Claying Matte Paint, Clay turns the color of the paint?

[ADL]

I have a 1987 Mustang that has a factory two-tone paint scheme. The upper half of the car is white clearcoat and the lower half of the car is a single stage matt silver/gray finish Ford called "Titanium." I clayed the entire top half of the car (including windows) and it went perfect and easy. Decided to try a spot on the lower half and within a few strokes of the clay it turns gray like the color of the paint. Is that normal and should I continue? Should I leave it alone?

 

I am going to use Quick Sealant on the lower half and figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove any surface contaminants?

 

Here's the car for reference:

 

[jimboman]

Very nice Mustang.  I have a red 90 GT.

 

The clay may be pulling paint, I would skip the clay, as it may be very thin on the lower half.  Has the upper half been repainted?  I didn't think they put clear until the early 90's.

[GerryC]

Color transfer is common and normal when working with single stage paint. I've only worked with single stage gloss, though, not matte. I imagine you wouldn't clay or polish that, only wash.

[Beemer]

Claying matte paint is usually NOT recommended.

[Gen9Rolla]

Claying matte paint is usually NOT recommended.

I was going to say this too. You really aren't supposed to touch matte paint at all

[Audi X2]

BTW Dennis ...... Your car looks great and I really like the color combination.

[ADL]

Thanks for the responses. I skipped claying the lower half. Did a very light pass with Revive because the titanium has a tendency to blush here and there so the light polish evened it out nicely. Sealed it with Liquid Paint Sealant because the titanium is also pretty fragile. Very happy with the results.

 

Very nice Mustang.  I have a red 90 GT.

 

The clay may be pulling paint, I would skip the clay, as it may be very thin on the lower half.  Has the upper half been repainted?  I didn't think they put clear until the early 90's.

 

Thanks! The car is 100% factory original paint (and everything else for that matter.) I was under the impression it was a two-stage. I used Revive and the blue hex applicator and there was no white color transfer. When I did lightly polish the lower half the face of the applicator turned gray. I always thought with a single stage there would be color transfer to some degree?

[Kingsford]

DON'T CLAY MATTE PAINT!

 

Matte Paint is mainly don'ts! Never clay, never wax, never polish, never wash in the sun. I would even recommend washing with just WW.

[Kingsford]

Justin@SwanCreek said

Flat matte paint is all together a separate beast within itself when compared to a single or two stage paint job. 

Why do I say this? Because their is no margin for error when dealing with flat matte paint. They tend to be temperamental with detailing products, and the use of any waxes, polishes, or polymers will send you to a paint shop right away. 

So let me start out with the don'ts:
- don't wash in the sun!!!
- don't clay bar
- don't wax or glaze
- don't polish by hand or machine, no matter what the cut is (this includes revive) 
- don't wipe down with any type of quick detailing spray
- don't use cheap micro fiber towels 

The reason why you do not want to use any of these steps or products on a flat matte paint, is because it will add a slight luster to the finish. This luster will ruin the flat mattes appearance, and the end results will send you to a paint shop for correction (new paint). Also, cheap micro fiber towels can scratch the finish... And as I have previously stated, you never use hand or machine polishing on flat matte paints. Therefore if you do scratch the finish with a cheap micro fiber towel, you will be in need of a reprint. 

Now let me move onto the do's:
- when you wash the flat matte paint, ensure the vehicle is cool to the touch and that you are in a completely shaded area.
- do use waterless wash for wipe downs 

The reason why you want to be in a completely shaded area and have the paint cool to the touch, is to prevent any risk of hard water spots. I recommend having your water tested to ensure you do not have hard water before completing a wash. Hard water and flat matte paint does not mix well! Once you have hard water spots on a flat matte paint, the options for correction are extremely limited. Note: make sure you move quick while washing, and dry immediately! 

So what do you do if you get hard water spots? Take action quick, use some of Adams glass cleaner with a single soft towel and gently wipe down the effected areas. Refrain from using any type of polishes! 

And when it come to scratches on flat matte paint, you are limited to only one option... Repaint. 

I personally own a flat black motorcycle, and when I have to clean it... I only use waterless wash. I never let it get to the point where I need to take a hose to it. The reason for this, is because I do not want to risk hard water spots (as I have hard water). 

If you have any questions, or if I have missed anything feel free to ask! 

Thanks, 
Justin

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/23243-harley-screamin-eagle-write-up/

 

Some tips from my experiences in doing Matte/Flat Paint.

[jimboman]

 

 

 

Thanks! The car is 100% factory original paint (and everything else for that matter.) I was under the impression it was a two-stage. I used Revive and the blue hex applicator and there was no white color transfer. When I did lightly polish the lower half the face of the applicator turned gray. I always thought with a single stage there would be color transfer to some degree?

 

 

 

 

There may have been some certain colors that were cleared.  I'd have to look in that Mustang book that has all the info

[ADL]

I appreciate the insights, guys. I think I may have been describing the finish incorrectly though. It's not ultra flat from the factory, it does have a sheen to it, just not a high gloss like the top half. At any rate, the light polishing and sealant didn't do it any harm. In fact, it looks much better. I do think it should NOT be clayed, though.

 

[jimboman]

Here is mine. 

 

[ADL]

Very nice - and shiney! I always liked chrome Pony wheels on a red car and it's good to see another guy still rockin' the original taillights. How many miles are on the odometer?

[jimboman]

About 135K.  I've had it for about 9 years.  Completely stock- except a Borla cat back and the Hose Wizzard AC conversion kit. I don't drive it too much.  I wouldn't get rid of the cheese graters for anything!!

[ADL]

Nice, don't hear of too many guys using Borla exhaust on these older cars. Everyone goes right for Flowmaster's. 

 

My car has 65,000 miles on it. Did a basic suspension using H&R springs, Koni struts/shocks and some Maximum Motorsports stuff, basic 5-lug conversion and the original Cobra R wheels. Engine and driveline is completely stock (auto/3.27 gears) except for a Dynomax cat-back. Don't have plans for any further modifications. When people ask me if I am going to put LX taillights I tell them it's not 1995 anymore. 

[jimboman]

 

I had Dynomax tailpipes before the Borla cat back, the drivers tailpipe fit and looked great, but I couldn't get the passenger side to fit or look right for anything.  Unfortunately, you cannot see the Borla tailpipes out the back, which really chaps my hide.  I am planning on doing something with them though.

 

Here are my Dynomax tailpipes and intermediate pipes with some other Borla mufflers

 

 

 

And here is the actual Borla catback kit I upgraded to.

 

Edited April 16, 2014 by jimboman