nooner

First of all, WOW that paint looks outstanding, maybe it is just the light or the camera won't take bad or something, but that looks real good to me! I am a first timer, but I read your whole thread and you seem to be complaining about the swirls that your pad makes right? The orange pad and SHR is for removing the big swirls and spider webs and the white pad and FMP revomes the orange pads very light swirls. If the white pad is leaving any swirls still (which from you pictures looks very very light) have you tried using a white pad and RP (revive polish) or even a black pad and RP? Either that or the swirls looks so light because as some have said it is deep in your clear coat. I though RP is the last polish (if you could even call it that it has so fine a cut) before you wax something. SHR>FMP>RP>SMW no? Pro's please correct me if I am mistaken or misleading/ giving bad advice.

First, have you ever seen this thread http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4034? Chicken of what? 2nd You tell me if the ghost can be revomed.... I didn't use SMW at all yet, I am waiting untill the whole vehicle is done, though some parts I used SHR and some I used SHR and FMP. (you can really see the orange peel in this zoomed in photo, but no scratches or swirls, or ghost:thumbsup:, well at least 95% of them are gone, I am no Junkman.......yet lol) Unfortunaley, the ghost was right in a curve which is a huge pain. A flat surface is very easy and the same pressure can be put on it and you can watch the black line. But on a curve, the edge of the pad will rub the outside of the concave and will slow the pad (which is good because you would probly do a lot of damge if it didn't slow) but man is it hard to keep the thing spining and get the inner part of the concave surface. That might be what caused my orange dust I will talk about later, the edeged rubbing the paint? I am thinking about getting the 4" pads not just for my bike, but even my car. One reason I like my cars so much is all the lines and curves, but man is it a pain to polish lol. I use the 7.5 on the trunk, top roof top, hood (pretty much everything horizontal). But everything verticle has so many curves in it like the bumper, the trunk, the fendors, doors, though convex isn't nearly as big of a deal, it just makes you break up your grid smaller and you can just hang the pad over the edge, its no where near as much of a pain as a concave curve is. My bike looks fantastic too (I did the tank only), but indoor light doesn't do it justice because you can only show a section at a time, I will wait for some sun and get a nice pic of it! Now some questions..... I was also getting a TON of orange dust from the pad. I took a pic of it to show you just my windshield, the garage looks like it snowed orange inside! (looks like flake on my paint lol, but that is orange dust on my windshield) Is the orange dust something that happens on all new pads? I assume it has to do something with the cut of the compund too, becuase the white pad wouldn't dust nearly as much (if at all) and I used that with FMP. (not sure what that 3 lines of light is from, I swear it is not from swirls) When I am all done I will get some outside pics, it just looks much better in the sun, I don't have enough light in my garage to show much. I didn't take an after of this picture, but you can see the 2 deep scratched in it. I went over 4 passes on it and nothing. Would you recommend me using the yellow pad and speed 6 with a lot of pressure, or yellow with speed 5 with 9-14lbs just on that scratch (not doing a whole grid)? Or is that too agressive for an novice? and as far as the PC getting too hot.... I think my guage of wire is good, but is a good test to touch the metal "shielding" (where conterweight and the whole thing orbits), and it should be warm, but if you can't hold your hand on it, then it is too hot? Mine deffinatley never got too hot to where I couldn't hold my hand on it as long as I wanted, it was warm though, but I assume that is normal? Well, sorry for the length, and I can understand if you can't understand a lot of that as some of it is hard to explain in words, but any help/advice or as many of the many quesitons you could answer is greatly appreciated. Thanks for you time.

Yea, I think I just got my new signature.

You will just have to switch to polishing by hand to get a cardio so you don't die No more PC for you!

It was just a 3" by 6" section, just to see what the stuff is like. I just used SHR and an old orange foam pad I had and I worked till it was "done" and spritzed some detailing spray, thanks to Junkman for that product saving tip,(becuase I could still see a few swirls) and worked it again. Then I used a MF towel and some FMP and worked that once and viola. Adams makes its easy. The halogens really bring out stuff you can't see in the sun. I debadged my car (I like the clean look) and used some OTC junk to "polish" out the scratches that left. I must have just used a glaze, becuase when I took a halogen to it after the claying I saw "GENESIS" as bright as day lol. I am just glad nobody could see that in the sun, how embarrasing. I will take a pic of it, that will really show a before and after lol. As far as the 4" pad, I didn't know about them when I got the kit, and I just got my kit yesterday so I think I will learn how to use the 7.5" and the PC before I go all out. I like how the orange pad goes with SHR (orange liquid) and the whit pad goes with FMP (white liquid) and the black pad goes with the MSW (black liquid). This stuff truly is noob proof, its my kind of stuff. Now lets just hope the PC is as good (and I hear/see it is). Thanks again for the input/replies, I will keep posting updates as I go along. I get my PC in about an hour (can you tell I am killing time untill it arrives? lol) and I want to attempt the famed Junkman "slow cut process" on my trunk (especially on those 2 bad swirls on the left of my trunk you can see in the first pic)

Here is what 5-10 mins of SHR and FMP and a very sore arm got me.... there is NOOO way I could do a whole car by hand, and I think I will need to do my bike in 20 sections if I do it by hand! But the results even by hand are very impressive.

Macro setting is the key car Trunk from the right I just love the flake on this black car, it will be even better when I get these pesky scratches/swirls out of the way. Front left fendor, above wheel front left fendor Right rear of trunk Bike Those are all tank shots, I can match them up with the "SUZIKI" decal or the tank filler port execp the last one, That is right above the seat, I liked the dark color and how it really brought out the swirl. Is there a picture limit? Sorry if this is too many. Feel free to delete some if you want MODS Now I can finally get to work on these bad boys and take some "after" pics!

It looks like you took those outside too, I think I will try that. I used halogens and they seemed to just drown the picture out. But I think you can see the swirls enough in the screen cap and video to get the gist of the damage right? Good enough for a before andf after? or you think I should try to get better befores? Thanks for all the input.

I tried flash, and it just made the black car look blueish and it really brought out the flake and actually looked really good. I think the focus is the problem as I can't control it and it is automatic.

Here is a screen capture (from a video) of my car. I can't belive how many swirls I have on a brand new car (6 months old). I guess that goes to show you how much damage you can do with an unproper car washes. Thanks to Junkman I know better now. I couldn't get my camera to show any swirls at all, I wish my car was as nice as my camera made it look lol. And I couldn't even get my bike swirls to show up even in a video form. I even tried using a 1 million candel power spotlight. I got it all clayed today and tomorrow my PC arrives, so I will update with pics as I start to polish it. EDIT Keep the following in mind as you read my post and that I am trying to get my paint into 95% pristine condition. This is a BLACK CAR so I know it will take way more time and effort than the avg car will to get it looking pristine. I know I could get a light colored car looking pristine with no problems, but as we know a black car shows minor swirls and scratches a bit better and therefor takes a slightly more skill to get it pristine. You could get it to look good or ever great pretty easily, but to get it looking pristine takes a slight bit of time and skill.

blue Suzuki SV650S I will put up some pics once my stuff arives and I can work on it.

Thanks, I will give it a watch. It is in pretty bad shape, its a 2002, and its blue so it shows everything. I will take some before and after when I get my PC.

It's like some vintage porn for the helicopter pilots.

I have seen that. But my favorite show is "The Best Thing I Ever Ate" it is on the Food Network. The dedicate an episode to the top 10 Blank some of these people ever had. I have seen the Bacon, pizza, and fries episodes. Somewhere in CA they actually have a bacon cheeseburger...... I don't mean the kind with a hamburger, I mean bacon between bread. The guy chops up bacon and then cooks it like shredded potatos to make hash brown's, but this guy uses shredded bacon to makea bacon patty burger. Also a restaraunt in NY that deep fries bacon. That is greatest show ever.

I watched the adams "hand polishing" video and he says you won't really remove all the swirls, you will just minimize them, you need a PC to remove them. My PC is still in transit, but can it "bend" around the curves? I have seen Junkman's won't burn through your car video, but that was on a flat surface. I have heard edges and curves are a different animal. I am 100% new to detailing and the only reason I know as little as I do now is from Junkman's videos (which unfortunatley he doesn't have any bike videos). Anyone have have any advice on detailing a motorcycle? Thanks

That takes more crazy than it does skill IMO. Probly the reason he died doing that very thing a few years later.

I take it you've never done this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNWCSE9BaW0 before. Fixed wing arobatics is fun, don't get me wrong, I would love to dog fight one day in one of those "laser dog fights". But at those altitudes you have motion parallax. When you go 400mph at 20,000' it doesn't seem very fast, in fact any airspeed above 1000' seems slow. And G's can actually be quite exhausting and painfull (especially negative G's), and so can all the altitude/pressure changes. But going 100mph at 5-20' above the trees is a quite a rush. Minimal G-loading (just enough to enjoy) and no altitude/pressure change.

I think it is a fake too. But I think that is enough water... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MNJOmdE_4U

Nice find, but if you really want a heart attack on a plate? 5 words Double Bacon Hamburger Fatty Melt http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2008/10/the-bacon-hamburger-fatty-melt-a-bacon-burger-with-two-baconstuffed-grilled-cheese-sandwiches-as-bun.html and the only thing that would make that better is if you put some Baconnaise on it and deep-fried it.

So you are saying if my car passes the plastic bag test, then it is good? If it needed claying, then I would be able to feel the contaminants "through" the sealant?

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I have heard to use dish soap to revome wax, but what if your car has a sealant on it? Does anyone have any tips on how to revome polymer sealant? If I try to clay my car with this sealant on, is it even doing anything to the paint, or is it simply rubbing clay on a sealant? The only thing I can think of is to use some polish of some type and polish away the sealant, but how aggresive do i need to get (since I can't see the sealant to know if it is removed or not I can't go with the least agressive and move up). Is Fine polish good enough with an orange pad, or do I need to use SHR and a yellow pad? I didn't know about detailing because I stumbled on junkman's site after sealing my car. I hear a new car should need to be clayed, but right now mine passes the plastic bag test. But is that my paint passing the test, or just the layers of the sealant?