Ricky Bobby

Sigh.

Its fine but its not as strong as what I referenced, doesn't get as much of the gunk and grime out, and uses more product that is already expensive at $30 a gallon - With the diluted 3:1 MFR mix I can literally get all the black tire ooze out of my VRT applicators and besides being discolored they are like new - The ultimate test I did recently was that my toothbrush I use to clean the slides and barrels of my firearms was black from carbon and normal APC didn't really do that much, bristles were still black - a couple squirts of that 3:1 MFR mixture and it was white bristles again - Try it on your fender brush, with the white bristles you'll be amazed at what comes off that brush that the APC wouldn't get -

The current ones are better than the outgoing thats for sure - the ones with the neoprene cushion layer were horrible IMO

No - the "wax" name is more name recognition marketing because its an easy name to attach to protection - the protection in "Wash and Wax" is silica based I believe per the video so it should work well as a maintenance wash for vehicles protected with the coating + boost or just the boost product -

^Only brush I use - the shorter bristles are key

This - there is only so much the paint can absorb at a time with these - on the 8 oz bottle of Adam's ceramic boost 1-2 sprays should be enough to do an entire panel, door, etc - any more of it is wasting products, etc - Great products ( I haven't used Adams Boost but I do own Reload) but you have to do less is more approach -

Heres my .02 on rock chips - Unless you never drive your car you are going to get rock chips on the front end - and a clear bra doesn't last forever. I call them "mileage chips" because as you put the miles on you are bound to get some - having excellently polished paint and defect free is more important to me than worrying about a couple rock chips on the front end, every time I go to wash the car there is a new mark on the bumper, front edge of hood, etc

Dont forget the "Legacy" or 15ES/21ES tools are now drastically reduced in price putting them in line with the 12E Duetto (which is also a great tool) but if you are using 5.5"/6" pads you may want to consider the original 15ES as its a fantastic machine and now $80 less than it used to be (the Mark II models basically took the old price point)

Thinner paint on plastic etc - you said you had a Mini, you probably didn't need the 12mm orbit - what pad and polish were you using, I would have done least aggressive first method, with white foam and white polish and checked work to see how it did - If the white foam and white polish took it past the clear I'd be shocked

I do not agree with this statement but I do appreciate your review Scott and your opinion as a professional detailer -

Having a Mini, 15 or 21, and a Nano is the absolute best overall combo - I should be adding a Mini soon, and then saving up for a Long Neck Nano - that tool is just too cool -

Agreed - my Rupes 21ES is like a precision tool compared to the Porter Cable on my shelf from 2005

iBrid <3 - Did you use the Rupes blue foam pads? Looks great, I am itching to get a long neck Nano

Rupes ES tools are now manufactured here - my November made 21ES says Made in USA of EU components on it - not "foreign components" - Go with the Rupes - the ES tools are still sold and great machines if you don't have the money for the MarkII (and not everyone needs a MarkII either)

Toyota is soft as can be - you'll need a finishing polish or at least the finer pad -

Priming is essential and especially on microfiber in my use - read Kevin Brown's excellent article on pad priming and he really gets into the science of polishing

M205 is probably the best all around polish on the market today - I own both and they each have their place but unless you are just looking to be OCD and have all one brand do not replace it, its a great and extremely versatile product 205 is fine for yearly touchups, but I would be doing short section passes as 205 is SMAT as you know and inspecting your work, and using a finishing foam pad like Adams white - 105 cuts more than the Orange polish and faster, the revised formula does not dust if used properly (i.e. don't overuse it) - the Orange polish is a great in between, cuts less than 105 but finishes better than 105 does in most cases - haven't used the Blue yet but assuming its on a similar cutting level but all Adam's polishes are DAT as far as I know so 2 different types of products -

No its your process - Read Kevin Brown's article on residue control and supplemental wetting agents -

This - counterweight is for sanding

I hope its very well maintained - otherwise it will be in the dealership chasing repairs more than you will have time to detail it LOL I've had friends with that generation RR and it wasn't always pleasant

Microfiber detergent (revitalizer) diluted 1:3 works the best - the APC doesnt touch polishing pads, VRT blocks, or hand applicators in my experience

You shouldnt dilute the APC at all but you should dilute the TRC 1:2 or 1:3 as at that strength its about as strong as full strength APC IMO -

Obviously the wax that is specifically made for white cars - duh

It took about 1 oz in total to do my wifes entire vehicle - yes you used too much, 2-3 sprays per panel max -

If you are using synthetic polymers whether they be acrylic or silica then follow the same standard rules - try to use your strongest layer as the base protection (Paint Sealant), and you can boost protection with the Ceramic Boost spray or Guard and Gloss - Although now that its released considering you can boost protection with the Ceramic Spray without water, multiple towels, and as simple as wiping down on all surfaces, its kind of a no brainer. However I will say - silica does NOT like waxes, and waxes WILL alter the water behavior and hydrophobic properties of silica sealants and coatings - if your are using the coating or Ceramic Boost do not use other products on top of it as you are defeating the purpose of the coating or the silica protection.