Waterless Wash ?

[Cork]

If your a waterless wash user, how much are product are you using?  I recently purchased a 32oz bottle of waterless wash.  I like the product a lot.  It cleaned well and left a nice slick finish.  I've used rinse less wash for many years (before Adams) and sometimes use diluted rinse less as waterless wash.  I prefer the waterless wash to the diluted rinse less however, I used a lot of product (at least 12 ounces) to clean a moderately dirty minivan.   I plan to continue using waterless but probably only for car shows and traveling as it seems rather cost prohibitive to use regularly.

[Ls1transam]

I used 16oz on my car once. It was dirty, it had been rained on and just been sitting out. Then I used the Waterless Wash just this week and I didn't use any hardly at all. However, last Sunday I did a strip wash, clay, strip and then applied LPS. So it had been sitting out for a couple days. Tree sap or something had gotten all over it. And there was a light coating of dust. 1-2 sprays per panel at that was all I needed. Just depends on how dirty it is. There is a line there, Waterless or the 2 bucket method.

[northland5]

Thanks for the information. You performed a second strip wash to clean after clay?

 

Because of current outside temperatures If I don't use waterless or rinseless in the garage I have to run the truck through the corporate car wash and I've been told that the beater-bars remove wax and can do damage to paint if the guy/gal ahead of you had a nasty car. Next time I go through I intend to clay and apply LPS as well. Is the H20 Guard a good follow-up after performing a waterless wash if you have LPS on the paint? 

Edited November 18, 2016 by northland5

[Ls1transam]

Thanks for the information. You performed a second strip wash to clean after clay?

 

Because of current outside temperatures If I don't use waterless or rinseless in the garage I have to run the truck through the corporate car wash and I've been told that the beater-bars remove wax and can do damage to paint if the guy/gal ahead of you had a nasty car. Next time I go through I intend to clay and apply LPS as well. Is the H20 Guard a good follow-up after performing a waterless wash if you have LPS on the paint?

I did a second strip wash because I used detail spray as the the lubricant for the clay bar. The detail spray has carnuaba in it. So the second strip was to remove that so the LPS had a clean and naked surface to bond to. I use H20 GG about every 2-3 washes. It gives the paint a nice shiny look and adds some longevity to the LPS.

[northland5]

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to have to get better at using water to wash cars in the garage. With that in mind how long do you go between LPS applications?

[Ls1transam]

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to have to get better at using water to wash cars in the garage. With that in mind how long do you go between LPS applications?

That's kind of hard to say. It lasts up to 6 months. But, it all depends on where you live, do park your vehicles in a garage or do they stay outside? Is it a daily driver or a weekend vehicle?? All these factors determine how long it will last. I'd say a good tip would be apply it every 4 months or so if your vehicle isn't garaged. That's just my personal opinion, others may not agree. I applied LPS on a fender and I got about 4 months out of it. However, that is before I started maintining it with H20GG every 2-3 washes. I'd say now I'd get that full 6 months and my cars stay outside all the time.

[northland5]

Dude I really appreciate the information. I park inside and so far have kept up with cleaning the paint every three or four days using waterless wash and then follow-up with ADS. I have LPS waiting to go. I clayed my wife's car using Adam's clay bar and detail spray. The effect was immediate. I follow-up up with a DA polish and a non-Adams Synthetic wax. Question - When I did the DA polish and did not strip wash what effect does that have on the paint? Also curious if you ever apply anything over LPS? Thanks again.

[Ls1transam]

Dude I really appreciate the information. I park inside and so far have kept up with cleaning the paint every three or four days using waterless wash and then follow-up with ADS. I have LPS waiting to go. I clayed my wife's car using Adam's clay bar and detail spray. The effect was immediate. I follow-up up with a DA polish and a non-Adams Synthetic wax. Question - When I did the DA polish and did not strip wash what effect does that have on the paint? Also curious if you ever apply anything over LPS? Thanks again.

DA? Are you meaning Dual action Polisher, like you polished the pain after claying with a machine? I use H20GG Over it after 2-3 washes. Or on another one of my cars, I waited an hour after applying and the LPS and thebtopped it off with Brilliant Glaze and the Buttery Wax. The depth and shine was crazy!

[Dwhite0960]

This is a question regarding other's referencing "pre-soak" in this thread.

 

What is the composition on pre-soak? I have a fresh gallon of Waterless wash that I've used straight for cleaning my truck after a few days of driving. It's winter here so there's a mix of melted snow and dust on the paint that I want to clean. Pre-soak sounds like a good method to loosen up that combination of waterspotting and dirt/dust. Thanks.

Hey John, I personally use a 1 gallon garden pump sprayer with diluted rinseless as my pre soak solution. I will spray the panel and let it dwell 30 seconds to a min then continue with my rinseless wash. If the truck is nasty I would run it through a touchkess wash before you perform a rinseless wash. You are correct the car washes with beater bars are horrific for your paint.

[northland5]

Ls1transam - Dual Action polish after I clayed the car. I did not strip before or after clay and I'm curious to know what effect this has on polishing the paint when there is residual carnuaba on the surface. I total see the need to strip to get good surface bonding of the LPS but what effect does polishing have on paint when it's working against the detail spray? Based on your application of glaze and buttery wax it's not overkill on top of LPS I take it?

 

Dwhite0960 - Thanks for the tip on the sprayer. Unfortunately there is no touchless wash here so I'm stuck with rinseless wash techniques and finding a place to get setup to was indoors. What is your dilution ration for the sprayer?

[Ls1transam]

Ls1transam - Dual Action polish after I clayed the car. I did not strip before or after clay and I'm curious to know what effect this has on polishing the paint when there is residual carnuaba on the surface. I total see the need to strip to get good surface bonding of the LPS but what effect does polishing have on paint when it's working against the detail spray? Based on your application of glaze and buttery wax it's not overkill on top of LPS I take it?

 

Dwhite0960 - Thanks for the tip on the sprayer. Unfortunately there is no touchless wash here so I'm stuck with rinseless wash techniques and finding a place to get setup to was indoors. What is your dilution ration for the sprayer?

It doesn't really have any effects on the paint. It just may hinder your polishing results a little. Because the pad is basically removing any wax/carnauba that is in the surface. It just clogs the pad up a little. But if it's only detail spray on there I don't see a huge problem with it.. adding the glaze and Buttery isn't really overkill i don't think. It makes the car look great. The Brilliant Glaze and Buttery Wax don't kastvthat long anyway. So I something reapply the glaze and Buttery before a car show or if I'm taking the car out on a sunny day. They don't build up like other waxes.

[Dwhite0960]

Ls1transam - Dual Action polish after I clayed the car. I did not strip before or after clay and I'm curious to know what effect this has on polishing the paint when there is residual carnuaba on the surface. I total see the need to strip to get good surface bonding of the LPS but what effect does polishing have on paint when it's working against the detail spray? Based on your application of glaze and buttery wax it's not overkill on top of LPS I take it?

 

Dwhite0960 - Thanks for the tip on the sprayer. Unfortunately there is no touchless wash here so I'm stuck with rinseless wash techniques and finding a place to get setup to was indoors. What is your dilution ration for the sprayer?

I honestly just eyeball it no particular science lol. I would say around 2 oz per gallon of distilled water is a pretty close mark though, I call this 2 squirts from the bottle lol

[TheWolf]

 If the truck is nasty I would run it through a touchkess wash before you perform a rinseless wash.

 

Skip the touchless wash.  They use harsh chemicals to attempt to clean the car without touching it, and these chemicals will degrade or strip off any sealant or wax on your paint.  With a strong sealant, it might take a few times, with a wax, it could be gone in one trip through.  The harsh chemicals are also bad for the plastic and rubber trim, will bleach them out over time.

 

You're better off using the self-service bay to blast off the crud, but only use the "Rinse" setting to avoid any of the harsh chemicals.

[LT1xL82]

Skip the touchless wash.  They use harsh chemicals to attempt to clean the car without touching it, and these chemicals will degrade or strip off any sealant or wax on your paint.  With a strong sealant, it might take a few times, with a wax, it could be gone in one trip through.  The harsh chemicals are also bad for the plastic and rubber trim, will bleach them out over time.

 

You're better off using the self-service bay to blast off the crud, but only use the "Rinse" setting to avoid any of the harsh chemicals.

 Absolutely, totally agree!

[northland5]

I honestly just eyeball it no particular science lol. I would say around 2 oz per gallon of distilled water is a pretty close mark though, I call this 2 squirts from the bottle lol

 

I can handle that. The sprayer is great advice for my application. Thanks again. I have a philosophical question ;| If the car is dirty - not caked with mud and dirt but not a light sprinkling of dust either - Is it better to bite the bullet and take her to the beater-bar wash and correct the paint in the spring or use the rinseless/waterless techniques I see listed in this thread?

 

Given my limited options for winter washing I'm not going to skimp on using enough rinseless solution and microfibers to cheat the process but on the other hand I know the car wash folks rinse the cars down before washing them and they perform well enough for the general public that their cars don't come out a scraped up mess. Just wondering if consensus is to avoid automated car washes in general or, given my particular situation, to use them sparingly in combination with rinseless techniques? Apologies for the long post.

[TheWolf]

I can handle that. The sprayer is great advice for my application. Thanks again. I have a philosophical question ;| If the car is dirty - not caked with mud and dirt but not a light sprinkling of dust either - Is it better to bite the bullet and take her to the beater-bar wash and correct the paint in the spring or use the rinseless/waterless techniques I see listed in this thread?

 

Given my limited options for winter washing I'm not going to skimp on using enough rinseless solution and microfibers to cheat the process but on the other hand I know the car wash folks rinse the cars down before washing them and they perform well enough for the general public that their cars don't come out a scraped up mess. Just wondering if consensus is to avoid automated car washes in general or, given my particular situation, to use them sparingly in combination with rinseless techniques? Apologies for the long post.

 

Avoid the automatic car washes.  Period.

 

It is much, much better to use the Waterless Wash and Rinseless Washing techniques discussed in this thread and shown on the videos.

 

The automatic car washes are bad for more than just your paint, they can also scratch or otherwise damage plastic and rubber trim, even scratch the glass if the spinning brushes or octopus legs have embedded dirt or gravel in them.  I have also seen trim pulled off.

 

I guy from work who used an automatic car wash on his company car 1-2 times a week told me that one time, a truck went through before him, and that guy had a fishing pole in the bed, which ended up tangled up in the spinning brush, and it destroyed the clear coat on one side of his car.

[Dwhite0960]

I would avoid the typical car wash at all costs. If you must like I said the touchless is the better of the 2 options but still as Adan stated has its own issues. I typically spray mine off with a hot water pressure washer, not sure if you have any around you that are avalible. It costs me .50 cents and then I drive her home and use my usual rinseless wash. So there are options for some folks but others might not have the same just tossing ideas out for you.

[northland5]

Avoid the automatic car washes.  Period.

 

 

I would avoid the typical car wash at all costs.

 

 

I will no longer frequent such establishments :-) and I appreciate the advice. I have a gallon of waterless wash and I'll purchase a gallon or two of rinseless soon. This is a binary environment - winter is dark and frozen and only the rarest of residents have garages that can accommodate indoor washing. Once winter breaks it's like a switch gets thrown and everyone goes to the spray wash at once to get 6 months worth of snow, dirt, and grime of their cars and trucks.  I want to have clean and detailed cars in the winter and it's now obvious that waterless wash techniques will become a very honed skill to have. Is the Adam's blue waffle weave the preferred microfiber to have for this type of work for initial material removal? 

[TheWolf]

Is the Adam's blue waffle weave the preferred microfiber to have for this type of work for initial material removal? 

 

Yes, the blue waffle weave towel for Waterless, and then plush microfiber for RInseless Washing.  Plush towel selection varies by personal preference; Single Soft or Double, or the Borderless.

[northland5]

Yes, the blue waffle weave towel for Waterless, and then plush microfiber for RInseless Washing.  Plush towel selection varies by personal preference; Single Soft or Double, or the Borderless.

What does a Borderless towel do for you? A little more surface area or just style? Is Rinseless concentrated Waterless or are they different formulas? Thanks you for the help.

Edited November 20, 2016 by northland5

[stripesace]

What does a Borderless towel do for you? A little more surface area or just style? Is Rinseless concentrated Waterless or are they different formulas? Thanks you for the help.

 

 

Its just a preference. I use a 700GSM towels for Rinseless with a longer nap similar to the Double Soft. I'm in the process of swapping my towel inventory out though.

 

The rinseless and waterless formula's are different forumla for their specific tasks. Both have gloss enhancers in them. 

[northland5]

The rinseless and waterless formula's are different forumla for their specific tasks. Both have gloss enhancers in them. 

 

formula for specific tasks - waterless as a "spray and wipe" and rinseless as a variation of the two bucket method minus the hose? That's my takeaway from the videos but I'm learning there's more than one approach to this. Also gloss enhancers being carnauba? Every so often can you wax coat on top of the rinseless or waterless or do the enhancers do a sufficient job if you clean with them every 3 to 4 days? Thank you for the information.

Edited November 20, 2016 by northland5

[stripesace]

formula for specific tasks - waterless as a "spray and wipe" and rinseless as a variation of the two bucket method minus the hose? That's my takeaway from the videos but I'm learning there's more than one approach to this. Also gloss enhancers being carnauba? Every so often can you wax coat on top of the rinseless or waterless or do the enhancers do a sufficient job if you clean with them every 3 to 4 days? Thank you for the information.

 

 

Rinseless can even be done with one bucket, and SEVERAL towels, never re-introducing a dirty towel to your solution. This is my preferred rinseless wash process. This method was made popular by a detailer in Florida. Search youtube "Garry Dean Wash Method" for more information.  There's also a Rinseless wash video on the youtube channel that describes this process well. 

 

I know the Rinseless has a wax addidtive in it, but all I know is whats been said in videos about the new waterless wash having "gloss enhancers" not sure if they're wax based or not.

I will say the last time I did a rinseless on my car, it had a nice freshly waxed pop to it.

 

[Dwhite0960]

The rinseless wash definitely leaves a nice shine behind. No worries you can wax over it with no issues as I do once a month. Adams has a video on rinseless washing as well. Use more towels than you think you need to and after a few washes you will cooking right along without issues. I keep a empty bucket for my dirty towels as I never reintroduce them to solution during the wash

[LT1xL82]

...never re-introducing a dirty towel to your solution... "Garry Dean Wash Method" for more information.

 

1000X

[northland5]

Material Acquired - Rinseless wash, double soft towels etc. That said it's cold (-25F) right now and my cars stay clean due to super dry air and lack of precipitation. There is fallout from diesel exhaust, wood ash, etc. but a quick waterless wash cycle takes care of it. 

 

If I can't apply paint sealant due to conditions and no strip washing cycle - Is my best option through the rest of the winter to keep up with the rinseless/waterless washing, apply some H20GG, and wax once a month? Are there any potential issues layering these materials on without stripping down to start over with a full decontamination?

 

Thanks everyone.