Polish for a new car

[rseward]

I have a question about polishing a new car.... 

 

I want to apply some paint protection (sealer) to a new car. It's about 3 weeks old now, but by the time I get around to doing the job (need to acquire some tools and chemicals), it may be a couple of months old. I'm also going to install some body side molding prior.

 

To my untrained eye, the condition of the factory paint looks close to perfect (maybe a couple of very light scratches in the clear coat here and there).

 

The plan is to strip wash, then clay and strip wash again to remove any traces of lubricant before installing the body side molding, and after that polish (maybe) and seal.

 

My question is, what polish should I use... "One Step Polish", "Finishing Polish", or two stages to include "Correcting Polish" then "Finishing Polish"?  Or does the vehicle even need to be polished at all before putting down a sealer? Considering it's still new and close to perfect. 

 

[shane@detailedreflections]

Least to most aggressive. New car prep for us is usually a finishing polish to level the paint. It may look perfect, but it’ll have more pop after a finishing polish without taking much clearcoat off. Finishing polish, sealant and your last step product is how I’d go. 

[rseward]

42 minutes ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

Least to most aggressive. New car prep for us is usually a finishing polish to level the paint. It may look perfect, but it’ll have more pop after a finishing polish without taking much clearcoat off. Finishing polish, sealant and your last step product is how I’d go. 

 

Thanks... That kind of what I was leaning towards.

 

Anyone have any experience with "Revive Hand Polish" (it has great reviews). Wondering if that's a good option? It would allow me to get it done a little sooner, since I wouldn't have to invest in tools, and could just apply both the polish and sealer by hand.

[shane@detailedreflections]

Revive works well, but it’s more of a chemical polish rather than abrasive. We use it on paint protection films and behind door handles and such. I’d stick with the finishing polish to physically level the clear coat on the paint. 

[Mbrazelton]

Agree with Shane here.  I bought a new Silverado, and it was a little rougher than normal from the factory so I ended up using Correcting Polish and a Orange pad, then moved to Finishing Polish.  I feel that the finishing polish always seems to pull some sparkle out of cars.  I tend to do a pretty quick finish polish to most cars I seal, my reasoning is that it gives it a good surface to grab to.  I think if your going to polish no need to strip wash the second time.  I usually just wipe the residue off, and then move onto the sealant.  

 

[rseward]

1 hour ago, Mbrazelton said:

Agree with Shane here.  I bought a new Silverado, and it was a little rougher than normal from the factory so I ended up using Correcting Polish and a Orange pad, then moved to Finishing Polish.  I feel that the finishing polish always seems to pull some sparkle out of cars.  I tend to do a pretty quick finish polish to most cars I seal, my reasoning is that it gives it a good surface to grab to.  I think if your going to polish no need to strip wash the second time.  I usually just wipe the residue off, and then move onto the sealant.  

 

The 2nd strip wash was to remove any residue left by the clay lube before putting the body side molding on, to insure a good bonding adhesive. I'll probably just re-wash the area where the molding will be installed.  The instructions from Toyota say to prep the area with "3M  Prep Solvent-70" to remove any wax/sealer etc... I figured the Adam's strip wash would do the job.

 

 

 

[rseward]

Thanks for the expert advice.... I think I will bite the bullet and pick up a polisher (probably a cheap one from HF for now), and order a backing plate, pads and polish from Adam's. 

Edited August 24, 2018 by rseward

[shane@detailedreflections]

Quite honestly spend the money on an adams polisher. It’s a better quality product and will give a much better result. 

 

As for the second strip wash, there’s no real need. In fact, we don’t use strip wash at all in our services. Polishing will remove anything that remains from soft wax layers. If you’re really that worried you didn’t get all the polish residue off, use IPA or coating prep. But even then you’d never notice the difference in the end result. 

 

The second wash simply uses up time in the process for the most part in our opinion. You’ll find differing answers though. We can achieve fantastic, durable results without strip wash or the second wash. 

[rseward]

37 minutes ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

Quite honestly spend the money on an adams polisher. It’s a better quality product and will give a much better result. 

 

As for the second strip wash, there’s no real need. In fact, we don’t use strip wash at all in our services. Polishing will remove anything that remains from soft wax layers. If you’re really that worried you didn’t get all the polish residue off, use IPA or coating prep. But even then you’d never notice the difference in the end result. 

 

The second wash simply uses up time in the process for the most part in our opinion. You’ll find differing answers though. We can achieve fantastic, durable results without strip wash or the second wash. 

Are you suggesting I polish prior to installation of the molding?

[shane@detailedreflections]

What molding are you installing?  I may have missed that part. But yes, I’d polish before hand. And any adhesive you’ll want to use IPA to remove all residues. 

[rseward]

Locally on CL someone is advertising a "Flex XC 3401" for $275, say's it has 2 hours of total use.... Worth the extra $ for the Flex?

[rseward]

1 minute ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

What molding are you installing?  I may have missed that part. But yes, I’d polish before hand. And any adhesive you’ll want to use IPA to remove all residues. 

They are color matched body side moldings order from Toyota... Actually I ordered the "Door Edge Guards" and they sent the Body Side Moldings and I decided to keep them.

[shane@detailedreflections]

Are they adhesive backed?  If so, polish and then wipe with IPA before installation. Then carry on. 

[rseward]

yes... Adhesive backed. Thanks again!

[mc2hill]

On 8/24/2018 at 7:18 PM, rseward said:

Locally on CL someone is advertising a "Flex XC 3401" for $275, say's it has 2 hours of total use.... Worth the extra $ for the Flex?

 

The Flex 3401 is a forced rotation random orbital polisher vs. the free spinning Swirl Killer (and PC/Harbor Freight) polishers.  It will never bog down, but can be more tiresome as you are always fighting the rotation of the pad.  That is a good price for one!

[rseward]

6 hours ago, mc2hill said:

 

The Flex 3401 is a forced rotation random orbital polisher vs. the free spinning Swirl Killer (and PC/Harbor Freight) polishers.  It will never bog down, but can be more tiresome as you are always fighting the rotation of the pad.  That is a good price for one!

I went ahead and ordered the Adam's Two Step Swirl Killer 15mm Kit over the weekend, which includes: SK 15mm polisher, Correcting Polish, Detail Spray, Orange Foam Pad, Microfiber Cutting Pad, Blue Foam Cutting Pad, and Heavy Correcting Compound ($279.98). 

Then added... Finishing Polish, Paint Sealant, White Foam Pad, Gray Foam Pad, and 2 Borderless Gray Edgeless Towels, for a grand total of $308.49 (after 15% off coupon code).

 

Ordering the same polishes/pads with the Flex would have been about $400, and the HF would have been $200, so the SK was in the middle and seemed like the way to go.

 

[rseward]

What about the headlights/taillights, and other non-painted surfaces like the pillar post's (between the front and back doors). I understand you can apply LPS to those areas, but what about polish?  Would polishing those area's have any negative effects (induce swirls, etc...)?

[shane@detailedreflections]

Polish away if they’re painted. Nothing aggressive. The paint/plastic is usually pretty soft...do finishing polish.