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Bunky

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Posts posted by Bunky

  1. For just cleaning 1400 to 1800 psi (the range the electrics run in) is fine.  For heavy duty, stripping decks, long distance cleaning, etc. you will appreciate a higher psi gas model.  

     

    I get pretty good foam from my 1400 psi and realize water softness. amount of soap (use around 1:10 in bottle), settings, etc can affect results.   I do not see that much benefit from shaving cream foam except it is cool but the near shaving cream sticks long enough to do what it needs to do,   My "cleaning" soap combo is Adam's plus an all purpose cleaner. I just use straight soap and let it sit when doing a maintenance wash usually after a good pre-rinse.

     

    I agree that getting the unit out and putting it away does add some time to the total process but you will find you use a LOT less water and generally safe with the fan spray setting.

  2. You can make almost any paint look great in photos.  The image manipulations (sharpness, saturation, vibrance, etc) are endless to enhance the look.

     

    You would have to see them up close.  A 90-95% corrected car will usually looking stunning almost any condition.  Unless you are doing a car show,  polishing to perfection (especially more than once) can be just wasting removing paint unnecessarily.

  3. . The bigger strain from the Flex comes on your shoulders IMO... b/c of the rotation it wants to walk in one direction or another to some degree, this requires you to use your shoulders and upper arms to prevent lateral movement. 

     

    With the Flex, I find body position is key on vertical panels. You cannot just extend your arms out as you can with the non-forced rotation DA but move closer and not get it as far over your shoulders.  I will say I never felt the after polishing effects like I did with a DA from the vibrations so the Flex always feel consistent (and I own a Rupes too).

  4. Me personally if you don't have a 1 inch main water line and 3/4 line feeding your hose bib, go 5/8's.  Most homes are going to be 3/4 main water line and 1/2 hose bib.

     

    From the houses I have seen, there is usually a 5/8 or 3/4-in runs and then faucets,etc  are all 1/2-in runs from the main line to the faucet, shower, etc.  In my case, the main feed ends in a T with one 1/2 run to the kitchen sink and other goes to the outside bib. The 1/2-run is at least 10 to 15 ft so plan to upgrade this so it is full size to the spigot and get the higher flow bib.  The T itself is an insertion  loss.

  5. My story:  I installed a whole house water softener and it really impacted pressure and flow.  I wash using a 1/2 faucet (meaning the feed line and faucet is 1/2-in).  My pressure is not that bad (probably 60 psi+) but the GPM is barely 3 GPM.

     

    I had tried another fire hose nozzle and was disappointed but tried the Adam's nozzle was a significant improvement but I use a full flow shut off (like Adam's) and a 5/8-in hose and insure I have it fully puled out from the reel. It makes a difference although not dramatic.

     

    BTW, I did try the other hose nozzle in a higher flow/pressure situation and it works better but the Adam's nozzle worked best in all situations.

     

    I do plan to get the outside spigot (hose bib) upgraded to match the hose main feed (5/8-in) so that includes the feed line from to the lspigot to increase GPM. I have a 2.8 GPM pressure washer so I can tell when the feed is not keeping up with the output.

     

    The good news is that I have soft water and do not need to worry as much about water spots as I did earlier but I have still have mineral content so water spots do happen if not rinse in enough. I prefer the risk of dried soap over dried water so I only rinse a few ( 2 to 4) times during a wash.

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