jswhite

Definitely not acceptable but better.  I'll probably get it repainted next month.

Sorry for the delay.  Finally got car back into garage.  First pic is before.  Second pic is after.  Still doesn't look great (lighting doesn't help) but it looks much much better in the sunlight.  I hope you can see the difference.   Remember I only used FP.   Last pic is the driver side door that has to get repainted.  

1 hour ago, falcaineer said:

 

Glad it worked out! Any new pics?

Yes but it was in direct sunlight.  I need to pull it into the garage so I a can show it under the same lighting as the previous pics.   I'll probably do that today.

1 hour ago, RayS said:

Based on having more than one place where you have a clear coat failure, I would recommend have the entire vehicle repainted.  It is really the only way to ensure you won't end up with another failed area in the near future.  In addition, trying to get a partial repaint to fully match it nearly impossible since they will fade at different rates.

Thanks for the advice.  You are probably right but this is an 8 year old car with 150,000 miles on it.  The second body shop guy very quickly said the front door was a bad repaint job.  I bought the car used in 2015 and it had a clear CarFax...  This might also explain the hood.  The rest of the car looks pretty good given the age of the car; the body shop guy even commented on it. 

On 9/3/2019 at 6:57 AM, falcaineer said:

 

I mention Revive because it's least aggressive and a paint cleaner, so if it helps it could indicate oxidation vs. something worse like clear coat failure.

 

I recommend you take it to  a local paint shop and see what they say. I had the same thing happen to me, took it to a paint shop, and discovered it was indeed clear coat failure (also on a black car). I wound up selling the car before taking additional measures (note: a repaint isn't necessarily what led me to sell it, but it did weigh into the equation).

 

If you move forward without the paint shop, and you're prepared financially for a repaint, you could bust out the polisher and see what happens. Start with Finishing Polish, if available, and work your way up. Just understand when you polish you're removing clear coat, so if it is failing, you're expediting that process and could even burn the rest of the way through.

Took it to a couple of body shops to look at the hood and the driver's side door (major clear coat failure).  The first body shop said they wouldn't touch it because taking the door handle off would trigger the car alarm and only the Land Rover dealer (Its a 2011 and the closest is 2 hours away) could reset it.  I asked couldn't they just tape it off and he said no way.  I took that as code for he doesn't want to mess with it at all (lazy).  I took it to another local paint shop.   They quoted $1,000 and 5 days to do both.  I asked him about the door handle issue and he looked at me funny and said, "We would just tape it off..." like it was no big deal.  I chuckled.   The door looks awful so I have to do something.

I was concerned that polishing it would make the clear coat damage worse.  Now knowing that I have a repaint of the hood and door in my future, I took @falcaineer's advice and polished the hood with Finishing Polish.  It definitely made a difference.  The clear coat damage is still there, the swirls are still there but the mottled haziness on the hood went away.  I threw a coat of paint sealant (by hand - don't have that pad yet) on there and it did not streak as it did previously.  All in all, it looks much much better plus I got in some practice with the polisher!  I'm thinking that the haziness was a mix of oxidation and clear coat failure.  Polishing just knocked out the oxidation.  I might go back and hit it with Correcting Polish to see if it improves it even more and to get some more "risk free" practice.

Thanks again for all the advice!

8 hours ago, falcaineer said:

 

Sorry, but I lean towards clear coat failure. Only way to fix it, if so, is a repaint. If you have Revive, you could try it to see if it rlos oxidation. But again, looks like failure to me.

I have some Revive.  How would that indicate it if it is oxidation or not?

5 hours ago, Norton said:

That definitely does not look like "streaks." The blotchy appearance leads me to agree with Chris, regarding possible clear coat failure, but believe any attempt to polish should be made with something more aggressive than Revive and a hand applicator. I suggest trying an orbital with Correcting (or even Heavy Correcting) Polish and appropriate pad. While doubtful it can be resurrected, that might delay wrapping or repainting.

Just to clarify, this is the way the hood looks after a car wash without any additional toppings.  (I should have noted that in the photos.) The streaks occur when I try to put something on top of it. 

Is it safe to machine polish it?  I was worried that polishing it might make it look worse if it is truly clear coat failure.  I'm dying to bust out the new polisher and this could be a great first project!

Thanks to all of you for your replies.

Finally got around to taking some pics of the hood.

Is this clear coat failure or oxidation?

2 minutes ago, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

Do you have any pictures?

I'll take some and post.

7 hours ago, Rich said:

Are you using a machine or by hand?  You may need to use a polisher.

Hand.  Polisher should arrive today!

Not matter what product I use on my hood, it streaks.  On the rest of the car, everything looks great.  The hood on the other hand is a PITA.  I know the clear coat is starting to fail.  Could that be the cause?  The only way to remove the streaks (Brillant Glaze, Buttery Wax, H2O G&G, etc.) is either claying or using revive hand polish.  Even detail spray leaves streaks.  In any ideas what is causing this and what a potential remedy might be?

Brilliant Glaze on the inside of the window is the best product hack ever!  Tried it for the first time a few weeks ago and is now part of my normal routine.

@LFairbanks - thanks for the information!

Ok did you buy this Rover brand new? The only time I see streaking is when a hood has been repainted and yes it can be after market paint from the factory the only way to know for sure if it's been repainted is to get it measured with a paint gauge

Bought it used with about 38k miles on it.  I don't think it has been repainted.

Here is a photo of the spot on my car after being washed and H2OGG applied .  I had to use my phone to block out the reflection of the sky!  The car has never been machine polished just Revive Hand Polished.  

It is a black 2010 LR4.  The hood is very temperamental with things like detail spray and H2OGG.  It streaks very easily and it is hard to remove the streaks.  I have to use a dry double soft or triple soft to basically wipe them off.  It is frustrating...

All that to say, I think this spot is the same type as the Original Poster's.  

Is there a thread that shows photos of different types of paint damage with suggestions on how to repair? Might be a nice resource.

Ok for you in formation this is not a burn from the pad, this is a burn from bird ****, when you went over to correct it, the fluid filled up the pores to make it visible. I'm a pro I've seen this many times, the wax and correcting compound enhances damage like this after a detail.

 

So yes you have damage and no it wasn't caused by your lack of knowledge or lack of use.

 

So don't be so hard on your self, pat your self on the back, you did a good job!

I have a spot like this on my car.  Is there anyway to correct this without taking it to a shop?

That is all.

Your car looks really great!  Thinking about getting the Cyclo myself and then adding the Rupes Mini down the road for those hard to reach spaces.

SOLID transformations - wow - machine or by hand?

I was wondering the same thing myself.  Either way, how would use a machine to get in those tight space?  Would you use something like a Micro or Nano?

Thanks for all the responses.  I am not going to even call them.  I washed and clayed that side and followed it up with Revive and Buttery wax.  It is actually much much better.  It is amazing what even a hand polish can accomplish!

Sorry, I should have included that detail.  I have not noticed the holograms on the passenger side.  The passenger front door is new.  They painted the door and then blended the paint in on that side of the car.  That side of the car looks fine.

Thanks.

Backstory...My car is a Black 2011 Land Rover LR4 that I bought used back in June.  It has some scratches and swirls that need to be corrected with a polisher but I have used Revive on it, which improved it some.  Two weeks ago, I took my car to the body shop for a repair on the front passenger door.  I picked the car up at night and didn't notice anything special. When I got up the next morning, I saw holograms all down the driver's side of the car.  I have never noticed the holograms before now and it is very noticeable.  Not good.

Questions...

1) Before I call the body shop and let them have it, it is possible that these may have always been there but with the change of seasons and the angle of sun changing they now are visible?  

2) Would a body shop ever use a buffer on the opposite side of the car from where they were working?

3) If the body shop is the cause of the holograms, would you trust them to fix it?  If not, what would you recommend as a course of action?  

This might be good reason/excuse to buy a Cyclo or Rupes....

Thanks!

New Adams Customer (~2 months) and finally had the chance to wax my 2011 Black LR4.

• Wash
• Clay
• Revive Hand Polish
• H2O GG
• Buttery Wax

All I can say is WOW.  It is super shiny.  The paint needs to be machine polished but the hand polish definitely made an improvement.  My  question now is how often would you clay, apply the H20 GG, the Revive Hand Polish and the Buttery Wax?

My plan is:

1. Clay every 6 months
2. H2O GG every other wash (every 2 weeks or so)
3. Revive Hand Polish and Butter Wax every 6-8 weeks

I think once I run out of these products I'll step up to some more protective LSPs.  I'll probably try to machine polish in the fall or winter when it is not so hot outside!  Suggestions are welcome!

Thanks in advance.

Sounds like a plan!  Thanks for all the help!

I used the glass sealant for the first time yesterday and followed the procedures on the video, etc.  I went for a drive about 3 hours afterwards.  A bug hit the windshield and I hit the wipers just to see if the bug would come off (did not use fluid).  When the wipers made their pass the whole window became smeared from the wipers (not the bug...).  It had to be the sealant smearing.  So, I am wondering:

1) Is it possible I used too much product even though I wiped it all off?

2) Should I have let it cure more than the 30 seconds to a minute that I did let it cure?

3) Is it the wiper blades?  I bought this car used so I don't know how old the wipers are.

I will say that the sealant definitely works as I had to use wiper fluid to clear the window and the fluid shot off the window almost before the blades could spread it!

As a follow on question, should I redo the process (clay, etc) to reapply the product?

Thanks in advance!

It's been done at Best Buy!