TGO

Bought the 3 pack! And they're in PA so hopefully I will have them by the weekend!

I haven't found any via GOOGLE. If you have a source, please share.

Every state seems to be different. In NJ, they seem to all be the motorized kind with the huge spinning brushes inside. Never liked those. The way they pound on your car, they can't be good. In PA, I've actually seen my favorite kind - completely touchless. You pull in, a machine swings around your car, applies soap, etc. and a high pressure wash. Then air dry and you pull out. Wasn't *perfect* but at least nothing touched/scratched my car. Here in NY, most car washes are comprised of a bunch of Mexicans washing cars by hand.

My OCD is too strong for that.

I'd love to get some quick sealant too. It really sucks having to wait 24 hours for the MSS to cure before I can wax. Turns an afternoon project in to a 2 day project. Hopefully it will be back in stock before the summer is over lol

I think once I use it on the whole car I will not go back to clay. Just the increased surface area you can cover with the 6" pad vs a small clump of clay in your hand should cut my time in half to do the whole car. And the B-body SS is a HUGE car lol!

I kinda want to try the stuff...but from what I understand, if you don't lay it down right you can get visible imperfections like high spots or even runs or drips, and allegedly it's a bear to get it off in the event you don't fix it before it cures. That said a sealer that lasted 18 months in my neck of the woods would be ideal.

I went to a local auto body supply store today and asked the owner since he has been very knowledgeable in the past. He sold me one of these: http://www.nanoskinusa.com/_e/AUTOSCRUB_System/product/AS-001/AUTOSCRUB_6_Pad.htm Of course we tried it first. The spots we tried it on came right off! And, I can attach it to the flex if there's a particularly stubborn spot.

How does the fleece hold up to getting wet? What cover do you use?

can you give us a more firm date on when the quick sealant will be in stock?

Whatever you do make sure the car and cover are clean before you put it on. And make sure that the cover is TIGHT. Go get some tarp anchor clips and bungee cords and secure it under the front, rear and middle of the car. IMO no cover is really weather proof so you want to make sure the wind isn't dragging the cover and contaminants across your paint for a few months. You're gonna have marks from the cover regardless, but the goal IMO is to minimize.

Goo gone and a microfiber didn't work either. Really weird. I'm sure in the worst case scenario the severe swirl remover will take it off...but I guess I'll try with the fine polish first as I'd rather not do all the steps over again.

I had the same problem. It was magnified by the fact that there's no shade on my block so if I washed the car any time before dusk it was impossible to dry it off before spots formed. I bought a .35 micron sediment filter and also a water softening cartridge from this website: http://www.purewaterproducts.com/gardenhosefilters.htm They have the dual cartridge filter adapters, already assembled...literally just plug and play. Now I don't even have to dry the car off...just let the sun dry the car. Might get a spot or two but they come right off with some detailing spray. It's usually just left over dirt/pollen residue. It has made my life so much less miserable. You can also spray some quick detailer while you're toweling off the car to help with spots too. But honestly, I think I spent about $99 on the filters and hardware and it was the best money I ever spent. You can piece together the parts locally but there are limited filter selections at local stores and I did the math and you're literally only saving yourself a few dollars. Take in to account driving to a couple different stores to get everything you need and it was worth it to buy everything as a kit and have it already assembled.

Well, bad news...I tried some clay on a few spots today and it doesn't seem abrasive enough to take the specks off. Like I said, I can knock them off with a finger nail but there's just too many to do that. Should I still clay/strip the whole car or is it ok to just take the flex to it as is? (After a wash obviously)

Well, I will say the only reason I'm not REALLY mad is that there are some area's of the car that need to be gone over again anyway. Plus I've decided to remove the door ding guards so that will require some buffing as well. And I should only have to hit it with the fine machine polish and sealant...not all of the steps. Sigh....it never ends does it? BTW, I also have an 05 GTO. She will be getting "Adamized" very soon!!!

I usually do the door jams every 3 or 4 washes...and I usually just use a regular sponge that I use *just * for that. If it's a particularly hard to reach area, like the hinge area...then I will use a long (soft bristle) wheel brush. Once a car is mine though, it rarely gets that dirty so usually the sponge and maybe a wet rag will suffice.

I was in the same boat. I was worried about getting the Flex because of how "powerful" it was described as being. I was afraid of damaging my car with it. Finally, I bit the bullet and bought one and within a couple of minutes of using the machine I already had a good feel for it. I also periodically stopped and felt the panel I was working on and there really wasn't any heat on it from the Flex...which is the major concern with "burning" paint. IMO to do damage with the Flex, you'd really have to stand there for a long time in the same spot. Just keep it flat against the paint and keep it moving and you're good to go. And don't run the machine over an edge. Meaning, if you come to like a 90 degree angle...don't polish the point where the two sides meet...do one side, then the other. So if it's say the trunk...do the lid, then do the vertical side. Or a fender...do the top, then do the vertical part.

So, naturally after completely detailing (breaking my back doing so) and marveling in the glory that Adam's polishes has bestowed upon the 95 Impala SS I recently saved - my hippie neighbor decided to spray paint the railings in front of his house every color of the rainbow. Naturally, he did so over the course of a few windy days and unbeknownst to me, my car was covered in tiny specks of paint. Not noticeable unless you're right up on the car, I only noticed them after washing when looking to put another coat of wax on. I don't know how but there are specks on pretty much every panel of the car. Luckily it seems like the wax that was on the car prevented it from bonding too well because I can knock them off with my fingernail...but obviously this is not a really great plan. After thinking about it, my first idea was to just clay the car again then maybe hit it with the fine machine polish and then start over with the super sealant and start layering wax again. Will claying the car strip the sealer/wax off of it? Does anyone have and idea's on how to maybe get the paint off without having to strip and re-polish the car? Thanks guys