Usa

Cleaning didn't fix anything, sent an email to Orders@AdamsPolishes.com .. thanks!

Just to be clear, mine didn't crack.. the nozzle mechanism somehow got gunked up on the inside and is unusable.

I will attempt the above suggestions, it's just really annoying because I know that's going to waste a lot of product. Thanks guys!

Hi guys, I'm not sure if this has happened to anyone else but the recent update to the Polishing bottle line has been a nice addition, however I have noticed the the nozzle on my Paint Correcting Polish is now gunked up throughout the mechanism. Every time I go to squeeze out solution, the nozzle sticks at the bottom and I have to use two hands to pull it up and there is usually polish coming up with it which makes it really messy and annoying. I store them upright, never compressed, and haven't experienced any weird falls/drops. I've just reordered two new sets as the Paint Finishing is starting to do it as well, not sure if I got a bad batch or what but just curious if this has happened to anyone else Edit: On a side note, I ordered an Adam's T-Shirt to rep you guys on the next time I get pulled for another job!

Shot of detail spray, maybe use the pad cleaning brush to move the crusties around and you should be good to go

He definitely used too much soap soap in those buckets

When mine dried and could not be reached directly on the panel, I gave the rubber trim a good whipe down with the double plush microfiber and they all seemed to just drop out naturally.. didn't have to use any spray, the flakes just fell out under direct pressure of the towel

Had one detail spray cap break on me but that's about it, they sent me 3 new ones.

I will have to try that next time Jason. I also noticed someone said that you don't have to remove the correcting polish before applying the finish polish but I wasn't 100% sure on that so I had to wipe both residues off which bogged down my double soft.. couldn't have done it without 2.

Well it's been a productive last couple days for me, using only Adam's products I was able to take my car from a ~85% to a ~95% Steps I used: Two bucket wash at a local self service car wash (no car washing allowed at my complex) Rinseless car wash mix 16:1 spray to wipe down dusty areas from driving home Detail spray + Clay bar (and a hit of Deep wheel cleaner in the rougher areas) Two-step correction with Cyclo (Foam and Microfiber pads.. yes 4 passes each oops!) Wipe down with a double-plush microfiber Paint sealant by Machine (speed setting of 3) Let it cure for an hour, wiped off and let it sit over night Woke up in the morning and used the hand-applicator to apply Buttery Wax Things I've learned: - Test area is to determine whether foam or microfiber is the better option, don't have to use both! oops - Use a foam pad with the focus drill to hit the deeper scratched areas first before making a normal pass on that section with the Cyclo (seriously felt like this was the best money spent on the drill attachment) - Slinging polish is no joke and will happen if you re-apply detail spray to the pad, get an awkward angle, or fail to move around the gooped up portions of the polish - If you sling polish, clean it up within a couple minutes or it will harden and be harder to remove from panels/windows - I need to work on my polishing pattern, discipline was pretty weak in that I may not have covered each area equally Here's some pictures Everything unpacked First pass, I picked too large of an area to work with just starting out! Finished Results Spy two buckets? Awesome!

SOAP SOAP

It's tomorrow. I'll wager a 12-oz bottle of detail spray, anyone up for a bet!

$500+ job! Post pics, im sure it will be the first "rig" detailed on Adams

Idk but it better smell like grape.

Thanks for the info Doc! What pad would be best? Does it matter?

I have some tougher water spots that I want to add extra attention to on my next detail that wont come off with simple claying.

So, if I wanted to use the Cyclo on glass what products/pads would you recommend for a light abrasive to cut through water spots and "road film" as depicted in this video.

In other words, I see Orange for Paint Correcting... White for Paint finishing.. Black for Sealant/Wax.. and Red for glazing.. My question is, do they have different cutting properties (excluding microfiber) or are they just color coded for our convenience? Second, if I wanted to use the Cyclo on glass what products/pads would you recommend for a light abrasive to cut through water spots and "road film" as depicted in this video. Thank you everyone, learned so much in the past couple days from you guys and really looking forward to my first polishing experience.

Does Adam's plan on adding any Fine/Medium Grade Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads for the Cyclo for windows?

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Adams-Ultimate-Fire-Hose-Car-Wash-Nozzle_p_507.html

Nice car man.

I have too in the past (since I didn't own a polisher) .. and Buttery goes on so.. buttery that I may just have to continue by hand thanks

Cool, so just ensure a good even spread of the sealant.. wait 30 minutes (or until dry) wipe off with a double soft.. then apply the Buttery with the same technique

Would it be wise, when claying.. to use a 1:1 ratio of water/deep wheel cleaner as the lubricant? Or is that mixture supposed to be sprayed on.. let it sit for 5 minutes... then continue with the clay/detail spray around the car?

What is a good setting on the Cyclo? Will the paint sealant "flash" or how will I know when that section is complete, what am I looking for? Another random question but, after applying sealant and waiting 30 minutes for it the cure can I then apply the buttery wax on as well? Would I use the same process as applying paint sealant in terms of cyclo speed / light pressure? Also, would I use a fresh set of the same (black) pads? Thanks!