Michael1

I'd like to know as well since I have the same issue. I used WW just as the video showed. Notice that it's not everywhere. 
 
My theory; my glass was "coated" by the manufacturer (which didn't work worth a hoot). I tried polishing off the water spots about a year ago with mediocre results. What I think happened is that my polishing removed that factory coating in some spots (the clear areas in the pic) and the hazing is a reaction between the coating, where it still is, and the Water Spot Remover. Partially supported by the fact that the haze is only where the water spots aren't.

Would def love to see some of what you guys got and how much the markdowns were. 

I have some time this morning before the day starts and last night @falcaineer expressed an interest in a write up on how we establish pricing. 
 
Pricing has a ton of variables to it. Your local market will have a large influence on how much you can charge for your service. But outside of that, it should also be a calculated number. 
 
Before we get too far into the numbers though, you have to decide if you’re just detailing for some cash on the side or detailing for business. Both involve taking dollars for a service, but one has far more flexibility to it. 
 
When simply detailing for some cash, it’s more of a friendly arrangement. Maybe you’re covering some product you ordered or used?  Maybe you want some beers for later?  Maybe you just want to help a friend?  If this is the case, it’s a straight equation. The cost of materials plus whatever you want to be compensated for your time. And there you have the simplest pricing structure. 
 
If you’re detailing for business, you are into a far more complex set of calculations. You have some overhead (or a lot). I work out of my personal garages, but that doesn’t mean we don’t have considerable expenses. We have equipment tha we’ve invested in (and expect a return on), electricity, labor, product, etc. 
 
One thing to consider is recurring costs. These are for maintenance items. Towels wear out, wash mitts, disposable towels for coatings, etc. We assume a certain amount of “waste” on every job we do. This covers consumable products...chemicals and such. We tried tracking product used each job and it’s a logistical nightmare full of estimations and errors. We just assume a set amount based on the job. We could share the numbers, but it’s a mute point since the number varies based on the job and what products you individually like to use. That’s part one of the calculation. 
 
Up next are your labor costs. How much do you want to get paid per hour?  Don’t think in terms of how much the business is making for this. It’s a straight hourly rate for yourself and anyone working for you. I know how much my guys cost me, and I know what I’d like to make. Keep in mind that the guys ALWAYS get paid...I don’t. I often choose to reinvest what I would get paid back in the business. If a job takes longer than anticipated, the guys still get paid their full rate for however many hours they work. It’s not variable and not optional.
 
You should have a good estimate for how long a job will take. Sometimes they’ll go quicker, sometimes longer. But I know we shoot for about three hours with two guys on a “one step” job. So the rate is calculated as (employee A + employee) x three. And there you have your labor costs. That’s part two. 
 
Next up is how much do you want the business itself to make?  The business alone is an interested party to all transactions. The business needs to retain earnings for growth, expansion and other overhead (product orders and such). You can calculate this as an hourly need or a percentage of each job. The two should be close either way. That’s part C. 
 
Now add up part A, B and C and you’ve arrived at the minimum required rate per hour to be viable. You will not always hit the rate. Accept that. Things will come up. And some jobs you’ll make more than the rate. It should average out over time and jobs. 
 
So now you do the math and realize that your hourly rate is too high and you’ll never get that in your area with your experience. What do you do?  How can you impact your numbers?
 
You can raise prices a little bit and see if you have resistance from clients. More importantly though you can do something that won’t impact your clients. Look at your purchasing and see if you can buy smarter. Buying in bulk usually offers discounts. Negotiate with your vendors for better pricing. This will lower your costs and give you more profit without impacting your clients. We still do this constantly without even looking to avoid a price increase. Better buying means more money for the business. As a business owner you owe it to yourself, your clients, employees and business to buy smart and maximize your profit dollars to ensure success. 
 
You should also also research what other detailers in your area are offering for services and pricing. We don’t let them dictate our pricing, but we do want to know so we can expand on what makes us different. Things like equipment, exclusive products, training, services, etc. 
 
We have an internal policy that we don’t get into pricing wars and drive the price of our service down. We offer a fair service at a fair price. If we let clients dictate our pricing, we give them total control and train them that they can tell us how much something costs without them knowing the background information. If we don’t value our time, who will?  
 
Which brings up the last point...there’s a difference between a customer and a client. A customer is someone passing through. They’ll use you one time and then they’re off into the sunset. They won’t promote your business for you and won’t maintain a long relationship. A client will sing your praises, recruit other customers and clients and constantly be a stream of revenue for your business. Customers and clients both have a place in your business model. 
 
And that’s the long-ish version of calculating pricing...

Even the WC?! Maybe your nose is broken.

So I thought I would update this post. Its been about a week since I clearcoated the lights, and in 3 more weeks, ill be able to add a paint sealant and wax. 
 
After they were polished, I taped them back up and sanded them with 2k grit wet sand paper again so the clear would have something to stick to. I also used painters plastic sheeting to cover up the front of the truck. We obviously dont want clear over spray settling anywhere besides the headlights. 

 
Once everything was covered up and prepped, it was time to spray paint. I used USC 2K clear spray can. Please be careful when using this stuff. Use at own risk.

 
Protect your eyes and skin. Carbon filters get clogged up really fast with this stuff, and not recommended for extended use. But for being outdoors in a ventilated area and just 2 headlights, they should be ok.

 
First coat is going to look rough and disappointing, but thats ok. Just try to get a light even pass on the first coat.

 
Second coat starts to look better. Try to get all areas covered with this one.

 
By the third coat, you should already have a clear and good looking headlight. A lot of times this is enough to just polish and call it a day.

 
However I took it a step further and let this dry overnight. There were a few dust particles that were bothering me, so I went back and sanded them one last time with 2k grit once it was completely dry. Just a very gentle pass to knock down the dust particles and any imperfections that i found. Once I was happy with the results, I took out the headlight restoration kit once more, and polished the head lights.

 
Very happy with the results.