Bryce

I think that is precisely my problem. With the rotaries, we moved quickly to avoid burn through. From what I can tell, the polisher spins so slowly that it would take me having to grab a cup of coffee with the thing running to do damage. I also think I was going too light on polish/compound.

I'll go back at it then. This is my first time using a DA. When I went to auto body school we only used rotaries. To be honest, I disliked the polishing portion so I did most of the paint work while in school.

Can someone confirm if this pad looks correct? I am comparing to what I see on the website and the website certainly shows more of a microfiber texture. This pad is more "stringy" with long fibers instead. Don't mind how dirty it is, I cleaned it after taking photos of it.

I bought my setup used and the backing plate is marked. It is spinning while using it. I was just surfing the internet and I might have found out some of my problem. It appears the MF pad that was sold to me may be defective. My fibers are not a loop like a normal MF texture. Instead they are more like a hair texture I would say. I'll give Adams a call tomorrow to see if I can get anything figured out. Hopefully just a new pad will help. I was always under the assumption you could get decent correction from a cutting foam pad. If that's the case, I still need to work on variables.

If I do not have a rotary handy, would spending more time with the DA be my best bet? It's all a bit overwhelming because there are so many variables. I'm wondering if I should stick with the MF and adjust speeds or if I should use a foam pad and keep my speed at 6. There is also the factor of using the correcting polish or the finishing polish. They make it look so easy in the videos!

The marks you see in the picture are linear and not coming out. They cannot be felt with a fingernail. They are from when I was an idiot and used a squeegee to dry, I believe. My understanding is, correcting polish will leave a hazing effect, not a scratching effect. I believe I should be seeing a slightly dull paint instead of the same remaining scratches. I first started very light with just the weight of the machine and my hand and now I am applying what I would consider moderate pressure.

Hey everyone, I am trying to remove some swirl marks/ light scratches and am having a hell of a time. To be clear, I've watched TONS of videos on the subject. What: 2014 Mini Cooper (Freshly strip washed and clayed) Tools: Adam's 2 Step Polish System, Griots Garage DA, 5 pack of Uber Foam Pads, and Adam's Orange MF cutting pad. Here is what I have tried so far: Yellow Foam Pad with Correcting Polish Orange Foam Pad with Correcting Polish Orange MF Pad with Correcting Polish I started with the least aggressive method and proceeded until I got to the MF pad. I have been following the Shine-Doc video for removing swirls without any luck. I have had minimal correction and most of the marks remain. I assume this means I have very hard paint. I started with speed 4 and am now trying to correct at speed 6. I am working 2x2 areas and trying to apply moderate pressure. I am doing a cross-hatch pattern. None of the scratches can be felt with a fingernail so I am getting out light/very light scratches. I'm hoping maybe there is some sort of simple thing I am overlooking.

I would let someone else more experienced answer, however I have used APC on the interior before. I had it diluted approx. 4:1 when I used it.

Hey guys, just like the title says, I am looking for the combo of the correcting compound and the finishing polish. I have All-Purpouse Cleaner and Under Carriage Spray available for trade. I can add paypal for the right trade! I'm just checking here before doing a quick purchase on the website.

I don't have a trim and lug nut brush. However, I have always had good luck with a soft bristled paint brush to clean the fine dust from vents and what not.

The Tire and Rubber Cleaner also worked well for me regarding wax. I didn't need to let it soak for more than the time it took me to get a brush to agitate.

I would think with the Cyclo, it would either take a lot of incorrect practices or a lot of separate polishes regimens to get through your clear. With that being said, I think it is more likely one of the reasons mentioned above.

I've tried that before without any luck. Maybe it just depends on the nap of your carpet.

I don't usually try to smell the chemicals while cleaning, as I'm sure you don't as well. With that being said, I have never noticed anything out of the ordinary while using the wheel cleaner. Certainly no strong odor like you describe.

Just simply direct message them. You will just click on their profile instead.

For those of you doing rinseless washes on a usual basis. What do you do for cleaning the wheels as well? Use the same solution and a towel?

Deal pending with Wely324

APC and Under-Carriage Spray are still available! (I'd prefer to trade it together to save on shipping)

Still looking!

I don't 100% understand your question, but I will try to answer it. I will also throw a couple of videos below for you to watch. Basically, sealant is man-made and artificial. It's purpose is to provide a longer protection than a natural product like wax which is made of carnauba. As you said earlier, you would detail your car, and then apply sealant. You could then apply wax overtop to enhance your shine. You will just have to understand that the wax will not last as long as the sealant.

Have you tried the turbo stick yet? I think that might get you going in the right direction. Next time I have a chance, I am going to take my wheels off and clean the barrels really well. http://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-turbo-stick-wheel-cleaning-tool.html?___SID=U

Welcome Michael! I love the color of the Charger!

Rinseless is the way to go for cleaning a whole car. I keep 16:1 Rinseless around to clean up the car quickly between washes.

I am feeling the same way. I just can't possibly see myself spraying enough waterless to suspend the tiny particles.