Red Rambler

Thanks all. Appreciate the feedback.

Welcome, you will have a Wale of a time here!

I received a gallon of glass cleaner in my MB, my question is has anybody attempted to dilute it 1:1 with distilled water? Or should I just use it full strength?

Welcome, I too am fairly new. Don't forget to add to your cart, the ceramic trim coating.

Sexy!  I think I am going to have to do a PC on my work truck now!  

Thanks Ryan, this was my first go at PC, so this was my guinea pig. It has a few dents/dings, so this was the best vehicle to start with. My wife's Subaru is next. I was really surprised though how well it turned out. I'm proud of it!

The other side. I still need to get the undercarriage spray and do my fenderwells. I am very pleased with the results as the paint was pretty far gone. I think I will continue to do the two bucket wash and apply the g&g often.

I completed my paint correction roughly a week ago and then went on a cruise so my truck sit for a week. Tonight I was able to wash and apply guard and gloss afterwards.

Welcome.

Nice herd and garage as others have stated.

Welcome!

In my experience and after watching many videos I experienced dusting as well. It was user error on my end. Too much product, Less is more.

Yeah I do it almost all the time. The reason some people use it is because after the heavy correcting compound they still have very light correction to do so they use the correcting polish.

That makes sense. Thanks for the help.

Yes, you can skip it. I would unless you find that you need to do more correction. But normally I skip from the correcting compound (blue) to the finishing polish (white).

 

Also yes, that wipe down is used to remove polish residue before applying a sealant, however, Adams finishing polish kind of preps the surface so you don’t need to do that with Adams, only if you want or are applying a ceramic coating.

Thanks Nathan. I will for sure give it a go. If your doing say a hood, and stepping down hitting all colors of polish takes a while. Not looking to cut corners but rather not waste product as well as save time, just wanted to ensure it wasnt a no no.

That is your call.  If it meets your expectations after following up the Correcting Polish with the FP, then that is all you need to do.  Try a test spot to see.

Thanks Michael. Makes sense. I assumed the least amount of steps to get the paint much improved the better.

Being new to the paint correcting scene, I have a few more questions. When using the Blue Correcting polish, can I go straight to the white finishing polish, or do i need to step down to the orange polish and then the white polish as a person would do with grits of sand paper?

Also the 50/50 iso alcohol & water, that is for stripping all wax/polish off, correct?

Thanks Chris!

Can i get mine changed to Red Rambler.

Today was a pretty awesome day as I received my two bucket wash kit, new pads, and my swirl killer. I couldn't wait to use it so I corrected a few panels. It is as good as everyone has stated and then some, vibration is very low and the foot print is quite large. I will for sure be using the heck out of it. In comparison to the PC, I would say night and day difference. So much smoother for me. I will upload some pictures upon completion on my paint correction. Super excited about the SK.

Amazing results. I hope you didn't use compressed air to dry it, rather took it for a quick spin to blow the water off, just kidding.

I have some good news, after using my PC on the hood and taking me nearly two hours, and almost that long for my hands to feel normal I went ahead and purchased the SK today. Waiting for it to arrive to continue doing the paint correction. I will be using it on my wife's Subaru next and I keep reading how it has very little vibration and it corrects so much quicker than the PC, so I cant help but want to have that same experience, I shall know soon. Who knows, maybe do a few corrections on other vehicles at some point.

Sure thing. The BW is good stuff, just understand it won't last as long as a sealant (or coating, if you want to go that route). I recommend this article, http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27631-faq-should-i-use-wax-or-sealant-on-my-car/, if you haven't read it yet, to help you decide what to use in the future.

Awesome! I think some people don’t skip it because sometimes there is still correction to do.

 

Definitely have more protection than wax. Wax is not known for protection anymore. I would get a sealant on (PS or H20 guard) and then top with buttery wax.

 

If you want really good protection and amazing hydrophobic properties look into ceramic coatings!

I have been applying the paint sealant and a coat of buttery wax on top of the paint sealant. My steps are Clay Bar, Blue or Orange correcting polish, followed by White Finishing polish, Paint Sealant, and Buttery wax a a final step. The initial reason I bought the PC was to apply the Paint Sealant, and I knew I would do a Paint Correction at some point, which is now. I have applied the Paint Sealant a few times to my truck over the past year, but it was applied over the scratches which I am attempting to correct now. I will check out the link, thanks guys for the help. Having fun doing this. I want to get the ceramic coating for my trim: Ceramic Coating

Agreed with the others, you can use the orange CP with the blue/white MF cutting pad. The orange/black one is no longer being sold on their site.

Also, get one of the pad cleaning brushes to help lift the fibers, like what Nathan pointed out, and also to help clean them.

Nice lookin' truck. Can't wait to see more pics of the finished product!

Thanks Chris. I do have the bristle brush and usually put my PC on speed 2 and hold my brush to the pad. I had the old blue clay and was using the white clay tool with it. The blue clay was brand new but wow. The white clay is so much more pliable compared to the blue. I will be glad to get a final coat of buttery wax on it. I will for sure get a few pics.

You could use the correcting polish with the microfiber cutting pad, but I would not use it like that. Microfiber pads tend to heat up and to push the fibers down, and make the microfiber flat, so they don’t cut as fast or work as well. I would try the correcting polish (orange) with the orange foam pad first, then if you need stronger use the correcting compound (blue) with the microfiber cutting pad.

It would be safe to use and would work, but I wouldn’t do it.

Also, invade you didn’t know, you don’t need to do 3 steps, you can skip from the correcting compound to the finishing polish, that is if you have removed all the defects.

Thanks Nathan. I worked on the hood today. Took me at least two hours. It needed the blue correcting compound. It turned out very nice. I was curious about skipping from the blue to the white polish so thanks for that info.

Oh the new white microfiber pads are supposed to cut a little better, and also easier to clean off the residue compared to the old pads. And they just switched the color to match the blue heavy compound. But you can still use the orange polish with the white microfiber pads if needed.

Thanks Chonke, exactly what i was wondering. I assume it would still be safe to use the orange polish and new white microfiber pads as the blue Heavy Correcting Compound itself is likely to cut quicker than the orange paint correcting polish regardless of the pad used.

 

 

Microfiber pads have more cutting power than foam pads, so its better suited for the blue heavy correcting compound. But theres no rule saying you cant mix them up. Just be careful any time you use a microfiber pad on paint, and dont let it heat up.

 

10-4. Thanks i guess my question would have been better suited asking, what replaced the orange pad below?