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MAYBEN

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What's y'all opinion on servicing your cars at the dealership?

 

I'm just about at 50K and am mounting new wheels/tires and will need an alignment as well.

 

Dealer just quoted me the following:

$80 Oil Change full synthetic (usually 5 quarts, I take 8.8 so most likely $100-110)

$140 Alignment

$188 Transmission Service

$140 Flush Brake Fluid

$160 Change Coolant

 

thats $700 +Tax

 

Thanks!

 

If time is the issue, then I personally would only take my cars to the dealership.  I always manage to find time however.  Sometimes it is late nights.  I steer clear of that one place that has been mentioned in this thread.  My wife was in upper management in a company and they had a national maintenance agreement with that place.  She took her company car in to have several things done.  Wiper blades, oil change, trans service, tire rotation, etc.  The only thing done was the oil and they tried to charge for all of it.  Yeah, I'am sure they all aren't that way, but I don't care to have some kid work on my vehicle either.

 

I looked and you can get your coolant premixed and it would cost about $35.  As opposed to $160.

 

Brake fluid around $25 or less.  Helped my brother do his not too long ago.

 

Not sure how many quarts on the trans drain and fill.  I have always done mine at 30k regardless of the 100K statements.  I figure at that point (100k) it is all dirty and broken down and your going to pay that inflated price to have it thoroughly flushed.  And I'am sure it is more than that $188 when that is involved.  That quoted price is probably just a drain and fill and filter replacement.  And isn't going to use much as far as volume.  I had a  1500 Silverado that only used 5-6 quarts when I did it.  Yes, I know that it held far more than that.  And it never really had a chance to get real dirty.  

 

Looks to me like a trans filter kit for your car is around $60.

 

Alignment your kinda stuck with that one because of the machine involved.

 

You have to decide what your comfortable with doing yourself if any of it.  And if you have a the right tools.  Can't imagine needing anything outside of a torque wrench for the stuff you listed.  And if you have the time.  I did the wife's Charger one night after work on a Friday not too long ago.  Maybe you don't have the time to do it all at once.  Maybe a couple hours here, an afternoon there.  Pretty soon it is all done and you have saved yourself some diaper money....lol.  

Edited by LFairbanks
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Get the trans flushed at 50k.  Especially if you're driving it more spiritedly than others on the road.  You're still under the 100k powertrain warranty so might as well get it done.  At least they can't come back for not maintaining proper maintenance on the car if anything should happen in the 50-100k mark.

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So, last night I went to put my wheels on and on the 4th one at the 5th lug, the darn stud snapped!

 

Dropped it off at the dealer in town this morning..  fixing the stud (set $180) and alignment ($140)..  

 

I asked about the tranny service, coolant and brake flushes, and they were higher than the dealer a town over.. on the flushes it was ~10 each more, not bad, but the tranny service was $100 more!  I asked how could they be so much cheaper and he said he didn't know.. I asked if he could match/come close, he said no as if I were a jerk for asking..

 

 

After today I am pulling my business from them, no compassion, no anything from them ever.. and they've messed up stuff before.. I've been very loyal and always the same service writer, never went the extra mile for me or anything..

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Thats ridiculous on the price of the stud. Selling you 5 when you needed only 1?  Sounds like they sold you the whole piece that the studs are attached to.

 

Somebody got busy with the impact last time your tires where rotated.  

 

I think I would have been hitting the local parts supply stores.

Edited by LFairbanks
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I wrote est (estimate) but autocorrect put set

 

 

The manager called me and offered me a better deal in some of the other services, so I did to make it easier on me since the car was already there..

 

Update on the stud: they damaged the wheel to get it off, although a buddy of mine warned me that would have to happen..

 

No clue what the estimate will go to now..

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Update on the stud: they damaged the wheel to get it off, although a buddy of mine warned me that would have to happen..

 

No clue what the estimate will go to now..

 

Awh man. Sorry to hear that. How on earth did they damage the wheel while replacing a wheel stud? I'm assuming they damaged the wheel when they were either taking it off or putting it on. Otheriwise, if they are typical studs, i.e. pressed into the hub, the wheel should have been no where near the stud while they replaced it. Sheesh. Sorry, Nick.

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They damaged the wheel using an air hammer to get the lug nut off..

 

today's update:  they called me and the estimate increased 500% (from ~180 to ~1000).. the service writer was very dry of course and said it is what it is.. I asked him to have the service manager call me.. a few hours later I received the call and discussed it with him and he too said it is what it is.. I said this does not seem right, how do you go from 180 to 1000?  and that was without the 'outside machine shop labor' since they dont have some of the tools needed.. he offered to put it back together and I could take it elsewhere if I was more comfortable and to call him back after I thought about it..

 

I called and left a voicemail, just heard back now.. I told him I'll take the car as is and go elsewhere..

 

WTF!!

 

I also called another dealer earlier today to give me an estimate, he said he'd check on parts and whatnot and call me back.. just got the call and he didn't get to parts department in time.. I asked for best case/worst case, he ball parked $200 to as high as $1000 since he didn't have part pricing..

 

seems like no matter what I am going to be paying out the arse..

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I was taking off the old wheels and the last lug nut/stud only spun..

 

Ahhh.....I must not have gotten enough caffeine today. My apologies for not picking up on that. So, the silver lining is that at least it's not one of your new wheels they damaged. I was really looking forward to seeing the new wheels on the car too.

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I'am guessing that it is part number 2 in the below link that you need.

 

http://www.gmpartsonline.net/parts/2009/PONTIAC/G8/GT/?siteid=215055&vehicleid=1442793&diagram=FR08295

The stud is easily replaceable itself. He shouldn't need an entire unit-bearing assembly. Once the wheel is off, remove the caliper and bracket, remove the rotor. Take the three bolts out that hold the unit-bearing to the spindle. Remove the unt bearing. Rotate the hub so the stud misses the mounting flange, tap it out, press in the new stud. Reinstall.

 

This really isn't rocket science but I don't know what those hacks are doing to his vehicle at this point.

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The stud is easily replaceable itself. He shouldn't need an entire unit-bearing assembly. Once the wheel is off, remove the caliper and bracket, remove the rotor. Take the three bolts out that hold the unit-bearing to the spindle. Remove the unt bearing. Rotate the hub so the stud misses the mounting flange, tap it out, press in the new stud. Reinstall.

 

This really isn't rocket science but I don't know what those hacks are doing to his vehicle at this point.

 

He mentioned that it just spins which tells me that the hole that the stud is pressed into is augered out.  And correct me if I'am wrong, can't even get the wheel off.  Which is why his wheel got damaged from the impact.  Yeah, he can probably find a stud that will work but then it may not match with the other bolts that he has.

Edited by LFairbanks
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wheel was damaged from the impact hammer to break the lug nut.. the wheel now comes off..

 

everything I've read shows the assembly has to be removed and if you remove the bearing, it needs to be replaced versus reused..

 

I get it back tomorrow and will be dropping it off Wed night/Thursday morning at another dealer.. can't drop it off sooner as the Wife's car is at the airport..

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Good luck Nick .. this sounds so typical of GM and their stealerships.

 

Im going trough hell trying to find a trust worthy dealer but since this idioits (GM) decided to cancel Pontiac I cannot find any dealer trustworthy..but again no GM delaer is trustworthy.

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He mentioned that it just spins which tells me that the hole that the stud is pressed into is augered out.  And correct me if I'am wrong, can't even get the wheel off.  Which is why his wheel got damaged from the impact.  Yeah, he can probably find a stud that will work but then it may not match with the other bolts that he has.

 

Yes and no. Yes, you are correct if the stud is spinning in the hub, a replacement hub would be required. This is very unlikely. When the stud is installed in the hub, i.e. pressed in, the splines of the stud create permanent ridges in the hub. It would take an extreme amount of pressure to strip those splines off the stud and/or move the stud rotationaly in hub. You would twist the stud off and/or strip the lug nut long before that stud would spin in the hub. It is more likely that the nut has stripped the threads off at the lower portion of the stud.

 

If the threads are stripped, you can spin that nut all day long at any speed you want with the impact gun and it's not going to catch a thread because you cannot apply outward force on the but to pull it toward the good threads, if there are any, at the same time you are using the impact gun. It is physically impossible. You can however attempt to do so by moving the gun off-axis in which case the socket comes in contact with the recess for the nut on the wheel and damaged occurs.

 

A wheel stud isn't vehicle specific. The dealership should have multiples on the shelf in the service dept. It's like any other bolt in the sense that it has a size, a thread pitch, a length, and a tensile strength. Matching it up would not be an issue.

 

wheel was damaged from the impact hammer to break the lug nut.. the wheel now comes off..

 

everything I've read shows the assembly has to be removed and if you remove the bearing, it needs to be replaced versus reused..

 

I get it back tomorrow and will be dropping it off Wed night/Thursday morning at another dealer.. can't drop it off sooner as the Wife's car is at the airport..

 

I'm sorry Nick, they are giving you the royal run around.

Edited by 02Xtreme07ss
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its the passenger side rear..

 

Since we're talking about the rear now, this is what it looks like.

 

FR08570.gif

 

Similar to replacing a front unit bearing, the hub can be removed from the housing and the wheel stud replaced.

 

Instructions for replacement of the bearing for reference (also would be the same as replacing, removing, re-installing the hub: http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20660

Edited by 02Xtreme07ss
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Yes and no. Yes, you are correct if the stud is spinning in the hub, a replacement hub would be required. This is very unlikely. When the stud is installed in the hub, i.e. pressed in, the splines of the stud create permanent ridges in the hub. It would take an extreme amount of pressure to strip those splines off the stud and/or move the stud rotationaly in hub. You would twist the stud off and/or strip the lug nut long before that stud would spin in the hub. It is more likely that the nut has stripped the threads off at the lower portion of the stud.

 

If the threads are stripped, you can spin that nut all day long at any speed you want with the impact gun and it's not going to catch a thread because you cannot apply outward force on the but to pull it toward the good threads, if there are any, at the same time you are using the impact gun. It is physically impossible. You can however attempt to do so by moving the gun off-axis in which case the socket comes in contact with the recess for the nut on the wheel and damaged occurs.

 

A wheel stud isn't vehicle specific. The dealership should have multiples on the shelf in the service dept. It's like any other bolt in the sense that it has a size, a thread pitch, a length, and a tensile strength. Matching it up would not be an issue.

 

 

I'm sorry Nick, they are giving you the royal run around.

 

There are a lot of different variables that are possible.  I can see what your saying, but that is just another possibility.  I'am perfectly aware of how a wheel stud works and is installed.  My comment in regards to the wheel stud not matching was in regards to the scenario of the hole being enlarged where the stud is pressed in.   The splined end would have to be larger to compensate for the larger hole.  That would more than likely change everything about the size of the stud.  There must be a reason why they can't just remove the one and reinstall a new stud.  Which was also my reason behind thinking that whole assembly needed to be replaced.  And I highly doubt it is about collecting more money.   

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