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Posts posted by Red Rambler
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I was told in the February-March time frame for the red throwback shampoo. I am waiting as well
- falcaineer and Dani
- 2
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Yes, you should upgrade. Your hands will thank you.
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6 hours ago, mc2hill said:
I took my own advice and picked on of the Gorilla work platforms at Home Depot today forth sale price. It did not ring on sale, but the cashier gave me the sale price. I will let my wife 'give' it to me for Christmas!
I picked one of these up as well. For the money this is a great buy. Sure beats a bucket or standing on my tire and quality is pretty decent imo. I might get a sheet of grip tape for it, just for safety.
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Is the ultra foam shampoo going to be a normal product at some point? Or is it only limited edition?
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Very nice job. I was curious when somebody would post a review. I am going to have to purchase a bottle of this now and give it a go. I like your comment on very easy to remove. What was the temperature like when doing this? I find at times the hotter it is the harder some polishes are to remove.
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- zapdon, mc2hill, falcaineer and 2 others
- 5
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My dodge suffers from milky looking trim being faded and white. I purchased the ceramic kit a few weeks ago, and was super excited to see the black trim restorer. I have not applied the ceramic trim kit yet, and after learning these two products could be layered I jumped right in. I have washed my trim after removing it, cleaned with tire/rubber, coating prep and have applied the black trim restorer. I was very impressed with the color change so far. My next step after curing for 24 hours is to apply the ceramic trim coating. Application of the trim restorer is easy enough. The actual application goes on smoothly. I found myself not having to apply very much pressure to obtain even coverage. I did go over each piece with two coats as the trim does have ridges. This product gets a 10/10 for application. Also a little goes a long ways.
Before
After cleaning
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Per Adams "The trim restorer takes 6 hours to dry, and you can apply ceramic at that time without damaging anything, however it is recommended to allow trim restorer a 12-24 hour period before applying ceramic"
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Following. I was just about to ask that question myself
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33 minutes ago, GerryC said:
Seems to be working fine for me; looks like the stylesheet isn't loading for you. Is it just the settings page or all of the forum pages? Do you have an adblocker enabled? Does pressing CTRL + F5 (hard refresh) fix it?
The whole forum is that format. Pressing CTRL+F5 doesn't fix it.
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I have cleared my cache and history, but no luck. Any suggestions?
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13 minutes ago, Beemer said:
Looks like a normal website to me. In 1993.
Haha. When I was 7!
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I have an 80 gallon compressor and I have read you can use the Ridgid vacuum as a blowing versus sucking function as well. I might give both of those options a go. Thanks.
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Very good job, outstanding results
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Good video for winter prep:
- Jbright, slapshot87, falcaineer and 2 others
- 5
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You’ll need to reapply protection after claying
Thanks Dustin!
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I always seem to have some suds left over in my wash bucket or foam gun. It works well to clay with. This might fit another thread but can a person clay over guard and gloss or is there a need to reapply after claying?
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Scratches.
And what I have on hand didn't even touch them.
Dang, I thought they were crayon. Scratches!!!! That is a tough one.
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+4 for Interior Detailer and Edgeless Utility microfiber. Just leave one of those clean microfibers in the glove box to take care of rain drops on your door panels and such.
Nice tip! Thanks
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You don't really need to reapply any protection if you just applied Leather Conditioner two weeks ago.
Just vacuum the dust off. Wipe any fingerprints or smudges with Interior Detailer. Then reapply Leather Conditioner every two months or so. I will often reapply once a month to just the areas that get more contact (driver seat, console, armrest) then do the whole interior every 2-3 months.
Be careful with the brush attachment that came with your vacuum. The bristles are coarse and can scratch smooth plastic trim pieces and gauge screens. Pick up a soft one like this:
Shop-Vac 9018000 1 1/4-Inch Soft Bristle Auto Brush, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F1BYJZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xiRWzb1TA2900
Thanks Dan, sounds like a great course of action. I will do just that. I also purchased the pro hose, which is 1 7/8" if I recall correctly. Pretty sure it comes with an adapter that will adapt down to 1 1/4". It is all boxed up, haven't even taken it out of the box yet.
This hose:
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Vacuum the light dust off, using a soft brush attachment. Its faster than a wipe-down.
Even when I am going to do apply Leather Conditioner or Interior Detailer, I always vacuum first. This keeps from getting buldup in the cracks and crevices over time from wiping the dust around.
Only use the Leather & Interior Cleaner on dirty or soiled areas, not on light dust. It is a strong cleaner and should only be used for heavy cleaning, not for regular, weekly maintenance cleanings.
Thank you Dan. I just purchased a Ridgid WD4070, so that will give me a reason to use if for the 1st time. So which would be better to apply, the interior detailer or the leather conditioner? I have already applied the leather conditioner two weeks ago.
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I always reapply the LC at least on the dash and the tops of the door panels. Mainly for the added scent but the extra protection helps.
Thanks Chris, the added scent is so delightful. I guess at this point I am undecided which avenue I take. I was just afraid the interior detailer might remove some of the Leather Conditioner. I guess i will use the interior detailer and step #2 apply the Leather Conditioner to the top of the dash, and door panels as you suggested.
Waterless Wash Questions
in Washing, Drying, and Decontamination
Posted · Edited by Red Rambler
I would say yes, you can do a buffer polish after doing a rinseless wash, as you will need to fully clay the vehicle in question prior to touching the buffer. I would suggest a more thorough two bucket wash however to ensure you are starting with a completely clean slate, and no matter the wash method, a clay bar is essential to remove all contaminants as a final step prior to polishing.