DREWBUSH

Damn. Just looked up those wheels online. Those cost a pretty penny. I dont think I could put those on my WRX and even think about leaving my car outside. I would be pissed to if I even curb rashed one of those. But they look good though.

Nice. I do like those wheels. They are a nice change from the spoked/deep dish wheels everyone has nowadays.

I have had luck with a fresh razor blade on glass. You just need to keep the angle really low and glide it over the glass. Usually will shave the boogers right off. Then just a little clean up and your golden.

What wheels are those? And how difficult is it to clean out every crevice on those things?

I hear you on having old product laying around. I dug out my old stuff, that I assume is pre 2008. I have swirl/haze, machine super wax, and a few others that are no longer around. Even my detail spray looks sad. So I got a few MB in the last 2 specials and have basically got all new stuff that is the update to all my old stuff. I am going to try out the old stuff on my Tundra that is going to be a huge project anyways. I figure I might as well give it a go.

I actually got it in the last MB special last month. I will be trying it out on my Tundra that just sits in the driveway collecting dust. That ones going to need a full full detail. I honestly cant remember the last time I even washed it. And the last time it was detailed, was probably 5 years ago (shh, dont tell anybody that). I will probably try and due a write up on it when I get to it in the next month.

I tried soaking it in APC and water 3 times. each time working it over like Rocky on a side of ribs. All it got was the water dirtier and the crap just stayed. I did buy a new pad during the last MB special. This one is saved for grungy wheels and fender liners. No reason to throw something away that can still scrub the out of site plastic trim.

I dont think it will help this pad. Thanks Carmax for the indestructable tire gel you slathered on my tires. Wouldnt even come off with APC. So used the mitt.

As Kingsford stated- the wheel can bite you real quick. You need to run them at really slow speeds and let it do the work. I pull a decent amount of badges at work, and I find that usually pulling them really slow works to get the majority of it off in one shot. Then hit it with an adhesive remover and let it soak in a little. I ave also used WD40 in a pinch, especially when the glue keeps sticking and re-glueing itself. The WD will stop it from re-attaching to the paint and allow you to get off all those glue boogers easier. Heat can help loosen up the adhesive, but the older the tape the harder it wants to hold and no let go. This is where "Patience is a Virtue", really pays off.

Alright, I have a similar question but sort of the opposite. I have the old Adams 6" backing plate and 6" pads that had the plastic centering ring. Will the new 6" pads fit on my old 6" backing plate? I know they are the "same size", but the site only lists 5" backing plates for Porter Cables. I have tried it, and it does fit almost perfectly. Its just the new pads do not have the same outwards taper that the old pads did. These are the old pads I am refering to with the plastic rings.

I hear you on that. I just picked up a used Subaru WRX a few weeks prior to the VW. And just washed, clayed and put some old MSW( thats Machine Super Wax, for those that remember Adams old stuff), just to coat it for the time being. And it looked 10x better than it did. I just got my order of goodies and am going to strip and detail it again with the new stuff.

I am glad this topic was brought up again, saves me from searching for it. Wife just bought a new Golf wagon and the dealership doesnt even give it a detail. Just pulled the vinyl off and washed it. So I just ordered (about an hour ago) LPS and a few other items to add to my old stock of products. Will be going over it well this weekend if the weather permits. Thanks for all the tips everyone.

Just dug my old supplies out of the garage to attack a new vehicle purchase. After reading this post I think its time for some fresh kit. The last time I purchased the products I currently have at an Adams open shop/detail clinic in there warehouse, Adams still had the warehouse in Torrance Ca. So that might tell you the age of my supplies. A few look like they held up fine, but others are way past done. Do you have a trade in program- haha. Oh well, time to start reading up on all the new products and looking at what I will need again.

Another trick to help the drying process is to sandwich your pad between a towel(towel ontop, pad in the middle, towel on the bottom), and press down. It will push out a majority of the water out and into the towel. Then it will only take an hour or two to finish drying. I found this through trying to dry my 4" pads. The spin dry just wasnt enough to get the water out.

I actually did try that, I would spread the product after each panel. I think it was more heat and humidity related. The shop was 80+ and its about a half mile from the beach.

I was having the same issues with the little "dust" balls. I was doing it in the shop and the temp was around 80 degrees. I found a quick sprits of detail spray on the pad would help with it drying up. On a side note: I also noticed the outer edges of my pad( anout the outer 3/4") would have no visible signs of polish, but the center on the pad had more than enough left. It almost seems like the pad is concaved enough that the outer edge hits well before the center of the pad touche the vehicle. I tried different levels of pressure, but not much changed this.

What tips/techniques did you use to clean up the hologram effect? Did you just go back over with FMP and the white pad? or did you try another trick. I would like see hear the way you corrected this in the black paint. And the car looks great

I actually got several of these(yellow with black border) in my Adam's Detail kit about 2 years ago. They work well. I am getting a few new blue ones next week and I will compare them. Hopefully they are the same , if not I will have a few back ups for when I run out of clean ones.

I dont like bumping old posts, but I have had great results with claying my windshield. Then following it up with the Brilliant Spray Glaze. I put to long roadtrips on my vehicle in 1 month, and both times through the high deserts in central California. Great clarity of the glass, especially at night. But the best perk was how easy it was to get the bug guts of the glass. When I had stopped to gas up, I cleaned the windshield. It took little to no effort to wash those little buggers of the glass. Ive done this drive multiple times a year on the way to Mammoth, and always dreaded the squeege time, but not anymore with the help of BSG.

I dont like bumping old posts, but I have had great results with claying my windshield. Then following it up with the Brilliant Spray Glaze. I put to long roadtrips on my vehicle in 1 month, and both times through the high deserts in central California. Great clarity of the glass, especially at night. But the best perk was how easy it was to get the bug guts of the glass. When I had stopped to gas up, I cleaned the windshield. It took little to no effort to wash those little buggers of the glass. Ive done this drive multiple times a year on the way to Mammoth, and always dreaded the squeege time, but not anymore with the help of BSG.

Right on, Thanks for the quick reply. I have some of your products I bought a year or so ago and just am looking for a refresher on how to use them. Also I need to try to get swirls out of my GF's black Golf that the body shop swears is not in the paint. The tried 3 times to get the swirls out and insist its normal, the problem is they had just painted it. So I cant see how swirls are normal. Anyways, I will be there. Thanks

So do I need to call in advance and get on a list? Or just show up at 9am? Also what is the format like? Just an open discussion on techiques and products? And how long does the clinic run for? Thanks, Andrew.