Ricky Bobby

Do a search we just talked about it recently with our American Bulldogs. Mine is 80 lbs with short white hairs. That's a small dog! Haha

Get a Ridgid shop vac at Home Depot and vaccum often. Avoid black interiors. Get all weather mats so you can apc and rinse them. Use sidekick to blow off the interior.

^yes you will do yourself a favor to use wheel cleaner in the shade on cool paint to take off a ton of the fallout that is on the paint.

Run some apc through the foam gun to clean it out.

Revive is a good cleaner glad it helped! Keep on truckin Phil!

Don't think so. I believe they are a pretty poor seller when they were available.

The wheel woolies really help me stay decently clean when doing wheels/tires - although I'm usually wearing nitrile gloves anyway

This plays a factor

 

 

You were working outside?

^x3 - didn't you build a garage last year Phil? 

I have had a gallon of rinseless wash for awhile, but really haven't used it. I want to start doing rinseless washes. I'm curious what you guys do with your towels after a wash. If you use 6-8 towels for a wash, do you immediately wash them, or wait until you have more for a full wash? If you save them for a later wash, how do you let them dry without getting musty?

They get a bit musty if they dry up but I wring them out completely so they are damp and they sit in my hamper in the garage until I have a full load (about 30-35 towels worth)

I rinse them, air dry, and save for a larger washing machine load.

^I don't rinse I just wring them out personally.

Same here. In fact, today I did a single load of 37 orange single soft towels representing 4 rinseless washes going back about 5 weeks. I use the microfiber revitalizer and keep restarting the wash cycle every 10 minutes so they get about an hour of agitated washing. I suggest doing an extra rinse cycle if you can. Tumble dry on low, don't over cook them, and they'll come out great.

Yes if you have extra rinse go for it - rinse and wash on Warm not hot, and use the "heavy" cycle -

I also like to let the towels sit soaking in the washer for an hour or so before starting the cycle with the lid open - obviously with a HE or side loader you can't do this.

^phenomenal work - looks like you combined all to have best of all worlds!

Yep I do the same to mine about every 6 months! Keeps them fluffy and looking great!

Also do it on the merino wool mitt if you have it - nice part about the wool mitt is it doesn't shed at all!

Yep magic eraser is like really fine sandpaper but a pass with correcting polish should handle it fine.

I was gonna say wet sanding might be the only way

Glad to hear it's gone!

PM me as its a non-Adams detailing vendor -

There is a dispenser cap that I have for gallon containers which works well as a pour spot and closes when not in use for pouring - is the size of a standard cap too, so it doesn't take up more height on my shelf.

I think it was $1.50 - works much better than the pump IMO -

It looks similar to this, but not exact - mine has a bit more funneled shape on the pouring spout -

Guys I just got my car back from the body shop after a minor repair on the inside of one of my front doors - I was driving home and saw some haze on the inside of my front window on that door - "no problem, probably needs some cleaner"

Lo and behold, it was paint overspray, glass cleaner laughed at it.  I have window tint so this worried me, but thanks to a diluted rinseless solution and the visco clay which is really an ultra fine clay, I got the overspray removed off my tint with no marring whatsoever!

I also noticed that my towels would lint when I wiped the glass with overspray on it - after the clay bar there is no linting or grabbing on that window -

So for all you guys out there who are having trouble with grabby windows on the inside, you may actually have some contamination in there which needs clay to remove. 

I urge you to TEST in an inconspicuous spot of the glass (lower corner), and with window tint, be extra careful, but it could be useful.  My wifes 2014 Jetta Sportwagen has an extremely grabby and linty front windshield and I will be claying the inside of it this weekend to see if that takes care of it.

Think about it this way, on the assembly line the glass is sitting in a shop somewhere and who knows if its close to a paint booth or areas where airborne contaminants lay - All I know is that her front windshield (inside) has been grabby and always lints my towels when cleaning it ever since we bought it.

Hope this helps some of us here, I personally had never had a need to clay the inside of any windows for any reason until my body shop experience, and then it dawned on me that my wifes windshield is probably in need as well.

In 98% of other circumstances though you should not need to clay the inner glass as it is not subject to the same airborne contamination as your exterior glass.

Well, if you want windows and wheels.....!! LOL.

And a transmission lol

This came up last year or earlier this year as well - long story short its probably not coming out completely. 

I'm thankful of my garage for this reason as this would bug the hell out of me.

Yes.

^^^Darryl I agree with you 100% - I also use VRT 1:1 for interior dressing on plastics - I leave the Leather Conditioner for more porous surfaces like actual leather -

 

Does TID replace the need for Leather Conditioner on plastics?

Technically it could - its a wipedown product with a modest amount of UV protection and light cleaners - LC is a wipe in (cream) product which has tons of UV protection and a very light cleaning agent.

Two different products - personally I don't use Leather Conditioner on the plastics at all I just clean and do wipedowns,and use the LC on the most highly abused areas of my interior which are the leather seats.

I don't like to brag and I don't like bragging that I have a Porsche as I purchased it for myself to enjoy and not to show off.  The second I tell someone I have a Porsche, they generally have a different reaction etc. than if I didn't. 

To be honest I have the same reaction given when I say I hesitantly tell people I drive a BMW - even though its 13 years old.

PT3, all you need to do to solve this first world problem is a dually conversion, lift kit, and the installation of a gun rack. 

LOL - With the awesome garage of Phil I would definitely like the goodies in his gun safe

I do not think you should try and unthread the neck piece.  I looked at mine and do not see any threads.

 

The leaking you are seeing while shaking the bottle is from the air vents below the knob.  This normal, it happens to me, on both the Adam's cannon and the MTM cannon.

 

To avoid this, I shake the bottle before attaching the nozzle, by just holding my hand over the opening of the bottle.

Duh - I didn't think about that at all since OP sounded like he saw leakage from that spot - good catch Dan.

^i love this idea (super diluted Car Shampoo) and yes I agree with all dilutions being with distilled.

I sometimes have stubborn interior glass I am working on and this would work great! Awesome tip. And yes thank you to clarifying to others this is more like a "deep clean" for your glass but regular Glass Cleaner works for maintenance.

^the vacuum effect is the holes right below the twist knob up top (you can see them in the pic) - the neck fitting should be tight IMO

Looks like the neck piece needs to be unscrewed and some teflon tape on there - I always put teflon tape on my brass fittings