My Winter Prep

[BRC]

All, please give me some feedback on the process I was going to follow tomorrow for my winter preparation. I'm in DC, so nothing too severe, but I still want to be prepared. Please note, I have all of the accessories appropriately used with each product listed below.

 

1) I cleaned the windows and applied Glass Sealant today. Interior was also done today, so I could save more time for tomorrow.

2) Clean wheels with Wheel Cleaner to get the wheels completely ready for LPS later on.

3) Clean tires with Tire and Rubber Cleaner.

4) Initial two bucket wash with Car Shampoo.

5) Clay the car with Detailer as lubricant.

6) Rewash with Car Shampoo. Is this necessary? If not, do I just hose the car down after claying?

7) Apply LPS to the entire car - allowing it to dry on each panel, and then removing in the same order it was applied.

8) Apply Guard and Gloss an hour later.

9) Follow Guard and Gloss with Brilliant Glaze.

 

Does that work? I'll be skipping paint protection - not necessary. I've attached the new whip here for the before photo!

 

Thank you,

 

Brad

 

[shane@detailedreflections]

So a couple of things...and keep in mind this is just how I do it. Not that it has to be done that way.

 

1. Glass - it's usually the last thing I do. Almost like a finishing touch. I find that doing it anywhere else in the process almost guarantees I'll do it again at the end.

 

2. Wheels - Cleaning them is usually the first thing I do. I do it this way since they tend to make a bit of a mess and I don't want it getting everywhere I've already cleaned. Dressing them and sealing them is closer to the end.

 

5. You can use diluted rinseless wash to save some funds. It's cheaper than detail spray since it's a concentrate and then you won't be "sparing" when you use it. The secret to good clay work is clean clay and a lot of lube.

 

6. Skip the wash. You'll buff it all off when you remove the sealant. To guarantee it's easy, add the glaze now and buff.

 

7. Apply your LPS and buff off. Make sure you let it sit for at least an hour to cure before layering.

 

8. If you're using LPS, I'd skip the Guard & Gloss. The guard is a sealant, which you've already applied.

 

9. Like I said, you can consider glaze before sealing. Or you can seal and apply the glaze an hour later. I've done both and they both provide good results. My last step product is usually a wax on top of it all to encase all the layers. Your choice of Buttery, Americana or Patriot. I choose my wax based on the vehicle I'm doing and what the person I'm doing it for (or myself) want. My garage queen gets Patriot while my daily drivers get Americana. Buttery is in a pinch since it's so quick and easy to apply. The choice is yours.

 

I'll also add that if it's new, I'd consider decontaminating the paint with deep wheel cleaner. It'll remove any rail dust from the clear coat and make claying easier. You can use Deep Wheel Cleaner mixed 1:1 with distilled water to save product. Or go straight up. Spray it on. Agitate with a wash sponge. Rinse off. Do this BEFORE clay.

 

Congrats on the new car! Take after pics too!

[CMDChase]

Skip step 6. It's not necessary. Also I apply brilliant glaze and then top it off with a wax. It allows the brilliant glaze to last longer.

[BRC]

So a couple of things...and keep in mind this is just how I do it. Not that it has to be done that way.

 

1. Glass - it's usually the last thing I do. Almost like a finishing touch. I find that doing it anywhere else in the process almost guarantees I'll do it again at the end.

 

2. Wheels - Cleaning them is usually the first thing I do. I do it this way since they tend to make a bit of a mess and I don't want it getting everywhere I've already cleaned. Dressing them and sealing them is closer to the end.

 

5. You can use diluted rinseless wash to save some funds. It's cheaper than detail spray since it's a concentrate and then you won't be "sparing" when you use it. The secret to good clay work is clean clay and a lot of lube.

 

6. Skip the wash. You'll buff it all off when you remove the sealant. To guarantee it's easy, add the glaze now and buff.

 

7. Apply your LPS and buff off. Make sure you let it sit for at least an hour to cure before layering.

 

8. If you're using LPS, I'd skip the Guard & Gloss. The guard is a sealant, which you've already applied.

 

9. Like I said, you can consider glaze before sealing. Or you can seal and apply the glaze an hour later. I've done both and they both provide good results. My last step product is usually a wax on top of it all to encase all the layers. Your choice of Buttery, Americana or Patriot. I choose my wax based on the vehicle I'm doing and what the person I'm doing it for (or myself) want. My garage queen gets Patriot while my daily drivers get Americana. Buttery is in a pinch since it's so quick and easy to apply. The choice is yours.

 

I'll also add that if it's new, I'd consider decontaminating the paint with deep wheel cleaner. It'll remove any rail dust from the clear coat and make claying easier. You can use Deep Wheel Cleaner mixed 1:1 with distilled water to save product. Or go straight up. Spray it on. Agitate with a wash sponge. Rinse off. Do this BEFORE clay.

 

Congrats on the new car! Take after pics too!

 

Thanks a ton, Shane. To comment back:

 

1) Agreed. I was trying to split up the work, and typically it would make sense to do this last, or even the next day - if I was trying to save time. I live in an apartment in DC, so I only get so much time in someone's drive way. It's not my fault I can't afford a house - I want to spend all my money on detailing products from Adam!

 

2) Yup, I plan on this. Doing the wheels first, but the tire shine and sealant will be put on at the end. I'm concerned about my satin wheels and the LPS, but I'll give it a test and see.

 

5) Good tip - I only have Waterless Wash right now - I use it throughout the week, since I park in a garage. Can I use that instead? If so, do I need to dilute it?

 

6) So immediately after using the clay, apply the glaze and wipe it down like I typically would? I assumed I put it on last for the best shine, but I'll take your advice.

 

8) Got it - Will save on G&G and apply it every other week throughout the winter. 

 

9) For wax, I only have Americana at this point - seems like a good idea to apply on this round. I was going to pick up Buttery for summer.

 

I'n going to take that advice with the wheel cleaner. Do I apply while the vehicle is wet after the two bucket wash, or dry the car after the two bucket wash and then apply?

 

Thanks a TON for the feedback. It's going to be a long day, but I'm excited!

[BRC]

Skip step 6. It's not necessary. Also I apply brilliant glaze and then top it off with a wax. It allows the brilliant glaze to last longer.

 

 

Thanks - I'm going to do that. Sounds like you and Shane both recommend this. That's good enough for me! Thanks, Ed. Have a great weekend.

[shane@detailedreflections]

I can understand the short amount of time in someone's driveway. But the glass can be done any time and place. So save it so you can make the most of the time in a driveway. The addiction is strong with Adams. They make great stuff and the results keep you coming back for more.

 

The LPS on Satin should be fine. I don't use the LPS on my wheels these days though. I use the Guard & Gloss on them. With the spray it's easier to get a full application. Spray the wheels with the product. Wipe with a wet microfiber. Buff clean with a dry microfiber. Enjoy sealed wheels without the struggle of a thicker product.

 

I honestly haven't used the waterless as a lube for clay. I'm not sure it's slippery enough. I commonly use it to clean in door jambs and other areas I don't want a bunch of water.

 

The process for the glaze is exactly right. The glaze is a relatively short lasting product compared to sealants and waxes. It's a product that offers no protection and is purely for esthetics. By locking it in with a wax, you get a little longer out of the product. You can then reapply as often as you'd like to restore the deep, wet look.

 

The Guard & Gloss will be a great maintenance product for your vehicle. Toss some glaze in from time to time to really make it pop.

 

If you have Americana, you're good to go. It's a great wax. If you're not doing vehicles for other people, save the money on the Buttery. The only time I find I go to it is for someone else that I'm doing quickly. And even that now may be replaced by the Wash and Wax product. The Buttery goes on easy enough. But so does Americana and it holds up a little better in my experience.

 

I apply the DWC while the vehicle is wet after being washed. Let it sit a few minutes and agitate it with a dedicated sponge. The product may turn purple as it dissolves and reacts with any iron in your finish. Then after about ten minutes, rinse it off with a hose. There really is no reason for you to dry the car with your process. You'll wash and decon, then clay and glaze...at that point any residue or water will be removed. I use a blower to blow out all the trim and wheel lugs. But you may or may not have that option. So use a drying towel to catch any heavy spots when you're done.

 

Feel free to ask more questions if you have them.

[BRC]

I can understand the short amount of time in someone's driveway. But the glass can be done any time and place. So save it so you can make the most of the time in a driveway. The addiction is strong with Adams. They make great stuff and the results keep you coming back for more.

 

The LPS on Satin should be fine. I don't use the LPS on my wheels these days though. I use the Guard & Gloss on them. With the spray it's easier to get a full application. Spray the wheels with the product. Wipe with a wet microfiber. Buff clean with a dry microfiber. Enjoy sealed wheels without the struggle of a thicker product.

 

I honestly haven't used the waterless as a lube for clay. I'm not sure it's slippery enough. I commonly use it to clean in door jambs and other areas I don't want a bunch of water.

 

The process for the glaze is exactly right. The glaze is a relatively short lasting product compared to sealants and waxes. It's a product that offers no protection and is purely for esthetics. By locking it in with a wax, you get a little longer out of the product. You can then reapply as often as you'd like to restore the deep, wet look.

 

The Guard & Gloss will be a great maintenance product for your vehicle. Toss some glaze in from time to time to really make it pop.

 

If you have Americana, you're good to go. It's a great wax. If you're not doing vehicles for other people, save the money on the Buttery. The only time I find I go to it is for someone else that I'm doing quickly. And even that now may be replaced by the Wash and Wax product. The Buttery goes on easy enough. But so does Americana and it holds up a little better in my experience.

 

I apply the DWC while the vehicle is wet after being washed. Let it sit a few minutes and agitate it with a dedicated sponge. The product may turn purple as it dissolves and reacts with any iron in your finish. Then after about ten minutes, rinse it off with a hose. There really is no reason for you to dry the car with your process. You'll wash and decon, then clay and glaze...at that point any residue or water will be removed. I use a blower to blow out all the trim and wheel lugs. But you may or may not have that option. So use a drying towel to catch any heavy spots when you're done.

 

Feel free to ask more questions if you have them.

 

 

Perfect! Thank you so much for the response. I can't wait to wake up and get this done. Taking my dog to the dog park, then detailing my car - perfect Saturday! I'll have after pics taken!

[Rich]

If you have leather interior be sure to treat your surfaces well.  The cold can dry out the fabrics just as easily as the heat does.  

[Thorsager]

Good looking Jeep!

[BRC]

If you have leather interior be sure to treat your surfaces well.  The cold can dry out the fabrics just as easily as the heat does.  

 

Thanks, Rich. Yes, I do have leather interior. I've got interior detailer I've been using, but I still need to pick up the Leather Conditioner. 

[BRC]

Good looking Jeep!

 

Thanks! Super fun to drive!

[TheWolf]

I would recommend a quick wash after claying.

 

Check out this post for why I think it is important:

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27009-adamized-the-raptor/?p=462022

[shane@detailedreflections]

I would recommend a quick wash after claying.

 

Check out this post for why I think it is important:

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27009-adamized-the-raptor/?p=462022

You share some good thoughts and some things I hadn't considered in my own process as I detail. It provides good food for thought moving forward. A quick wash down and dry wouldn't hurt and with MBR wouldn't add huge time to the job.

 

And thanks for providing consistent good information here. I'm hoping one day I be as much of a wealth of knowledge as you are. Seems there's always so much to learn.

 

By the way, awesome truck. I miss mine. Traded it for the Lotus since my time riding motorcycles came to an end. I enjoyed every mile I drove in that truck though.

[TheWolf]

You share some good thoughts and some things I hadn't considered in my own process as I detail. It provides good food for thought moving forward. A quick wash down and dry wouldn't hurt and with MBR wouldn't add huge time to the job.

 

And thanks for providing consistent good information here. I'm hoping one day I be as much of a wealth of knowledge as you are. Seems there's always so much to learn.

 

By the way, awesome truck. I miss mine. Traded it for the Lotus since my time riding motorcycles came to an end. I enjoyed every mile I drove in that truck though.

 

Yes, there's always more to learn, and certainly more than one way to do some things.

 

Some guys that detail a lot of cars, or detail for dollars, might skip some of the steps that I do, but I am a big believer that using good technique and spending a little extra time on a couple more steps is the best way to keep your paint in the best condition possible.

 

If someone might find that they are having to do paint corrections on their cars twice a year, then I would suggest that better technique and processes might be used.  I last corrected my paint about 1.5 years ago, and it still looks fantastic.

[BRC]

Thanks to everyone who opined on my detail structure. All done, and I feel GREAT about it!

 

I went through the steps we discussed last night, and I really like the results. Unfortunately, I didn't see Dan's post until now, so in the future, I'll wash after the clay.

 

Sorry I can't get better photo quality, but I tried to add what I could. 

 

Thanks again for the help, everyone. You guys gave me great feedback and I'm excited to show off the car!

[BRC]

Yes, there's always more to learn, and certainly more than one way to do some things.

 

Some guys that detail a lot of cars, or detail for dollars, might skip some of the steps that I do, but I am a big believer that using good technique and spending a little extra time on a couple more steps is the best way to keep your paint in the best condition possible.

 

If someone might find that they are having to do paint corrections on their cars twice a year, then I would suggest that better technique and processes might be used.  I last corrected my paint about 1.5 years ago, and it still looks fantastic.

 

Looking forward to reading more about your detailing on the Raptor. Great looking truck!

[shane@detailedreflections]

Congrats on your hard work. Looks great. Keep it maintained and it'll last a long time.

[BRC]

Congrats on your hard work. Looks great. Keep it maintained and it'll last a long time.

 

 

Thanks, Shane. Pictures just don't do it justice - these products are great. Also, I couldn't find the answer to this on the acronym's page. What does WTU stand for?

[TheWolf]

Nice job Brad!  The Jeep is gleaming!

[BRC]

Nice job Brad!  The Jeep is gleaming!

 

Thanks, Dan. Been going through your detailing methods all night - intimidating! Anything worth doing is worth doing in excess!