rb11701

This really is key. Moving the polisher too fast, we've all done that. All it does is discourage you for the next job. I cannot stress enough that start in a small section. 12x12 is nice, but can be a bit small. 16x16 does the job nicely IMHO. Pick a nice flat spot and hone your technique. Spend a day working on your technique if need be. No rush. Once this is mastered, the PC becomes an extension of your hand. It is awkward at first, but it does become natural.

Have you felt the paint with a plastic baggie after the clay job? If it is still gritty, I would opt to clay again. (I know that sucks, but will be well worth it). For you scratches, I would say that not enough lube was used and the clay 'dragged' or you might have had some grit in the clay. This happened to me once, (before I came to see the Adam's light) clayed the car with dirty clay and installed some nice scratch marks. Lesson learned. Clay is cheap, so I always use a fresh piece. I leave the old ones for rims, glass, tailpipes. To polish, I would do SHR on a orange pad primed with detail spray. Watch Junkmans 'Slow Cut' video. Good stuff there for soft clear. I would then follow with FMP on a dry white. Perhaps two passes. If you really seem motivated, perhaps some revive. Then give it the SMW, followed by Americanna 12 hours later. 2x coats. You should drool over your finish when you are done. Then, to maintain is the easy part. A full correction is always a day-killer.

Hmm.. yet another daily special with revive in it....... I am seeing blue in my future.......

See what I gone done started? I believe there was a blue bottle of revive spotted from the dvd shoot. Somebody let the camera lense drift too far.

LOL. I may or may not have to wait to maybe or maybe not try something that may or may not be available but maybe or maybe not will be better. I am confused now. Maybe I need a nap, maybe not.

Will most likely do that. Was not sure if anyone had ordered any as of late.

I thought I had read somewhere that a new version of Revive was coming out. Blue in color and even better than before. Has the new Revive hit the shelves yet? I was get ready to order some but would like to get the new stuff. BAH! Posted this in the wrong section. Mods, please move to the product section. Thanks!

I recieved mine the other day as well. Emailed Monday, had it Tues along with some items that didn't get shipped out with my last order. Now that's fast. I had a few family members lined up for detailing this week and Steve & Adam came through like champs. Can't beat it.

They are very nice. Pics don't really do the bag justice IMO. I am getting ready to fill mine. My garage is small and shelf space is a premium. This bag wil do the trick nicely. And if I ever go over someones house to do work, this is alot easier than a box. Not too mention when the stuff has to go downstairs instead of the garage, it will keep every together. I might have to get another. lol. Just an update on my missing items, as expected Steve got back to me in seconds and got my items out next day. Why would anyone ever shop elsewhere?

Just got mine today. However I was missing most of the bonus items . Sent out an email to Adam. No doubt he will take care of me. But what a letdown when I opened the box this AM lol. I don't think my smile could go to a frown any faster heh heh. Ah well, no biggie. Like I said, Adam will hook me up I am sure. BTW, the bag is very nice. You can tell some though was put into it during the production phase.

Took my bug guts off no problem this morning. Had some nasties. That I liked.

You can hit the lights with the bigger pads. The 4" pads just make life a little easier. FWIW, the 4" kit comes with a backing plate for the PC. Not trying to get you to spend more cash, but the kit is worth it. Personally, I would use SHR on the lights and make the lights a seperate section of the detail. As in, do the heads and the tails witha clean orange and clean white. Plus, those 4" pads come in very handy for hand polishing and seeing they are smaller allow more correction than the larger ones. It is good for trouble areas that need extra care. When it comes to taping, you get what you put in. If you don't tape, I can almost bet you will get stuff in the cracks. Not a big deal, but if you just washed, clayed, polished with SHR and FMP and then SMW topped with paste wax do you really feel like going back to remove all that crud that has dried and now is a pain? No for me. I tape everything I do not intend to get polish or wax on. Great habit of getting into IMHO. Nobody, and I mean nobody is good enough to polish/wax w/o taping and get nothing on areas that were not intended to be polished/waxed. Each there own. Taping is very easy. Getting wax out with a toothpick is not. When you mention polishing the edges, this is where I mentioned doing the tight stuff by hand. Edges, around emblems etc etc. Didn't mean to confuse you with my earlier post. So let me try to explain a tad better. So you have your fender panel, front door panel,rear fender panel. Between the fender panel and the door panel is a space. Thus 2 edges. Say the tape is 1 inch wide. When I am doing the fender panel, I only tape a very small section of that fender panel where the bulk of that 1 inch tape is over the space between the two panels and the rest is attached to the door panel. You are not polishing the door panel as of right now. So it doesn't matter if you have 1" or 1 foot on the door. The important thing is you cover up say 1/8"-1/4" of the edge of the fender panel. Unless your paint is trashed, I highly doubt you will see a difference in that 1/4" that you hand polish and the rest of the panel you machine polish. When I say hand polish, I mean using either SHR or FMP with a foam pad or mf towel. I do all my edges by hand. Everywhere. I have a Tacoma, so around the emblem I do by hand. Then, I tape up the panel I am working on. I tape all the edges. Kinda like tracing around the panel. Do my thing, remove my tape and move on. When I mentioned the scoops, you had said they come out. IF they came out easy, I would take them off and use a mf towel to polish them up. If they do not come out, I would still hand polish seeing it is so new. Plastic peices require a little love. Unless they are messed up, I would try to polish by hand all plastic pieces. I doubt FMP on a white pad would do any damage, but I play it safe. As for the PC, don't worry I doubt you will burn through any paint. Especially if you just use the orange/white/black pads from Adam. Not too mention that SHR is aggressive, but there are more aggressive stuff out there. Adam really makes great products that are simple yet effective. As for emblems, I do it by hand since I feel if the pads get on the emblems edges, I could damage my pad. Like I said, I use a baby q-tip and mf towels. When I say delicate yet forceful I am only talking about going around emblems with the q-tip. I feel if I push too hard the plastic could come away from the tip and possibly scratch the paint. Unlikely, but possible I guess. The videos on the site are top notch. Between theones that Adam has on here and the ones Junkman did, the amount of info is unbelievable. Sorry, didn't mean to hit ya with another long winded post. Kinda got away from me. Hope that clears up what I tried saying before. When I first got my PC, I just worked on my hood to kinda hone my technique. I did a 12x122 spot and tried different combos. FMP on orange, SHR on white etc to see what each did and how the PC works. Once I got that down, I started to do the whole hood. Happy with my work, I started going around the truck.

Not that I am an expert on anything, but I have used the PC 7424XP a few times with adam's stuff on some of the same type materials you are asking about. Ok, the lights. You can use the FMP or SHR to clean those lights up if they are plastic (which most cars are today I think). The best are the 4" pads and a drill. It makes short work of the lights. I would still tape the edges only to keep gunk out of there. Also, if you have paint near those lights, those edges are the most delicate. As for waxing them, I wax mine. I think it helps with the bugs, but that's just me. I would use the SMW but only a dab. It spreads nicely, and you will not need nearly as much for the lights as the hood. Remember, SMW needs 12 hours to cure before topping with anything. If you car is in good shape, I would try to do all edges and any tight spots by hand. Then tape up a section and use the PC. Hope that helps out some. As for taping, I tape every edge, all black trim and anything I do not want polish/wax on. As for the door trim, I tape that as best I can. (a) To keep polish/wax out from the cracks and ( to keep it off trim. I only tape up one section at a time. This way, I can cheat on say the fender panel and ust leave a sliver of tape on the fender and the bulk on the door panel. When I do the door, the bulk of the tape goes on the fender panel (if that made sense to you). This way, I am only leaving a very small line that didn't get the PC. I can go back by hand with the 4" pads (or MF towel if need me) and polish that line. Take your time with the tape. It is a life-saver. As for the plastic scoops. I have plastic color-matched fenders. I go over them with a 4" orange or white pad by hand with my SHR. When I am doing thw whole fender panel at the FMP stage, i will go over the fender every so lightly and I am done. You said they come out. If it easy, pop them out. Do them by hand and tape up the edges. Fold the tape around that edge. Then do the whole hood. As for emblems, those are tricky. The best I have ever seen is SunDog Detailing on here. I dunno how he gets it done. I try to use MF towel and jamp it in there. I have this rubber looking pointy thing that has a real cheap brush on the other end. Don't use the brush, but the rubber thing is nice with a MF towel on the tip. Gets in there pretty good. Q-tips might work. Just make sure to get the baby ones. They have a thicker head and a nice pointy tip. Good for the all kinds of babies. Human and gasoline-powered! Don't get crazy rubbing with it. Be delicate yet forceful. I use toothpicks to get any crud out from real tight cracks. Like around my door handle. Under the edge of plastic paint guards on the rear fender. (think clear bra only down by the tires)

I have sport seats in my Tacoma. I got tired of the staining, I sprayed the whole interior with 3m ScotchGuard for Auto's. Those water spots rub right out with a MF now.

I was thinking Bub Rub would make a great name for some kind of wax. Maybe a rim wax or something. That way everyone could have that whoo whoooooo..... I mean it would only be for decoration..... Nah, someone might complain about the shine blinding them or something. Bad idea...

WCW is nice to have. I have DD's and it maintain's great! I did take some shots for a review I was going to do but with so many of them I kinda figure it was more of the same. The stuff just flat out rules. I picked up the gallon special. That's a good deal.

No problem!

You should polish one and see how much the difference is. If they were already circulated they must have some damage in them. I wonder how much more you would do using Adam's polish?

Interesting stuff this rare coin topic... from ask.com... With the exception of freshly dug-up detector finds, cleaning or polishing your coins will do more harm than good. Once metal has been exposed to the air, it is natural for it to oxidize, or tone. If you strip the coin of this toning, not only will you lose any remaining mint luster, the coin will appear harsh and unappealing, and suffer microscopic abrasions that lower its grade. Plus, toned coins are worth more than stripped coins. If you really must clean them, clean coins safely. So how does one clean coins correctly? Again from ask.com... Difficulty: Easy Time Required: About 10 - 15 minutes to clean a batch of 30 coins Here's How: Wash your hands with soap. Washing up will remove the oils and tiny grit from your fingers. Lay down a soft towel. Place a soft cloth or towel, folded over a couple of times, on your working surface to catch coins you might drop, and to provide a space for them to dry. Set up your soapy bath. Fill a small plastic container with warm tap water. Do not use glass, china, or metal, as these hard surfaces can scratch your coins! Disposable food storage containers are perfect for this. Just don't store your coins in them permanently. Add a small amout of mild dish-washing detergent to the container filled with warm water. Don't overdo it - all you need is a really tiny squirt. Prepare your final rinse bath. Fill a second plastic container with distilled water, for the final rinse. Although distilled water is by far the best, you can substitute hot running tap water. Clean the coin. Pick up the first coin, and immerse it in the soapy water. Gently rub both sides of the coin between your fingers, paying attention to any stickiness or gunk. Rub gunk near the edges away from the center of the coin, not into it. Always work in an outward pattern. Dirt and gunk near the edges should simply be made to go over the side with your thumb, not all the way across the coin. Don't put all of your coins in the water at once! Do them one at a time, to avoid their coming in contact with each other and causing scratch marks on the surfaces. Rinse the coin. Rinse the coin under running water, gently rubbing until all soap residue is gone. Always remember, gentleness is the key! Don't rub hard, and if you feel any grit, even light grit, don't rub it into the coin because it will scratch the coin very easily. Instead, sort of agitate the coin by moving it quickly in the water to dislodge the grit, touch it gently only if needed to free it up. Every motion you make with your fingers should be focused on not causing scratches to the coin's surface. Do the finishing rinse. Swish the coin around in the distilled water, to remove the chlorine residue and other contaminants that are found in tap water. Hold it by the edges and agitate gently. At this point, you should no longer touch the coin on its faces. Touch it only by the edges when using your bare fingers. If you must use tap water for the final rinse, then run the coin under fairly hot water. Allow the coin to dry. If you use a distilled water rinse, you can set the coin on the towel to air dry. The coin should dry spot-free, because distilled water is free of dissolved minerals and other impurities. If you had to do the final rinse in hot tap water, then gently pat the coin dry to help prevent spotting. Never rub a coin dry! Always pat it dry gently with a soft cloth or tissue. Repeat until finished. Now wash the rest of your coins, one at a time, following Steps 5 through 8 carefully. If you run across a coin that needs to soak for awhile to get clean, put it in the tub of water off to the side, so you don't accidentally ding it with another coin you are working on. Store your coins. Make sure your coins are absolutely dry before putting them away. Damp coins can suffer damage over time. Remember to always handle coins only by the edges. The only coins I ever touch the faces on are the ones I am about to spend! Tips: Never try to remove the natural oxidation from coins, such as the tarnish on silver. This is called "toning" and the coin is worth more with it intact. Removing it will damage the coin's surface and greatly reduce its value. In other words, no dipping, polishing, or chemical solutions should ever be used on coins. Well now I know... and good to know it was. Thanks for the heads up and making me look into this. I love learning new stuff.

This was really just for kicks as I was bored out of my mind. lol. How come cleaning knocks down the value? Is there a proper way to clean coins of that value? I would imagine coin dealers have a way. Just in case anyone thinks about doing this to a rare coin collection, I did this merely for entertainment. The coin was my Grandfathers so I doubt I would ever part with it. If you do have coins that are worth money and might be selling them at ANY point, I would follow the advice of not useing Adam's Metal Polish on them. Either keep them dirty or inquire about the correct way to clean them up. I would feel really bad if somebody did this after my pics and lost a ton of value on the collection. But it did come out mint!

I was REALLY bored today and felt like doing something different... I have had this since I was a kid... ....I'll let you guys decide the answer to the title..... In case you didn't guess it... ADAMS!! I actually couldn't believe how good it came. Not due to product but the thing has been dirty since 1924!!! No doubt in my mind that Adam's Metal Polish is the best I have ever used. The coin cleaned up so easy! Any other metal polish I have used required some muscle to really get something shiney. :rockon:

Did you ever get too look at the spot? Was it just wax that wasn't completely removed?

I would think so.. but I do it anyways. I use it at least twice a year for my seasonal details. Srping/Fall. I have been doing that since my black 97 Taco days. I feel guilty if I don't do it now lol. I think if you do one panel as a side by side.. I think you will see that glow I tallk about.

Thanks everyone! I think the intake looks pretty good. Plus it gave me an excuse to detail the engine. That was cool. Don't get to do that alot.

Hey Jesse, how did you make out on your lights?