Mooser

Arrrrgggg Went to start to clay the wifes DD (for the first time) as I start to get it ready for a mild correction. I've got two of the "old" Adams clay bars (the grey ones) that have never been used (was using up my other brands) and went to use these ones stored in the cool basement for the last year Opened a new jar and cut open the bag and... Sticks to my fingers, then sticking to the trigger on the detail spray bottle, now the handle on the bucket. Probably some in my pocket likely in my hair (what's left of it anyway), I'm afraid to go have a wiz Not sticking to the car (lots of detail spray needed though) Sprayed my fingers with detail spray, still sticking Folded it over a bunch of times, still incredibly sticky. Stuffed it into a ziploc bag and got cleaned up for supper Came out after supper, stuck in the bag like it's bonded on the molecular level!!!! had to tear it apart and leave a skin on the inside of the bag! It's working fine at removing containation from the paint but I can't believe how it's sticking to me. I know one of the sales pitches for the new stuff is it's less sticky but man I didn't realize it's this bad. Anyone have any suggestions before I check the second one tomorrow and just toss both of them and look at the new blue ones next order (back to the big "M" bar until then I guess) M

Only if you through it at it or something I did a pair of them last year, one thing to watch is the edges. Sharper than we are used to on cars and the gel isn't as thick (at least sometimes, others it's extra thick, go figure) Clay, finishing polish and then did machine super sealant. Turns out fantastic. If it needs, part way through the summer (these get more sun and surf that the cars too) a paste wax, not sure if I'd go to americana or patriot but something with some body to it M

I'd go that route but they are still a little dear up this way, maybe my next trip to the states though. M

Thanks, that's what I thought. My wife's DD is a malibu and by the end of it two single softs are completely soaked including wringing pretty hard as I go. If the rains hold off I'll try doing a partial drying of the car then the HGG (gotta empty the old bottles) Maybe time to get a dryer of some type (read leaf blower) Mooser

Question about the application and removal rags For the applicator, after the initial wetting and wringing out, is there any need to rinse it out during the rest of the process? If so, what would be the tell for when it would need to be done. I've done a few cars now and don't notice any buildup or change in performance other than as some have stated, it needs less new product as it goes along. For the drying towels. I'm treating them somewhere in-between a waffle-weave drying towel and a single or double soft detail spray. I'm using about 3-4 towels on a mid-size car before they seem too wet or getting too much HGG on them and don't seem to be working well anymore. I believe I'm probably leaving too much water on the car when using the HGG. Any input ? Thanks Mooser

Thanks, I'm working with a 16:1 today and it works well M

I've got a quick question on the dilution of rinseless for use as a clay lube. The 64:1 ratio listed and then I was just reading the Tesla detail where I think it's 16:1. I've tried the 64:1 (tricky in a 16oz sprayer) and it really didn't give much slide, I'm probably at double that now (32ish:1) with borderline acceptable results, I'll be doing the wife's DD tomorrow so I'll mix up another batch and try the 16:1 Just wondering where the 64:1 came from and if anyone was having luck with it? M

Updated the list and also added wheel and glass section M

Thanks. I was trying not to get in too deep on the "how to" and concentrate on the "what order" or "where to use" that's why I didn't get into taping etc. Honestly I was getting a little confused with where the new HGG would/should fit into my own regiment, forget about explaining to others who are converting from one bucket washes with dish soap and then an annual turtle wax.... Good point on the Americana, I'll add that to the notes area there Never thought about the matte finishes for the washes, can any of the wash products (red/blue soap, rinseless, diluted rinseless / waterless) not be used on the matte paints or stripes? I didn't think they left anything behind (I have no matte bits to deal with at this point) Another good point, I just put to dress the trim on the correction. I guess I should call it out better (vrt) and add one to the start of the protection section also. Not needed for the quick sealant or detail spray but pretty much anything else could be an issue. Thanks, I'll add those M

I was trying to put together a list of general product guidelines to give to some of my car buddies who are getting into Adams products. These weren't meant to be instructions on how to use, more like when/what to use. Please let me know if there are any glaring errors I missed. Adams Product Use V2.pdf

Thanks It's definitely clean, just stained. M

Long story short, someone ran into my DD in a parking lot. nice long dent / crease in the door and several 1 - 2 foot long scratches / smudge marks above and below it where their bumper rubbed into my door. I just needed to make it look somewhat better until I can get the damage fixed. Severe Swirl (old green stuff I had) Swirl and then fine polish, ended up running around the whole truck with a quick swirl and fine then gave it a coat of liquid sealant. Got rid of the big smudges and it looks a lot less noticeable (nice shiny dent now) Cleaned everything and I'm wondering about the white pad. All the rest look basically new but the white is grey, light to light-medium but definitely grey. Used a pad washer (DIY version but it works well) all purpose cleaner, then by hand, massaging the cleaner into the pad, rinsed and re-rinsed, probably went through 1/4 bottle of APC that's just the color it is. Will it lighten as it dries? How are yours? M

Seriously guys, back on topic here Can you clean soap soap with soap soap or do you need to use soap to clean soap soap? In other words, will I need 1 or 2 new buckets? M

I've given a few of them a coat of SVRT, if nothing else they look good before I covered them with reflectix Thanks M

I've never used the in&out (seems like permanent back order up here or something, maybe because it's aerosol?) Brother is going down to Charlotte in April, maybe he can pick me up a can. Sounds like it's good for engine compartment also so,,, Thanks M

OK, so I've got several rubber boot type parts on the interior and motor compartment. Some of the parts are buried up under the dash and never seen but will any of the Adams products work to keep them protected and soft? Normally I'd use 303 on these but since I've got various bottles of VRT, interior detail, leather conditioner etc, maybe one of them would be better?? Also, along those lines, inside the car there is the heater box, basically black/grey fiberglass. Anything to keep a nice black look to it? (VRT?) Thanks M

That's a great result, my OCD totally gets it and approves M

Rinseless it is Thanks M

Friend of mine just had his car painted and clear coated (water based paint) The shop did "bake" the paint so that helped somewhat Two things happened so far One, when the car was being loaded and unloaded into the enclosed trailer it was lightly snowing (seem like every day now) so it got a little wet (very light snow, just enough to leave drops here and there) Two, since he's putting everything back together (totally gutted the car) there has been lots of dust moving around as things have been unboxed and people have come and gone in the shop. So, the car has a light haze of dust and a handful of smudges etc. I know it can't be waxed, sealed, or even detail sprayed for something along the lines of 60 or 90 days depending on who you talk to. What about rinseless wash? (Nope, don't have any waterless wash and can't get any soon) M