Raige93

Strip wash gallon would be fantastic!!

If you've corrected the paint already I'd go for a ceramic coating, you've already done all of the prep work, that's the hard part! It'll last longer than any of the other options.

Thanks for the responses! May come out Friday night or Saturday morning, wish I could make it out for more of the show! I have yet to make it to a Carlisle event.

Aw man I may actually be able to make one of these events finally.. Does it cost to go to the event? Where can I find out more info? I live rather close.

I hear good things about those towels, I think you will be good to go, it last's longer than the H2O that I can tell you from experience. H2O is really made to be used post wash, so if you're going to wash and decon, you'd almost have to wash again to use it, and, while there are some work arounds to this, if you're going through the trouble you may as well use the paint sealant, especially if you have it. 

I use a red hex-grip applicator (Adam's sells these) and apply a few drops at a time to until and work it into the pad with my fingers until the majority of the pad's face is grey, then I'll put 2-3 pea sized drops and blot it around a panel (or half a hood or so) before working it in in a cross hatch pattern. Move onto the next section, 2-3 more drops, etc. Once I'm done I go back to where I started and start buffing off. Usually one towel will suffice to remove all the left over Sealant but having an extra one to buff over after your first pass probably wouldn't hurt if you're afraid of leaving some behind. 

Let me know if I can help any other way!

As long as it's not heavy it's not difficult to remove at all. Even if it is applied heavy it still doesn't fight you too much. Just have some good microfibers on hand for buffing and you'll be fine, at least that's been my experience. Especially if you're topping it with Buttery, you'll be buffing the entire car again anyways

If you're going to go through the trouble of a thorough decontamination, I would skip the H2O and apply paint sealant by hand if you don't have a DA. Even if you do have a DA I'd still do it by hand, I have always applied LPS by hand and it has been trouble free. Hope this helps!

No problem @josefdoc! Let us know if you have any other questions.

Chances are if you used a carnuba wax it has worn off already, if you used paint sealant it may be going strong still. It depends a lot on maintenance routine as well. If you want to be safe you could always wash first with strip was or an equivalent type of product.  

I would follow the manual just to be safe. I for one don't use the onboard soap tank of my pressure washer, maybe somebody can chime in who does, but if you have a foam cannon, there is really no need.

BG indeed fixed the high spot on my C pillar, however didn't do much in the way of fixing the spots on my hood. Do you folks reapply the coating after fixing a spot with BG? 

Forgot to take a picture of the C pillar unfortunately will try to get some of the hood later.

No kidding, I knew it was great for windows I didn’t know that it’s solvent was so useful though.

How does one use BG to get rid of high spots? Interesting...

@tlbullet I'll get some pictures this afternoon, or at least try to, not sure how well they'll show up. It basically looks like a streak in the coating though on the C pillar, the hood looks like dark spots. Assuming it has to do with the way light is hitting it.

@shane@detailedreflections Thanks for the tip Shane, I'll give that a shot tonight if I get the chance. I've got some Scholl S40 left I'll give it a whirl.

This weekend I polished and coated my car ('16 GTI) and it being mine and being pressed for time I was rushing (not something I would do with a customer's car) and this morning I saw a high spot on my C pillar and 2 or 3 small high spots on my hood. What is the most efficient way of getting them out? Polishing? Compound then polish? This is the first I've run into this issue. Coating is CQUK if that matters. 

Thanks,

Raige

@DaFunkyFish No problem at all. I "prime" the hex grip by putting about 5 drops on it and rub it into the surface of the pad with my fingers. Then I put 2-3 drops on and do about 1/2-1/3 of the hood or an equivalent area. Once I have to apply pressure to get any more product to spread I add 2-3 more drops. Once I'm done, I go back to where I started and buff off with a double soft towel or equivalent towel. It's really a pretty easy process and the results are great. 

@DaFunkyFish I've only ever applied it by hand and it's super easy, do the whole vehicle with as light a coat as possible, go back and buff off, doesn't fight you too bad, only takes about 25 mins.

This combo is what I was using on my car for awhile, I applied H2O GG once about every three weeks since I drive alot (30k miles a year) and during winter I didn't apply it once for about 3 months, the result was protection and water beading throughout all of winter, save for the bottom third of my doors and the rest of the car due to the aggressiveness of Pennsylvania's road treatments in winter. I do about 2 sprays per door/panel and have had fantastic results.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions!

1 minute ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

Here’s a post I wrote for the stands we use. We also have one on a boom for shining down on hoods and roofs. Inexpensive and effective. Add a photo umbrella for photo lighting. 

I can attest to this suggestion, I took Shane's advice and just bought enough stuff to build two stands (roughly $110) and I'm not at all disappointed, great lights. Great for finding defects in paint or turn them towards the wall/ceiling and they illuminate the entire garage.

3 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

 

You’re welcome. We use them all the time. 

 

My word of caution since it got upvoted and moved near the top of this thread...

 

These lights can and will expose defects in the paint that you won’t see under most general lighting conditions. Be careful to not get caught up trying to chase every mark you see in the paint. It’s easy to get carried away chasing perfection and work your clear coat too thin. If you want to be really aggressive, invest in a paint thickness gauge. It’ll save you a lot of headaches. 

 

Otherwise, we love these lights. 

Thanks, I figured you would be using them for this but wasn't sure because it was in a coatings thread and I tend to overthink things, especially while distracted, at my full time job.

If the haze is especially bad I go after it with glass cleaner and a towel and I'm not shy about the amount. That brings up all of the 'gunk', then i dry it with another towel, BG, then a single or double soft. Take about 5 mins to do the windshield and it looks perfect afterwards. I do this for all the windows, skipping the glass cleaner if they aren't terrible.

How is that setup for finding/seeing defects pre-polishing and after?

I can't speak for everybody Shane but I for one would love an invoice for those items.

P.S. I promise I'm not stalking you, just this thread 

Hi friends, joined the forum a little while ago and have been an Adam's user for about a year. Started a detailing business and wanted to get more involved in the forums rather than just lurking.

Full time engineering intern and part time student makes it a weekend job only and leaves little time to care for my ride though

Thanks for the information I appreciate it.