DREWBUSH

I use an old one I bought years ago, its seen better days. It has threads pulled up causing bunching, but it still works pretty well for drying. I do need to constantly ring it out when using it though. And it does not get all the water off first pass. I usually will make a quick pass and get the majority of the water off, then make a second pass and get all the residual moisture off. Towel is old, so it may not be as effective as it once was. On a side note, I have just purchased 4 MF plush towels and starting to use those as my drying towels(on a recommendation from someone that details more than me), and so far so good. Its only been one use, and the towels are still new. So a few more washes before I decide if its the technique I want to start using.

If the product was dry on your hands, your probably ok. Just keep an eye on them for a bit. Its always good practice to wash up before playing or petting your animals. Mine are always curious and want to taste anything that smells somewhat sweet. I dont see them getting severally ill by just licking my hand that smells like product, but if there was any wet product on my hand or the ground and then they consumed it, I would watch them for a while. I have one dog that has an iron stomach and never gets sick, another one just smells it and is out side yacking. So I usually will not let my dogs in the same area with me if I am using chemicals of any sort. I prop up one of those kid gates in front of the garage door, so they can see in but not enter.

also when driving, turn your ac on(have the compressor operating, doesnt have to be cold, just whatever temp you like) and set the system to recirculate. That way, you keep running the interior air volume over the evaporator and help to remove some of the moisture that is in the interior.

will it cut LPS? I had a hell of a time getting one of my microfiber applicators clean, even soaking it APC for days. And yes, I did load the pad up pretty good with LPS, layed down a pretty heavy coat.

Welcome to the forums. Im also in OC, Costa Mesa.

I hear you on that, I work at a dealer and even after removing the vinyl protective wrap, I can still see crap on the paint. Sometimes the wrap isnt sitting perfect and water and dirt get under it. Oh, and I like your screen name.

I have a California Car Cover sitting on my Tundra. Had it for over 10 years. It also sits outside in the driveway with the elements and has not scratched the paint. It works great at keeping the bird crap and my neighbors tree sap off of it. I have a deluxe version- dont remember which model, but I need to take it to the laudromat to wash it. I also add a water repellant chemical that I found at the ski shop for keeping your ski gear dry. Sheds water in the rain, breathes during the day.

theres this old video on the youtube adams channel that might help.

Trying to press the clay into the tool gets annoying quickly. But I do like using it as a holder for the clay. I can get a better"foot print" with the clay on the panel I am working. When its just your hands, you get slightly uneven pressure from each of your different fingers. The tool allows you to apply the same pressure across the whole clay surface.

I see it a lot at work. If you decide to go through insurance, look at what your deductible is. It might be cheaper to get an outside company that will do it at your place, then taking it into the dealer.

But can you shine a lazer at it and not damage it? HAHA, Like the old Durashine infomercials from the early 2000s. Heres a link for all the people that havent seen the old ad.

I have similar products as you, but even older previous versions of them. I have old red car wash soap, Old detail spray, the old VRT, the old Leather cleaner and conditioner, and Machine Super Wax which is the previous to the liquid paint sealant. All those were from 2009-2010. And they honestly still work fine, I am using them on my old truck which just sits in the driveway. I am planning to do an "old school product" detail and see how well she comes out. Just waiting for the temp to drop and the sun to stay away for half a day.

Do you have the xpel on the hood also? I would check the clearance between the rub spot on top of your bumper and the matching spot on the edge of the hood. Also on my WRX, I notice the bumper is not very well attached. Its held on by a few clips and some screws, it has a lot of play in all directions. Your bumper might actually be shifting around while you drive and be rubbing on the hood or seal.

All Gone. As of now, Wheel Cleaner traded to Wild2003ss Tire and Rubber Cleaner traded to Wild2003ss Tire Shine traded to Jakerodz7 Rinseless traded to Mariner

theres nothing like the satisfaction of doing the job yourself. Just get your game plan set, and have at it. Once you do it right, you will always knitpick someone elses work. It always takes longer to do the job right, but then you know it was done right.

When using the DA, is your pad spinning? I mean f you apply so much pressure you actually stop it from rotating, So it sort of just buzzes around. I remember way back, someone had suggested marking the back side of your pad with a black marker on the foam. So that way when using it, you can quickly check to see if its still spinning. You can kind of see it on one of my old pads

Which region or state do you work? It might vary based on geographic location.

I know, the smell is almost addictive. The blue is a thicker consistency than the red and smells like blue raspberry candy.

Im actually finishing up my last bit of red car shampoo. Still works. Tried it against the new blue formula. Both lather about the same, both smell like different candy scents.

I assume they will supply all chemicals and equipment, at least thats how it it at my shop. They probably wont be looking for top notch details, quantity over quality. just average joe quality so there cars on the sales lot will look and feel smooth.

The DVD, forgot about that. I am still using up my old detail spray, with the same label as in your photo. Almost all gone.

Im actually a tech at the dealer, I leave the detailing to the guys out back. They are using standard rotary polishers and hex type pads. I honestly have no idea how they work around the badges, I assume its by hand application.

Ive been running that modified badge on my Tundra since early 2005. It was originally a joke with my buddies, when we nickname everyone elses ride. So I ended up cutting up the badge and putting it back on.

well they say, "You cant polish a Turd". Im trying to prove them wrong. I will try to add a detail write up when I get this finished over the next week or so.

At least you mask off your emblems before detailing. We get a decent amount of customers that come into the shop and say that there trim/moldings are discoloring. And you can clearly see that someone took a buffer right over them. Always around the rear Porsche raised letters and outer window seals. I replace a decent amount of them under warranty. In these days of customer satisfaction, the customer is never at fault.