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Factory installed swirls :)


tscan

Question

I posted on here a bit earlier but my circumstances have changed. I bought this car in April and I've always noticed the swirls since the day I got it. I told the dealership, they admitted that sometimes cars come out like this and offered to fix it. I received the car today, and it is much better, but when the service adviser told me they only spent 2 hours on it I knew that it wasn't thoroughly done. The guy who did it wasn't there when I picked up the car so unfortunately I couldn't ask him what was done.

 

Anyway, the car is pretty slick to the touch all around, it feels like they clayed it and then used whatever polish process - BUT I CAN'T BE SURE. It was washed and looks super clean, so here is what I was thinking to achieve perfection.

 

1. IPA wipe down

2. Clay

3. SNH remover

4. FMP

5. IPA wipe down

6. Machine Sealant

 

Would this be the proper procedure? Another problem area I noticed is underneath the door handles, there's definitely some scratches there but I'm not sure how to attack these, any advice? I have the focus pads but I don't think they can get in there.

 

 

img20120817140116.jpg

 

img20120817140236.jpg

 

img20120817140128.jpg

 

img20120817140131.jpg

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My guess is they put something on it with a crap ton of fillers in it and called it good. You'll be able to tell after the IPA wipe down...

 

You're plan looks good! It's not necessary to do an IPA wipe after polish though... Remember, the more you touch it, the more chances you have of imparting scratches in it.

 

Try just FMP first to make sure it doesn't give you the desired results and then go to SHR if needed.

 

Chris

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My guess is they put something on it with a crap ton of fillers in it and called it good. You'll be able to tell after the IPA wipe down...

 

You're plan looks good! It's not necessary to do an IPA wipe after polish though... Remember, the more you touch it, the more chances you have of imparting scratches in it.

 

Try just FMP first to make sure it doesn't give you the desired results and then go to SHR if needed.

 

Chris

 

Thanks for the input :). I'm really hoping they didn't just fill it with crap.

 

IPA is not needed to ensure that all the polish is off? I thought it was bad to apply sealant without doing an IPA wipe down to ensure that the sealant adheres nicely to the paint (I'm no expert though).

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If I was in your shoes, I wouldn't of brought it back to them to touch at all. I would of went straight to the process you mentioned so you know what is being done to your liking or "perfection" as we all like to call it.

 

Since you don't know what was used on it by the dealership I would do the following:

 

-2 Bucket Strip Wash with APC

-Clay Bar with DS (which should remove those marks under the door handles)

-Before you start polishing away, find a 2x2 test area and try SHR 1 or 2 times to see your results. You may need to use SSR first then SHR. Once you get pass that part of the 2x2 test, you know how the rest of the car will look with these steps.

-If you're happy with your test area then you can proceed with the rest of the car with those same steps.

-IPA Wipedown (my preference)

-Apply MSS and let it bond to the surface for 25-30 minutes before removing. Then allow the sealant to cure for at least 12 hours.

 

Make sure to take your time, be patient, drink lots of water, and remember to enjoy the process and have fun instead of "fighting" with the paint to get your outcome. When you're done, grab a beer and admire your work!

 

Good luck, and let us know how it comes out with some pictues! :2thumbs:

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If I was in your shoes, I wouldn't of brought it back to them to touch at all. I would of went straight to the process you mentioned so you know what is being done to your liking or "perfection" as we like to call it.

 

Since you don't know what was used on it be the dealership I would do the following:

 

-2 Bucket Strip Wash with APC

-Clay Bar with DS (which should remove those marks under the door handles)

-Before you start polishing away, find a 2x2 test area and try SHR 1 or 2 times to see your results. You may need to use SSR first then SHR. Once you get pass that part of the 2x2 test, top that area off with FMP so you know who the whole car will look with these steps.

-If you're happy with your test area then you can proceed with the rest of the car with the same steps you used.

-IPA Wipedown

-Apply MSS and let it bond to the surface for 25-30 minutes before removing. Then allow the sealant to cure for at least 12 hours.

 

Make sure to take your time, be patient, drink lots of water, and remember to enjoy the process and have fun instead of "fighting" with the paint to get your outcome. When you're done, grab a beer and admire your work!

 

Good luck, and let us know how it comes out with some pictues! :2thumbs:

 

I'll definitely get some pics :). But do you really think I need to wash it? Since the car is pretty clean couldn't I save some time and just hit it with some IPA?

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I've NEVER done an IPA wipe going from polish to sealant. I use WW and WW towel and clean any spot I see and then apply.

 

IPA is harsh and contains absolutely NO lubrication. Scratches are VERY possible.

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I'll definitely get some pics :). But do you really think I need to wash it? Since the car is pretty clean couldn't I save some time and just hit it with some IPA?

 

If you want to, you can. I just don't trust anything that could be attaching to the paint while driving but I am super OCD. So it would be a wash or WW before I started.

 

As for the IPA wipedown after polishing, you can make your own choice. Like Chewy said, Waterless Wash is awesome to use at that stage as he mentioned. Everyone may have a different opinion on that. I like to use a WW towel with IPA.

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If you want to, you can. I just don't trust anything that could be attaching to the paint while driving but I am super OCD. So it would be a wash or WW before I started.

 

As for the IPA wipedown after polishing, you can make your own choice. Like Chewy said, Waterless Wash is awesome to use at that stage as he mentioned. Everyone may have a different opinion on that. I like to use a WW towel with IPA.

 

Unfortunately my small Adams collection does not contain waterless wash :(.

 

Should I do full strength 70% IPA or dilute it with water? I think I have 70% at home, is there a certain point where you should dilute it with water, like if its >70-75% alcohol?

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If you really want perfection, do an IPA wipedown or a strip wash after polishing. It will expose what you missed - more importantly, it will expose what the Fine Machine Polish is covering up. Although it never gets mentioned on here, that stuff is super oily and covers up more imperfections than any glaze I have ever used. If you are satisfied with the paint LOOKING perfect, then just wipedown with WW and proceed to sealant. Just my $0.02.

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So true! As I mentioned before everyone has their own thoughts of "perfection" they want on their vehicles. To me absolute perfection is impossible to acheive, especially with black. I just like to set a goal instead of chasing that crazy level of perfection.

 

A wise Mook once stated (who was told by Adam) "Perfection is like trying to hit a moving target."

 

Now I've taken that comment to another level and like to say "Perfection is like trying to hit a moving target while riding a unicorn with the sun in your eyes!" :D

 

You can think of "perfection" however you wish since we all have our own levels of achieving it. Just remember.......Mastery is not in knowing all the tricks, grasshopper, but applying them wisely and well in the quest for your perfection. :jester:

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I wouldn't take back to the dealer they will just hack it up again. Most dealers details are just kids with no experience or little experience. When they get new cars they don't hand wash then they use a brush like at the self serve car wash.

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Another problem area I noticed is underneath the door handles, there's definitely some scratches there but I'm not sure how to attack these, any advice? I have the focus pads but I don't think they can get in there.

 

If you have the Focus pads give them a try by hand first. If they do not fit, order the Adam's Hex-Grip Hand Polish & Car Wax Applicator Trio.

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Hopefully VelosteRyan will chime in here as well... hes spent a lot of time working on his Hyundai and says the paint is softer than butter on a hot summer day. You may not need to go with SHR to get that out. If the paint is very soft FMP may be all thats needed.

 

Around the door handles I'd try polishing by hand... check out what a little revive can do:

 

BEFORE:

801a091e.jpg

 

REVIVE VIA BLUE HEX GRIP:

490f30ec.jpg

 

REMOVED WITH SINGLE SOFT:

9c518983.jpg

 

AFTER:

61acd23f.jpg

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I'm alive! Sorry folks I had duty this last week, and not much free time to myself. Ok, I have a lot to say about the Hyundai clear coat... But I'm not going to go there yet because I'll get long winded and angry. The clear coat on my Veloster is... well... lets just say it, garbage. EVERYTHING marrs this clear coat. I have found absolutely no way to keep the marring out of the finish on the Veloster. That being said, its not a genesis, and I have grown such a hatred for this car that I haven't researched whether or not the Veloster and Genesis are made in the same plant / use the same paints... I can show you the paint looks exactly the same (these were taken on delivery of the car, with plenty of factory installed swirls and scratches):

DSC_0030.jpg

DSC_0029.jpg

DSC_0028.jpg

 

So, we are basically on the same page.

 

I won't go into all the combinations I tried, but I came to the conclusion that FMP / Porter cable is all you need to remove the swirls and about 85% of the scratches from this clear coat. Anything heavier than that combo will either induce worse marring or just remove more clear coat than necessary. If you are using a flex turn the dial down to 1 or 2.

 

MSS is a good last step product because the less you touch this clear coat the better off you are. Invest in a Sidekick or Master Blaster to minimize the amount of towel drying you have to do, use waterless wash instead of detail spray as a drying agent as it has more lubricating agents than detail spray and will help reduce marring. I usually try to knock off most of the water with a Sidekick and pat dry my car unless its hot outside and I need to dry it quickly.

 

Even following these steps I have to give my car a once over with the porter cable and FMP every 3-6 months to remove the swirls. But following the above will help keep the swirls to a minimum.

 

Color looks great all polished up though :D

 

DSC_0072.jpg

 

DSC_0080.jpg

 

I've learned two things from my Hyundai experience, 1) I will never own another Veloster. 2) I will probably never own another black car unless its garage queen. Thanks for killin' black for me Hyundai. :lolsmack:

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All I can say is WELCOME TO OWNING BLACK Ryan... My G8 is no better... It's also a "you get what you pay for" situation which I know you know. To keep the price low on the G8 I think they went cheap on the paint quality.

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Oddly enough I am currently considering a G8 for the replacement of the Veloster. I'm considering a few cars, Used 2010 A6, or G8... or waiting until next year and getting new 2013 fusion, or caddy ATS... Decisions decisions, my wife is on board because she's knows I'm a car guy, and I've been nothing but depressed since we got the V. Thank God my wife understands me :D

 

Edit.. Oh yea, we're pregnant too so I "NEED" a bigger sedan :D

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Congratulations Ryan on the great news for the upcoming addition to your family. That's a lot of thinking to get the mind going...........New baby, New car. Practical car for new baby. New car to please car guy & to meet all mentioned needs! :help::willy::help:

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Thanks for the update Ryan and Dylan. Still haven't got around to doing this. But yes the clear coat does seem extremely soft :(. 3 months of owning the car and theres scratches under the door handles? Good god, I'd hate to see what would happen if a girl with long nails owned this car.:lurk:

 

It would appear that we have the same paint (and probably the same clear coat). I have the sparkles just like you :). Who knows if the formulation changed though.

 

I should add that I've actually been impressed by the quality besides the paint. For 30k I got a car with the same, if not more features/amenities as most 50k coupes, I couldn't be happier. This thing is a porn star on the road, people can't go past it without craning their necks a little :).

Edited by tscan
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