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Buttery Wax


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Buttery Wax

 

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-28-buttery-wax-16oz.aspx

 

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Buttery Wax is the easiest to use, shiniest liquid wax available today. For use in any weather condition, this wax literally falls off with the swipe of a microfiber towel. Buttery Wax is a polymer and Carnauba blend, offering the best of both modern and classic technologies. Buttery Wax contains no cleaners or abrasives, and will not stain plastic or rubber. Always treat an imperfect finish with Adam’s Clay Bar and Revive Polish before applying Butter Wax. Our new16-oz bottle will cover many vehicles, especially when used sparingly as recommended. Suitable for application in the sun or shade, and in hot or cool temperatures.

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Adam I keep it on a lift all season stays out of water. I usually do not rinse.We give it a great wax beginning of season while on the trailer..mid season and before winter. 42 ft times 2 hull sides and 35 ft of bow.. if i waxed every time I would have no time to :cheers: I really keep up on the bow all season.. just want to do hull sides while on the trailer.. on the lift its a no can do. I am thinking the machine wax buttery wax combo on the hull sides is the ticket.

 

Thanks D.

 

I think you are right on Daryl, and that combo will keep you beautiful. Fresh water doesn't kill the finish like salt, and a clear coat means it won't oxidize at light speed like gelcoat would do if naked.

 

Our SuperWax will outlast the Buttery Wax, so if you are going to spend the effort, apply the longest lasting sealant available.

 

Have fun, and please post some action shots of fun being had this spring and/or summer!:2thumbs:

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So i take it you detail gelcoat just exactly the same as you would detail a normal paint job? Isn't gelcoat like 5 times as thick as a normal clear coat?

 

Whooa, not at all my friend! Non-painted or clear coated gelcoat oxidizes 10X faster than a clear coat. If stored outdoors, or poorly maintained, a dual action polisher, like the Porter Cable, won't cut the oxidation.

 

A rotary buffer and aggressive compound will be needed to build up heat, and cut the finish in order to restore gloss.

 

Newer RV's are mostly clear coated, so the problem doesn't exist much on them these days. Older RV's, and most boats need to be either waxed often, covered, or ideally stored indoors, or the finish will need to be restored every 12-18 months.

 

:thumbsup:

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I've been a boater since I was 2 and my dad got me started young on taking care of them. One KEY thing to remember is to use NO products containing silicon. It will cause the gelcoat to yellow. I plan on doing ours this year with the PC as well. (The gel coat is like new) I will use the Machine wax like Adam suggested. I want all the protection I can get.

 

We used to have large boats. We had a 45' Bluewater and several Trojans but ended with a 36' Carver. We have a 2005 21' Correct Craft SV-211 that we use on a lake now. The big boats are in our past now. I LOVE the Fountain front ends. Beautiful boats.

 

 

Chris

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Thanks it has 500 EFI,s Takes a

lickin

and keeps on

tickin

Think its Time to Do a detail Job on our boat...

 

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DSCF1696.jpgl_35a6f6226f6740a0bdb85fba4456a4b0.jpg

 

 

Baja Outlaw 33 with Twin Bulldog 540's...We have a high speed buffer which it sounds like would work better than a normal orbital buffer, and the machine superwax sounds like it'd be the perfect wax for it...

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Whooa, not at all my friend! Non-painted or clear coated gelcoat oxidizes 10X faster than a clear coat. If stored outdoors, or poorly maintained, a dual action polisher, like the Porter Cable, won't cut the oxidation.

 

A rotary buffer and aggressive compound will be needed to build up heat, and cut the finish in order to restore gloss.

 

Newer RV's are mostly clear coated, so the problem doesn't exist much on them these days. Older RV's, and most boats need to be either waxed often, covered, or ideally stored indoors, or the finish will need to be restored every 12-18 months.

 

:thumbsup:

 

I have a ski boat this is stored indoors with only 150 hours on it. It just has some minor scratches and whatnot in the clear (?). IT's still really shiny, I just want to make it pop. It has just barely come down off of what it used to look like when it was brand new.

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As you are applying it it goes on clear and then hazes a bit white. In the bottle it is the color of butter.

 

do you guys have any tips for waxing a white car, and looking for haze besides dacing all around and looking at different angles?

fyi, ive waxed twice in my life, so maybe its just what you do lol

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do you guys have any tips for waxing a white car, and looking for haze besides dacing all around and looking at different angles?

fyi, ive waxed twice in my life, so maybe its just what you do lol

 

Haha I hate applying stuff to white cars for that very reason. I just dance around :banana:

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So you can apply the butter wax by hand? I had thought about that but then didn't.

 

I did it. I didn't want to dirty and clean a MF applicator pad to do such a small area. I was just practicing with my PC and needed to put some wax over where I had buffed. It works and it's defiantly a weird feeling, was for me anyways, that's the first time I've ever applied wax with my bare hands.

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I did it. I didn't want to dirty and clean a MF applicator pad to do such a small area. I was just practicing with my PC and needed to put some wax over where I had buffed. It works and it's defiantly a weird feeling, was for me anyways, that's the first time I've ever applied wax with my bare hands.

i wonder if the oils in our hands would affect the lifespan of the wax in a negative or positive way?:help::help:

 

BTW great deal on buttery wax today, buy two get one free!

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So you can apply the butter wax by hand? I had thought about that but then didn't.

 

I've never actually used the Buttery Wax - I was talking about solid carnuba waxes. Although I think applying the Buttery Wax by hand would actually enable you to get a super even coat, so it's worth a shot.

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