but not sure the brush will clear the brakes. Might have to hit the rear wheel w/ APC to get the wax/grease up. Guess I'll have to order some machine supplies... The paint on my truck needs work too, but it's rusting away so I neglected it. I want to stay current with my bike. Might as well order a PC & some Focus pads. I think if I pull the plastics off it will go a lot easier.
Chewy Posted May 7, 2012 Posted May 7, 2012 It used to shine awesome when I first got it, I know the potential is there. Been wanting to try my GWC on the wheels as well, but not sure the brush will clear the brakes. Might have to hit the rear wheel w/ APC to get the wax/grease up. Guess I'll have to order some machine supplies... The paint on my truck needs work too, but it's rusting away so I neglected it. I want to stay current with my bike. Might as well order a PC & some Focus pads. I think if I pull the plastics off it will go a lot easier. Honestly NO, WAY harder than mounted!!! Just tape everything real well. MUCH easier with something holding it still. On the rear wheels of my SV I use kerosene. It cuts the chain lube like nothing else and then I hit the wheels with GWC and a brush to get the kerosene off. I clean the chain and the wheel at the same time. My Vmax is shaft drive. Man that makes it EASY! lol Chris
1MeanC3 Posted May 7, 2012 Author Posted May 7, 2012 Honestly NO, WAY harder than mounted!!! Just tape everything real well. MUCH easier with something holding it still. On the rear wheels of my SV I use kerosene. It cuts the chain lube like nothing else and then I hit the wheels with GWC and a brush to get the kerosene off. I clean the chain and the wheel at the same time. My Vmax is shaft drive. Man that makes it EASY! lol Chris It doesn't ruin the wheel brush when you're cleaning the kerosene off of the wheel?
1MeanC3 Posted May 7, 2012 Author Posted May 7, 2012 Edit: Broke down & purchased the PC & focus pads. The Ninja will be my first test subject. Starting with black is a good way to dive right in I guess. Did I mention I hate black? It was too good of a deal to pass up...
suke Posted May 8, 2012 Posted May 8, 2012 I use WD40 to break down the chain lube......which is essentially the same thing as kerosene.
Chewy Posted May 8, 2012 Posted May 8, 2012 It doesn't ruin the wheel brush when you're cleaning the kerosene off of the wheel? Heck no! Kerosene is cheap as chips and won't harm anything. Just hit the wheel with plenty of GWC before using the brush and prime the brush with GWC and you'll be happy. You can use WD-40, but why spend the money when Kerosene works as well for much less and can be had in large containers at the hardware store? Chris
1MeanC3 Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 Received my PC and polishes (and 4" pads) a couple weeks ago, this Saturday I finally got around to tackling the bike... Not sure if my methods are wrong, or I'm just expecting too much out of the PC. My routine went like this: - Washed/Clayed - Adams DS wipe down - 2x SSHR w/ Green 4" Pad - 1x SHR w/ Orange 4" Pad - 1x FMP w/ White 4" Pad I'm still seeing what appears to be micro marring... Most of the obvious stuff came out, but in direct sunlight I still see very small swirls. I figured the clear would be soft but it appears to be rather hard. Also, does anyone else notice their 4" pads don't spin perfectly balanced on the PC? Am I supposed to get a different counterweight? It says 5" pads only.... Anyways, a couple pictures. Before pictures are above. After SSHR: After SHR: After FMP: Some others:
DaveVY Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 Looks so much better! You mentioned that you still see a little bit of very small swirls. Is it swirls or a haze? If this is your first time working with polishes you might need to work on your technique. If you work polish too long you can create some micro marring from the dry pad. If you don't work it long enough then you don't gain the full effect of the polish. There is a learning curve to watching for the polish to "flash" and knowing when to stop. The good thing is that you have a dark color which is easiest to see the "flash".
1MeanC3 Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 I plan to wipe it down w/ DS and get a sunlight picture but at the moment the bike has a rather green hue to it... Pollen city here. I think it's little mini scratches that I'm seeing but it's hard to tell with the metallic flake. I was definitely having trouble seeing the polish flash, but I'm not sure I even know what to look for. My green pad did spin right off the tool once, it seems to make the PC shake a bit and that may have had something to do with it. It likes to run off pretty quick with all the curves on the tank. I did follow Dylan's routine right to a T tho.
DaveVY Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 What speed were you running? Remember that 4" pads should not be run any faster than 4 on the PC.
bigaudiofanatic Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 I plan to wipe it down w/ DS and get a sunlight picture but at the moment the bike has a rather green hue to it... Pollen city here. I think it's little mini scratches that I'm seeing but it's hard to tell with the metallic flake. I was definitely having trouble seeing the polish flash, but I'm not sure I even know what to look for. My green pad did spin right off the tool once, it seems to make the PC shake a bit and that may have had something to do with it. It likes to run off pretty quick with all the curves on the tank. I did follow Dylan's routine right to a T tho. Spray down the bike with waterless wash when you are all down, it helps keep the dust from being attracted to the bike. Make sure to throw some wax on her, I recommend super sealant or quick sealant because of how the bugs are.
1MeanC3 Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 What speed were you running? Remember that 4" pads should not be run any faster than 4 on the PC. I was running on a speed 5... Next time I'll try it on 4 and see how it works. Spray down the bike with waterless wash when you are all down, it helps keep the dust from being attracted to the bike. Make sure to throw some wax on her, I recommend super sealant or quick sealant because of how the bugs are. I used NXT only because that's all I had... I do plan to purchase MSS along w/ Buttery & Americana with my next order. I certainly didn't leave the finish bare tho. Didn't even think about WW, I'll steal some of the Adams WW I got my Dad for Chrismas
DaveVY Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 I was running on a speed 5... Next time I'll try it on 4 and see how it works. I made this mistake when I first started... and still have the spot on a rear fender to show for it!! The higher speed will cause more vibration and made my pad fly off twice! The second time the metal spindle hit the car (while still spinning) and left a nice circular spot in the clear!! Since slowing down to speed 4 I've had no more focus adapter plates flying off and the shine results are now perfect too!
1MeanC3 Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 I'll definitely keep that in mind for next time. Speed 4 it is. I assume the 5" counter weight is acceptable? I didn't see anywhere @ Adams where the mentioned needing to change it. Also, I left the washer off as well, the one that was on the 6" pad.
mc2hill Posted June 12, 2012 Posted June 12, 2012 I'll definitely keep that in mind for next time. Speed 4 it is. I assume the 5" counter weight is acceptable? I didn't see anywhere @ Adams where the mentioned needing to change it. Also, I left the washer off as well, the one that was on the 6" pad. The counter weight should be fine. It is really for when using the PC as a sander, as the sanding disks are much lighter than the foam polishing pads.
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