gbod

Phil, I asked a similar question a while back. You can read some of the responses in this thread: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27226-taping-before-machine-polishing/

I am a health care professional, not really a tool guy. For what it's worth, (coming from someone who has never used anything else before,) I found the Cyclo to be very effective and vey easy to use. The balanced design allows for fatigue free, easily controlled maneuvering and operation. I don't regret spending a few extra bucks for a quality tool that made the job easier for me and will last forever. I also like the fact that for a noob, I can't really hurt anything with the Cyclo. I would highly recommend it for anyone just starting out. After getting my cars done for the winter, I, like you, don't see myself using it more than a couple of times a year from here on out. But, knowing how well it works when I do need to use it made the investment worth it to me.

Thanks to all for the replies! Now that I know how much LPS is getting absorbed into the pads, next time I will use my fingers to squeeze it back to the surface of the pads in between panels, and hopefully less of it will end up down the drain, and cleaning will be easier.

This morning I finally had a chance to use my new Cyclo for the first time for some paint correction and then applying a coat of Liquid Paint Sealant to my daily driver. As a total noob to machine polishing, I must say the Cyclo used with Adam's paint correction polishes and pads was super easy and worked awesomely! My question is this: How much pressure, if any, should be used when applying Liquid Paint Sealant with the gray Sealant and Wax pads? The reason I ask is because when I was all finished and went to clean my pads, there was a ton of LPS that had absorbed into the pads, and it took me a long time with several rounds of Dawn dish soap and All Purpose Cleaner to get it all out. (Actually, I don't know if I did get it all out, I kind of gave up after a while- being waterproof, LPS is hard to wash out!) When applying, I was just using the weight of the machine to spread out the sealant, but if so much got absorbed into the pads, should I have used more pressure to "squeeze" it out of the pad? Or, is that just the way it goes?

The forums are not the proper channel for customer service issues: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/5176-have-a-problem-with-an-adams-product-or-order/

I don't mind the scent of the current formulation, as it is quite mild. I enjoy the scent of the exterior products, as they all make the garage smell nice, something like a tropical fruit smoothie when they are all combined together. I also enjoy the scent of the leather conditioner, as it helps keep the interior smelling like new. However, I don't want the leather interior of my car to smell like a fruit salad, so I feel like any interior detailing product should have a very mild, or even neutral scent.

We have been using the Spigen Tough Armor on my wife's second iPhone after she dropped her first one and cracked the screen. (That was an expensive drop!) She has dropped the second one multiple times and the Spigen Tough Armor had kept it safe. We looked at Otterbox, but she didn't like how it made the phone so bulky. The Spigen costs less, is a little less bulky, and had held up great. http://www.spigen.com/brands/apple/iphone/iphone-6/iphone-6-case-tough-armor-4-7.html

Dan, that Looks fantastic! I am wondering- do you feel the Revive polishing step (and subsequent complete removal) really makes that much of a difference after the first two all-purpose cleaner steps? It seems that there wouldn't be a whole lot for the polish to do on beautiful paint like that. I have a bottle of Revive, but I am still trying to figure out what place it has in my routine. Thanks for continuing awesome write-up!

You might want to check out this thread: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27174-what-do-you-think-of-my-lloyd-mats-fitment/?p=430063

Fresh milk is slightly acidic, then gets more acidic as it goes sour. If a little spilled milk did this to the paint, I am guessing it is super soft!

Saw this in my news feed today! http://www.roadandtrack.com/go/car-culture/peter-max-corvette-collection-exhumed-from-parking-garage-purgatory Update- it looks like they are already in the process of being restored. Here is the link to the original NYT post that has a video! http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/26/automobiles/a-set-of-vettes-off-to-rehab.html

I actually emailed support the other day about the hex grip applicators and which one to use for sealant. This was the reply: The Orange Foam in the Hex Grips is an abrasive foam, made for polishing out defects with Paint Correcting Polish. However, the foam in the other three (blue, yellow, and red) is all the same structure, non-abrasive, so they all three can be used interchangeably for any sealant, glaze, or wax. We color-code them so you can keep them straight as it's best to not mix-and-match which products you use on an individual applicator.

I may be totally wrong, but I bet since all the videos are available on the website (and YouTube), i wouldn't think they would be burning DVD's anymore.

Just curious- is the bag tall enough to close if the sprayers are attached the the bottles? Thanks!

I know this is an old thread, but I noticed that the ProGear Race Seat and the similar GearSeat Monster both now appear on the Made in the USA page. I have no idea how much of it is made in the USA, but it might be worth looking into!

Thanks for all the great replies! I'll grab some green 3M tape.

Greetings all! I just acquired a big box-load of Adam's products, including a new Cyclo polisher. I am going to practice machine polishing on my old daily drivers before I attack the black BMW. In watching all of the instructional videos, I don't see any instruction on taping off trim, badges, rubber gaskets, etc. before polishing. In fact, in most of the videos, polishing is demonstrated on a big flat surface, and the whole topic of polishing in tighter areas and around trim isn't really demonstrated or addressed. This thread here talks about tape that no longer seems to be available from Adam's. Somewhere i remember watching or reading somewhere that using VRT on the trim before polishing could alleviate the need for taping. Is taping recommended? If so, what tape would the pro's recommend? (Please be specific!) Thanks!