SJC96GT

Check out Hyperikon LED lighting. I have their LED lighting/bulbs for garage, outside lights and for every room inside the house. Amazon sells a 4 pack of 4ft fixtures for $52.95, which is a great price. I have 4 of these in my garage (more on the way), I purchased the Crystal White Glow (5000k). Super bright (2200lm) and only 22w. Pretty neat how you can link them together with the linkable cords, allowing you to run them all off of 1 outlet, if you actually wanted to. https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Integrated-Fixture-Basement-Included/dp/B012ENR1IE/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1496839777&sr=8-8&keywords=hyperikon+4ft

Have the same issue with an BMW X5 M I just recently detailed. The owner waits until the car is absolutely filthy and the wheels are just ridiculously bad. I treated the wheels 2 or 3 times with Wheel Cleaner and exactly what you're showing in the picture remained. I ended up telling the customer that I wasn't able to remove all the brake grime. I recommended it be brought back to me on a more regular basis so the wheels don't continue look the way they have and so that those spots don't get worse. They ended up telling me that 2 of the wheels were replaced under warranty because of that reason and that center cap was corroding. But now, it seems to be happening again and obviously the dealership isn't going to continue replacing them. I don't know if it has something to do with the brakes themselves or if waiting so long between getting it detailed has caused the wheels to start to look that way. My guess is maybe a little bit of both but they continue to come back and I continue to work at it. I've tried clay and a stiff plastic edge but no luck. I went to the extent of using a razor blade (which I don't recommend) which did chip a piece of it off but i wasn't going to take anymore chances with a razor blade. Especially since the wheels are extremely expensive. I'm just going to continue to soak it with wheel cleaner over and over again and hope it breaks free from the wheel at some point. This is the one and only vehicle I've ever had an issue with not being able to remove all the brake grime.

The reason glass towels are used to actually clean the glass is one; it has shorter pile then the 365 GSM towel that I use to clean up remaining glass cleaner and two; its used to "polish" the glass. The short pile allows you to put more cleaning "power" if you will into removing whatever may be on the glass surface. Also, next time you clean your glass on the exterior of the vehicle. Clean the glass first (clean up remaining glass residue with heavier GSM towel), then clay it (spray the glass again with glass cleaner and then clay the glass, dry it again with heavier GSM towel), after that clean it again and remove any remaining glass residue with heavier GSM towel. If any lint is left on the glass use another dry glass towel to remove it. If there is still any remaining dirt or grime on glass that isn't removed in the above steps then you can always take it one step further by using a razor blade scraper. Which after using that and then doing the above steps should leave your glass 100% clean and streakless.

I tried small amounts of ceramic boost and then i tried to apply it like Adam did in the video. Both ways it still very like it dragged and left the same not as smooth surface like with H2O G&G or Paint Sealant.

Agree, it didn't wipe very smooth and has drag too. I wonder why it would've done that though? The paint was decontaminated so I can't think of other reason to why it would've had drag and not very smooth either.

I tried ceramic boost by itself on a family members truck. In my opinion it didn't leave that smooth surface feeling like H2O G&G does. I also thought it was a tad difficult to remove. I cleaned up some spots with detail spray where streak remained, I was tired of wiping over and over again with a single soft towel. The next day I was able to see how well it shed water, which it did a good job at. Wondering if anyone else experienced the same their first time using it?

I typically use one glass towel and follow up with a 365 GSM microfiber towel. It removes any remaining residue. Give that a try and see what results you have. I have been doing this for quite some time for the windshield and glass anywhere else on the vehicle, after always using a 365 GSM microfiber towel the glass is completely streakless. Also, wanted to make mention a dirty glass towel will leave streaks for sure. Make sure is it washed and don't use fabric softener. Never dry towels at a high heat either make sure heat is medium (at highest), low or you can let them air dry.

You are Correct

Last time I heard about a coating was when DvK was still around. Instead of waiting any longer I decided to try one by another company and have had great results with it. What I got from the video and info about it, is that its neither a ceramic or glass coating but one that breathes and flexes with the paint.

I've seen this method used on delicate paint and/or expensive cars where you want to minimize the chances of scratching the paint. I have used it once or twice on a few cars I've detailed.

I used it all the time to remove my wife's dogs pee stains whenever he peed in the house. I used it along with the cockpit brush and then soak up the solution with a "retired" microfiber. Thankfully he finally stopped peeing in the house and now all I have to worry about is him puking from time to time. Works fantastic!

It is scratched up after removing all the scratches/swirls whenever I first got the vehicle. The most noticeable one is on the driver side door close to the door handle. There are 3 scratches that were never there before. Each a total in length between 3 - 4 inches. Once I get some free time I'm going to remove them.

PM'd to mention name of coating, that isn't a ceramic coating.

Think it removed the sealant also? I do have a coating underneath the sealant and I'm wondering if that's still present.

So I took my recently new vehicle to Ford early this morning to have the oil changed. I get a call saying that its done and ready for pickup. Whenever I arrive I see that my vehicle is no longer dusty/dirty. I walk in and ask them if they washed it. Their response "Let me check, yep! They gave you a free wash." I just stood their shaking my head and told them I don't like how dealerships wash vehicles and that I'm very picky on how its washed. From now I will be hanging the Adam's do not wash from the mirror... Curious as to whether sealant and wax are still present on the paint though? Or if I'm going to have to redo it all..

It depends on where you're purchasing it from

Chris, Welcome to the forum!! After wash with dawn and after you clay, (this is my personal preference) but I like to wash the car again to remove any clay residue. If you have any stubborn spots of grime on the car (and have deep wheel cleaner or Adam's new wheel cleaner) I suggest diluting it 1:1 and using it to help remove any stubborn spots of tar, road grime, etc from the paint before you start polishing. After you're are done polishing, I would also suggest applying paint sealant, then glaze and then wax, for the best possible results. (I do remove the polishing residue after polishing by doing an IPA wipe down. It's up to you whether you'd like to do that or not, some do and some don't) Your car looks great, you'll have to post some pictures of it after you are done. If you want the best possible shine, in the future save up for patriot wax... it's an absolute joy to apply and remove. Gives the paint depth, clarity and that wet look. Apply glaze to your wheels once and then see how much they shine, you'll really like the results. Hope that helps!!

I'd say go with rinseless washing. Prior to doing a rinseless wash, I always rinse the vehicle off, you can do that at a local pay 'n spray or at home. Afterwards I pre-soak the vehicle using diluted rinseless. Once pre-soaked, I got to my bucket full of towels (6-8 towels, number of towels depends on the size of the vehicle. With a truck you could end up using 10 towels or more) and rinseless wash mixed with 1 gallon of water. I use 1 bucket and the multiple towel method seen here in this video - If you have a garage you park your vehicle in, you can rinseless wash the entire vehicle first before drying. If you don't have a garage to park the vehicle in, I suggest just doing one panel at a time. Hope that helps!

No problem!

Here they are - http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/16156-do-not-wash-printable-dealership-warning-hangers/?hl=%2Brear+%2Bview+%2Bmirror

I think of patriot wax as my show car wax but it can be used for daily drivers if you want the best depth and shine. You can use H20 G&G over the wax if you so choose, it may hinder the depth and shine of the paint compared to the results 2 weeks ago whenever you applied and removed patriot. To keep that depth and shine that patriot gives the paint, I would recommend just using detail spray when drying the car that way you keep the car looking like you had it after you applied patriot wax. In your case, I would use H20 G&G after a wash in 2-4 weeks and if you want that added depth and shine again after using H20 G&G, make patriot your LSP. The reason I say in 2-4 weeks depends on weather conditions, whether the car sits outside or is garage kept, etc. can change the lifespan of how long the wax lasts.

Welcome to the forum!

Here's a discussion about it earlier this year - http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/30004-when-to-use-and-not-use-rw/?hl=rinseless I attached video in case you wanted to know more.

Energy Modeling, IT and Web Design

Depending on what vehicle it is 6-8 hours for me on just the exterior. This is without polishing the vehicle Here is my process: 1. Strip Wash (This includes wheels, wheel wells, tires, exhaust tips, etc.) 2. Clay entire vehicle including glass 3. Re-wash to remove any clay residue 4. Dry vehicle whether it be with towel or master blaster 5. Apply coating or sealant (the coating I use has a cure time of 2 hours before applying anything on top of it, which would increase time to 10 hours) *IPA wipe down before coating is applied 6. Sealant (if you applied sealant instead on step 5 then you would move onto glaze step 7) 7. Apply Glaze and remove 8. Apply Wax and then remove 9. Dress Wheel wells 10.Dress Tires 11. Apply Sealant, Glaze and Wax to wheels 12. All trim, plastics and grille treated with VRT or In and Out Spray 13. Glass Cleaned and Sealed 14. Metal Polish on metals that need a polishing or treat chrome with glaze and wax 15. One last go over with detail spray in case I may have missed a small spot of protection. Interior is a different story, it would be another 1-2 hours depending on what owner wanted done. That's pretty much all of it wrapped up in 15 steps. I may be missing a few things if I happen to think of another step, I will just edit it. I charge $120-150 for all of that depending on vehicle size. This is a price for first time customers, that way when I'm done and the vehicle looks better than they ever saw it they want to come back to have it done in 8-12 months. If it were to be a huge truck, the price would increase after I assess the vehicles condition. I used to only charge $100 but I needed more to cover for products and my time. My most recent detail was Scion TC that a kid had and he had just got a turbo installed on it. I did the above steps to it for $200. If you have any questions feel free to ask.