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Machine Wax staining plastic/rubber?


Question

Posted

I am about to use the machine wax for the first time on my brand new TB SS and was wondering if I need to tape off the plastic/rubber before I get started. I don't want white crap in it that I can't get out.

 

I know the butter wax doesn't stain, but will the machine wax if the plastic/rubber gets hit with the orbital?

 

Thanks!

15 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

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Posted

Bradley, while I'm not saying you have to color inside the lines - a small amount of attention to detail will help. Our products do remove easily from trim but you should always try to save yourself as much headache as possible regardless :cheers:

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Posted
Bradley, while I'm not saying you have to color inside the lines - a small amount of attention to detail will help. Our products do remove easily from trim but you should always try to save yourself as much headache as possible regardless :cheers:

 

:iagree:

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Posted

Thanks guys. I will go ahead and tape up the spots that I know will get hit (no way to avoid it) just to be safe. For the SMW, what speed are you guys running your PC orbital at? I would assume light pressure as well correct?

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Posted
I usually run it at like setting 3 or 4, depending on how fast I'm going. I beleive there are directions on the back of the bottle also.

 

...yeah I saw that after I posted. :lolsmack:

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Posted

New Q: On the bottle, it says to wait 12hrs and then rebuff. Does that mean if you want to put a 2nd coat on you need to wait 12 hrs to do so?

 

Also, after you get the pad saturated, about how often due you need to reapply wax (sq ft wise)?

 

First coat is on and drying. :)

 

EDIT: I deliberately hit, and held, the rubber trim around my sunroof to see, it does not appear to be staining even if you pause on it. Yippee, I don't need to buy stock in blue painters tape.

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Posted

Hey a fellow TBSSer!!

 

I usually tape off my badges and door handles, moreso to protect the pads than anything. The cowl and trim I just try to do my best to keep the wax off, but if you do get any on its not that hard to remove.

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Posted

If your trim gets stained its easily removed. Take some APC on a microfiber towel, mist some on there along with the spot with the staining. Rub the hell outve the stain. Then take another microfiber towel damp with water and hit the same spot. After that take another microfiber towel with detail spray - hit the area again and voila!

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Posted

Great point Jeff, I'd add that using the VRT on the trim before polishing is also a great way to avoid problems, and make clean-up quick and easy:thumbsup:

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Posted
New Q: On the bottle, it says to wait 12hrs and then rebuff. Does that mean if you want to put a 2nd coat on you need to wait 12 hrs to do so?

 

Also, after you get the pad saturated, about how often due you need to reapply wax (sq ft wise)?

By rebuff they mean to take a mf towel and just wipe down the car 12 hours after applying and removing the superwax. It's to remove any hazing that occurred during the curing process that may work its way to the surface.

 

I put 1 full circle of wax around the pad and spread it thin, one panel at a time. after the first panel i do 1/2 to 3/4 of a circle

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Posted

Jeff & Jason: Great tips, thanks.

 

Gerry: What I meant was, since it takes 12 hours for a coat to cure (hence the reason you may need to rebuff) should you wait 12hrs before you apply another coat?

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Posted (edited)

Well, yes, because the oils that cause the hazing I spoke of would end up being trapped under the second coat and therefore unable to be removed easily.

 

Some people have different results but it's better to be safe than sorry. I went over my car with a towel the next morning anyway, only takes a minute and can't hurt:2thumbs:

Edited by GerryC
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Posted

Ive never had an issue with the MSW staining my trim pieces. The S&H and FMP, however, certainly leave residue on my bed-rail caps/bedliner. But even that is nothing a little APC cant take care of...

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