Mooser

1 box 2x detail spray (apple scent, might be right and they are over stocked?) 2x waffle weave towels (old style) 1x double soft towel (old style) Roughly $80 worth of stuff at retail price. Didn't really need more detail spray right now (along with the mystery box was an order for a gallon and of course got the free 16oz bonus with it so I'm likely ok for a bit but I can give some to my brother or buddy and pass along the addiction Can always use more towels M

Once the mystery box is purchased, give the weight or size or something (not the contents) to the buyer and then ask if they want to keep it or trade it for what's inside box #2...

Mystery box is on the Canadian Site right now, Guess Dexter was paying attention

Sideways Thread Highjack The cord on my new cyclo is really stiff (all the kinks from being folded stay there) If it was older I'd change it to a more flexible (and longer) one. Anyone have any ideas on dealing with that? As for the cord/shoulder thing, I've thought about just taking an old (or new) soft MF towel and making a sleeve to go over the last few feet of the cord and let the touch the car (how lazy is that?) But then forget about it and only remember I was going to try that as I'm polishing the next thing and it's too late.

Yeah I'm not going to go as far as to remove the seats or anything, it's just the DD and there is too much electrical junk hanging under there for my liking. I think I've got a solution worked out if I can get it to connect to my existing shop vac. There are a few companies that sell metal crevice tools. By the looks of them they are thinner than the plastic ones and can certainly be re-shaped a little thinner if needed. Got one source up here in Ont. I need to contact tomorrow and see what they have in stock Thanks for the ideas M

Yes it for the vacuum. I can't get at it from the back because of where the pillar is between the doors prevents the current tool I'm using from reaching regardless of the seat position and from the front, it's the front of the seat, even in the farthest back position. Maybe I can find a longer crevice tool M

My wifes DD is a 2011 Malibu. Today was the first nice day we've had in quite awhile and I tackled the interior to get a winters worth of crud out. (actually wasn't very bad at all, weathertech mats are great at keeping the salt off the carpet.) Anyway, between the seat and the sill-plate there is a small gap that's fairly deep and various things have fallen in. You can see them but neither crevice tools I have for the shop-vac will actually fit down into that area. I've even got one that I've heated and squashed flatter and it's still to big to do much. Before I start trying to modify something, is there an off-the-shelf solution already out there? M

Currently still using the PC but looking to upgrade to something a little better. I simply can't warrant having a $1100 worth of buffers for the two cars I do once a year and the odd scratch I might take out of someone else car now and again, but would still like something not as shaky as the PC which has served me well for the last 5 or 6 by switching from 6" to 4" pads to get into some of the tighter areas/curves. Guess I'm not serious enough Thanks M

This is the kind of thing I'm up against (not this car in particular) The area around the hood scoop. between and around the headlights The halo area behind the t-tops Can't justify 2 new buffers (rupes 75 + something else). Looks like I'll have to keep an eye out for a cyclo Thanks M

The mini might be good for getting into specific areas (which I have lots of) but I'm certainly not looking to polish the entire car with one I guess what I'm looking at is with a 5" backer, 6" pad and 5/8" of stroke, if the hood has a raised "cowl induction" section down the middle, and the flat section on either side of it that's only 5" wide, does a rupes work fine in that situation? M

How small of an area could you do with a Rupes 15? Looking at stuff line narrow fender tops, b-pillars etc. what would sort of a minimum flat panel could you expect to do on a regular basis? I talked myself out of picking up a cyclo back awhile ago hoping to stumble across a used one but I'm having some non-buyers regret M

There are several pieces of real wood veneer trim on the interior of my car. The wood is finished with polyurethane clear. What's the opinion on using something like americana now and then and upkeep with interior detailer? M

And it's done. Everyone's happy, zero drama, zero mess, zero damage, and eight new meguires shop towels. For future reference, grinding dust, like most things when in fine enough form.... actually floats!!!!! Blew the car off with compressed air (lowest pressure their regulator went was 30psi) Went and started to pre-saok the car with a 8:1 rinseless and you could actually see the grit/dust run with the solution. Lightbulb.. grabbed a bottle of rinseless at 16:1 (clay lube) and soaked the car from top down (used two bottles). Used the compressed air again to push the remaining solution off. Car looked real good, gave it a quick "normal" rinseless once over and it's as good as it's gonna get. Honestly the towels would probably be just fine after a wash but they were nearing their life cycle anyway so now they'll be "good" shop towels. Gotta like it when something that appears daunting actually goes your way M

That's the plan, low pressure blow off first, trying not to turn it into a sand-blaster LOL Anyway, I'll let you know how it works out, hopefully back this afternoon. After the initial WTF!, now that I've actually had a look and thought it over I don't foresee any issues. Worse comes to worse it's a correction (minor) in the spring M

Under closer to normal circumstances I'd agree. But they paint and weld and all kinds of stuff in this shop and normally this car is covered. Someone left the cover off and they were grinding some metal bars in the back of the other bay and before anyone noticed it was too late. Can't put the cover back on without cleaning, can't leave it uncovered or it'll get way worse stuff on it soon. I think it's gonna be just fine. The grit is from the grinding wheel I'd say (nothing stuck to a magnet and they were grinding cold rolled steel rod ends) and it's a super fine layer that appears to be just sitting there, so it's a matter of floating enough product on there to try to protect the paint (bright white thank goodness) I've got a supply of ok quality MF clothes that are about to become shop rags Thanks to all

No hose or drains in the garage so a regular wash isn't possible. M

I've got to go and try to clean off a car that's in a friends shop. Problem 1 - the car is in a back corner and cannot move (no hose washing) Problem 2 - the car is covered in a very fine layer of "dust". Problem 3 - The "dust" is grit from metal grinding done in another part of the shop that has settled on most everything around I was going to bring a couple of buckets, lots of towels and do a low pressure air-blow off and then rinseless wash. Unless anyone want's to talk me into another option M

Weird, I would have thought they (grit-guard) already made these since the dirt-droppers have been around for awhile. Also a must have for cleaning the tire and fender well brushes. M

Welcome from another Ontarian M

There are test kits available, check online or a local water treatment store. If your on municipal water, the town should be able to supply test results if you ask. For a quick and dirty check, run your water for a few minutes and fill an empty drinking water bottle about 1/4 full, add a a little bit (1/4 tsp or so) of basic dish soap (the more basic the better, like that stuff they clean oil off the animals when there is a spill) cap it and shake. if the water stays basically clear and the foam is all fluffy, water is fine, if the water is milky and not much foam or it flattens out quick, the water is hard HIH M

I've already spent enough on various bottles/sprayers/pumps. Need to hold off until some stability sets in I'm re-assessing my current selection of bottles and chemicals to see what I can combine into safe vs usage and hopefully find a happy medium somewhere Thanks for the input M

So I've got a fair number of spray heads here as well as a few Kwazar bottles (so far only the one that had the APC in it fell apart) and a small bottle glovebox sized bottle of APC that split at the seam. Turns out there are 4 different spray heads, are any of these the ones I should be using or avoiding? Before I drop half a bottle of who knows what into or onto paint/carpet/leather/fabric is there any combination of bottle / sprayer / chemical that should be avoided? I'm beginning to wonder if there should be a list somewhere of "don't store this in that" or "this is best used for that" So anyway, are there some of these better suited for the trash?

Try a small spot with some acetone (or nail polish remover but the old style unsafe stuff not the new odor free gentle stuff). Put it on, wipe a little and let it flash off on its own, then clean as normal. If that doesn't take it I think you'll have to go to a mechanical method (0000 steel wool & lube) I've never tried any of the finishing polishes on glass but it might work. Several companies make windshield polishing products and pads. M

I wasn't questioning your process, results, how many years experience someone had or try to compare gel-coat to paint. Just wanted to give another product I've come across since you asked if "Anyone have success with anything else for tough to remove adhesive?" M

Just for future reference. There's another product called goof-off, comes in a small metal can similar to the old lighter fluid cans. It's a more industrial form of remover and whenever I've found goo-gone to not be working this stuff does. Had to remove some factory decals from an outboard and they left most of the adhesive on the fiberglass. WD40 did nothing but create a mess Varsol did nothing Goo-Gone did nothing Goof Off and some paper towel (let it sit wet for a few minutes) lifted the adhesive off and didn't hurt the paint. As always, start with the least aggressive (goo-gone) and work your way up, test in inconspicuous place, your mileage may very... M