red94chev

Interesting, I wonder how they came to use the Adams bottle?

That definitely looks like it would come out with some correcting polish.  I fixed a truck a couple years back that had a similar condition after a tarp came loose on the bedside.

Well it's already messed up, if it were me, I'd try some wet sanding and polishing.  What do you have to lose?

I've foamed the Iron Remover.  Worked just fine for me.

Another point to make, sometimes microfiber pads will leave a slight haze on an otherwise "corrected" surface so make sure you're not chasing that.  I always finish down with foam.

Foam it and get a junky sponge to hit all the powdered stuff.  I would maintain it with Ceramic Boost.  And take a lug nut bussh and clean along your pinch weld seem under the doors!

I prefer my old blue one too, much stiffer bristles for a deeper scrub.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adams-Polishes-Garage-Banner/132750361987?hash=item1ee889c583:g:RAMAAOSwZHxbecFq

Here's one on ebay to match your American cars.  I think they made this one like 3 or 4 years ago.

One thing I will say is to pull it out in the sunlight and reassess the paint.  Some of the stuff you can see with led lights, you can't see so easily in natural light.  Therefore, you're chasing something that isn't worth taking off more paint.

18 minutes ago, Aurora85 said:

Very good guys!  Thanks for the info and quick responses.  I guess I’m going to go through this spray bottle quickly!   Is VRT or the tire shine water based?

VRT is water based and Tire Shine has very minimal silicone.  Both are a much better option than any store brand tire shines.

Keep cleaning till the suds stay white.  It sounds like you are new to Adams TRC so you may not be using Adams Tire Shine or VRT.  Cheap silicone based tire shines will cause a lot of browning too. 

Lastly, I recommend picking up a stiff short bristled brush to really deep clean them and then maintain with the Adams brush and VRT or Adams TS.

1 hour ago, Bscott94 said:

That what I figured. What if I wetsand it and tape it off and spray it with clear? Do I just wetsand, wash, dry, and paint? 

I'm not a professional body guy but I believe they typically sand, wipe with some kind of a paint prep solvent, then paint/clear. 

Well the damage is done but you can kind of preserve it from here.  Once the clearcoat is dead, UV eats up the base color pretty fast.  At minimum, try to keep a good layer of protection on it, ceramic coating would probably be best.  You can also wetsand it to remove some of the "loose/dead" clearcoat before coating/sealant to ensure you're actually bonding to athe best surface.

I would try some revive or finishing polish and see what happens.  Looks like it may have sat on the wheel for too long. Were you in sunlight or were the wheels warm?

SOLD

I had a couple high spots in the last coating I did.  Revive knocked them down the next day, finishing polish by hand should work ok also.

I got plenty of chrome bottles. @mbrazelton, I think I might also!

3 hours ago, 07stanggt said:

PM Sent

Replied

14 hours ago, Ls1transam said:

I want to try a Flex so bad lol.

Snatch it up!  It really is a great machine and an absolute workhorse.

On 6/22/2018 at 10:00 PM, the Camaro show said:

Can you separate 1 red glaze and 1 grey sealant I have lots of stuff for trade 

I can do that if nobody wants the whole package within a couple weeks.

16 minutes ago, SlammedRT said:

 

Without water application? What am I missing here?

I believe he means World Online Wrestling Association sealant.

Oh wait, Wipe On, Walk Away.

Hey everyone, I think the time has come to sell my Flex. It is lightly used and in GREAT condition. I'd say I used it on roughly 10 cars. It is an awesome machine but I just don't use it anymore.

I am the original purchaser and I got it from Adams. It will come with all the pads also so add some polish and you'll be good to go!

3 used finishing

3 new finishing

1 new microfiber finishing

3 used cutting

2 used microfiber cutting

1 new cutting

2 black sealant

2 red glaze

I'm looking to get $300 plus shipping for it.  I am located in Cecil County, MD if anyone would be interested in local pickup.

- Jake

Detailer's Domain is in northern NJ and would definitely be able to get you fixed up.  Best part is he/they have a great relationship with Adams and they are a licensed Adams seller.

I use APC in my foam cannon for pre-wash on cars that I'm detailing.  I think that would be your best bet.  If you have the snub-nose pressure washer handle, that would make it even easier to get under the car.

So I would:

Powerwash undercarriage

Foam undercarriage with APC (I use 4oz in the cannon and a little bit of car shampoo might make it cling a better)

Powerwash/foam the car and strip wash

Pull the wheels and deep clean them seperately

And then go ahead and do whatever cleaning/claying/polishing/protecting you think is necessary

What year is said Forester?  If there's any severe rust already, then the damage is pretty much done.  A good pressure washing and APC foaming/cleaning of the undercarriage never hurts.  Treat the exterior as normal.