03blackSSS

When I used the LPS the first time, I had the same problem. I used too much. I did notice it's VERY hard to remove from my yellow hex applicator. APC pure won't take it all out. So that is not my sealant pad only. Are there plans on bringing to hex applicators back in the future?

Thanks guys!

We will be getting a new outback in the coming weeks, and I want to start it's life out right. My question is regarding the curing of the paint. When having something repainted (Classic cars), they always did recommend allowing about 30-60 days for the paint to not only cure, but allow it to off-gas. Unless this has changed with the use of water based paints, I am unsure. This was 10 years ago when I was told this. Does this apply to cars built at the factory? Or are the pretty much cured once they leave due to manufacturing processes? I just was to get this thing cleaned and sealed ASAP

Man, just didn't search enough- Thanks though!

Are the single soft's leaving? I just noticed they weren't on the site. Being replaced with the borderless blue's?

I actually didn't have a problem with it gumming up. When I was done most of the fibers were seemingly "fluffed." It may be just me, but it seemed the polish "flashed" a little quicker than with the foam pads. I didn't have problems when working on curves with buildup on the panels either. I struggle with that on the foam pads, not sure if I use too much product or what. Only when the pad cannot be flat due to curves. With these I never had that problem.

I just got the MF pads in friday- I was using the foam pads with the swirl/haze remover, fine machine polish. The last gen polishes. It was taking much longer to polish out swirls and scratches in the paint on my black truck- and even leaving some that I found "acceptable." With the MF pads using the same polishes, it can out much faster, and much better. I am stoked about these. Course the clear is softer on this truck, but I love how it turned out. Much less dusting as well. Here is a 50/50 shot using MF pads and older polishes. About 95% correction w/o using the severe swirl and green pad. (Still using up my old stock)

After I wash I use the sidekick to blow out everything- I may take a look and see how hard it will be to remove to work on the bench. The SS panels is adding to the pain on this thing

I am working on the tailgate on my truck- Being black it is being difficult. Dirt continues to fall out of cracks and orifices when wiping off polish. When I wipe it is leaving marks with my single softs. I switch to another side of the towel and it lasts a wipe or two then leaves marks. I don't know if I can clean this thing any better than it is. Is there a secret to this? I'd take the tailgate off and work on it separately, but the previous owner put a spring on it to make it lighter to open and close.

How much do you add? Maybe 1-2 oz? I just purchased a gilmour foam sprayer mainly because I do not have access to a pressure washer. I was wanting to try this as well

My wife drives a white tahoe. Sometimes I feel that thing is harder to care for than my black truck. At least on a black truck I can see what I need to correct and it is easy to polish/wax. The white hides so much, and with the lights on, it really reveals that. Take the lights off and you know there are imperfections but can't quite see them to correct them. It shows dirt more than I thought a white vehicle does. The rail dust is insane just from driving on the road. I love the crispness of the bright white when its clean, but when it gets dirty, it seems worse than black IMO. Course that could all just be my OCD

Thanks Dylan-That sounds like it. Maybe just go over that area with revive and call it good? Or let it alone and wait to just re-clear it?

Got it! Thanks!

Yeah I figured it would't polish out the cracks. I just didn't know how it would affect the already cracked clear. The rest of the car isn't too bad except for a nasty haze on it. The test spots looked really good on the other panels. Matt- I think that is the same color or at least really close. This is a 30th anniversary car, late '98 limited. Which the previous owner said they only did that color for the 30th anniversary? Which was 1999. Not sure if that's true or not

I recently got a hold of a '98 outback. It's an extra vehicle/ gas saver, but is also black, with a copper metallic. Would be a beautiful color combo once treated. The previous owners I believe never waxed this car. I polished a couple spots to see how it would turn out, and I believe it would look great with the copper undertone popping out. The Main issue I have is the hood. The clear on the hood is looking bad. It has tiny hairlike cracks in it, but not peeling, or chipping. Is this something I should stay away from polishing? Or maybe just using revive and hand polishing prior to waxing?

This is correct- No touchy. Even sitting a few hours in a garage will leave enough dust on the surface, that once touched and moved, will leave light scratches, otherwise not seen on a non-black vehicle. The shinier black gets, the pickier you'll be

I can understand as I went through the same thing on my first polish. Like others have said, how much did you work the polish? With buffing new paint and clear on a restored truck I did, I had bad experiences with buffing. Burning through the clear is not a good feeling. So I was afraid to polish as long as I needed. Polishing is a different animal, as we are not removing nearly as much clear as one would believe in reaching a desired shine. The polish has a flash time, in which it needs to be worked until the polish's life has expended. Test sections are the best, as others have mentioned, to get the right formula as every car is different. It's definitely learning by practicing.

Thanks for the tip! He actually attempted to clean it first, so I didn't have first hands on it. I'll remember that if I run into a similar situation again!