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Posts posted by 07RS4
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I do a quick dry with the sidekick of the wheels and the few known spots that hold water, depending on which vehicle I'm doing...this is immediately after the sheet rinse. Take roughly 10 min on that. Then I'll just do a panel by panel using DS with a wrung out super plush 16x16 towel that had been soaking in the Rinseless. Damp towels work so much better than a dry towel...plus the towel spreads and finishes the DS spot free...requiring little to no dry buffing afterwords.
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Interesting...hmmmm. Adam's crew?
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I don't mean to hijack the thread, but does the Leather conditioner ever go old over time? I have a 16oz bottle I got back in 2014 and it's about half full and seems very thick. It doesn't flow out like a liquid (ie: SVRT), but more of a pasty liquid. Does this means its getting old and needs to be replaced?
Nope normal...I usually get carpal tunnel trying to squeeze it out
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Does Adam sell them
They used to, I'm not sure if they are still on the site. If you want one we can trade or you can have mine for cheap. I haven't used it in years.
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Like Roger said just use the waterless wash to play it safe. I know nothing of Rain-X brand, but I would take a stab and say the M brand won't hurt sealant, the stuff is pretty durable. In so Cal it will last a while with the droughts you guys are in.
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- avimore, Texas Moe, LFairbanks and 1 other
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I own a Tornador and love it. I fill it with Reverse Osmosis filtered water and about 4oz of Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner. I use it mainly for cleaning carpets and cloth seats. Things a beast.
Dave what compressor do you run with it?
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Ok. Yeah I've got a decent size compressor so I'm not overly worried about air capacity lol
Must be nice, I need to get something bigger. My little husky has trouble filling tires, haha.
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Tire Shine, VRT....don't waste product trying to clean them. One for VRT, One for shine. When finished, I just fold a paper towel over and blot them until the black diseappers on the towel and store them. After all, the product is meant to be somewhat durable, so why fight it.I have several applicators delegated to specific jobs, Tire Shine applicator, VRT applicator, Buttery Wax applicator, so on and so forth.
How do you guys clean them? APC?
Thanks for any advice!
Wax/Polish applicator, a few spritz of any APC or dawn, a terry towel and bucket with clean water. Spray the pad face, work in and rinse in the bucket...use the terry towel to wipe away the polish, works great.
2nd what Jerome said, just let them soak for a bit in a bucket of water with a few OZ of APC and they will come clean. If you know your doing a full session, prep the bucket ahead of time and just throw them in as you go.
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I have no experience with that tool, mainly because the compressor needs are insane. You can check You Tube and the Autogeek forums however, there is a ton of information out there on that tool. Good luck, I always wanted to try one of those.
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Are you saying you used almost 32 oz of Wash and Wax to wash your vehicle? Definitely try what Jason said, then you can rule out your water or confirm. There is no way you should be using more than 4 oz of any soap for a wash, you will go broke.Thanks for the tip Jason, I've decided to get more suds when it comes to washing with the bucket and mitt to simply add more soap than I would expect to. Used the wash and wax stuff last weekend and i used a good amount from my 32 oz bottle i got and got great results with suds and overall process.
Heck, I use distilled for everything....you can even do a final sheet rinse with a gallon and not have to worry about spots.
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Yeah, hopefully I won't have too, but that looks like the direction I'm headed. I noticed that on their website they have a special two part coating to put on the lighter tiles to eliminate tire marks. Ticks me off because when I bought them they made no mention of this.
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So I need some suggestions, I have tried everything for these garage floor tiles.
I have the tiles listed in the link here:
http://locktileusa.com/whos-using-it/#residential
I absolutely love them, except for the fact that the RS4's tires leave marks on them everytime I park following a drive that heats up the tires a bit. Here is a pic:
From what I've read, it's more of a chemical reaction, than a stain that can be removed?
I've tried, Adam's APC, 1Z W99, Rubber & Tire Cleaner, Goo Gone, Mineral Spirits, IPA, Goof Off, WD40, Simple Green, Citrus Degreaser....hmmmm, probably something I'm forgetting.
Any suggestions at removing? Or am I looking for a complete redesign of the floor to incorporate all black on that side lol.
Thanks, JB.....
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Rinseless, when done correctly just as safe as a 2 bucket.
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Same, works great.
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Hypes Serum Rustopper is the best I've ever used (may even be the only one I've heard of).....or do it for free with some 0000 steel wool (if you have access).....
May have mis read your question...brake dust off of brake rotors? I though you were talking about post wash rusting of the rotors for some reason.
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Hypes Serum Rustopper is the best I've ever used (may even be the only one I've heard of).....or do it for free with some 0000 steel wool (if you have access).....
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Hey guys....
How many of you still wipe the car down after you've blow dried?
Do you find you NEED to due to streaks/water trails?
I'm asking cause with my Toro (electric) leaf blower, I find I NEED to do a final wipe down with detail spray to get rid of any trace of water 'smears'.
So, many on here have suggested I blow dry my new black truck to minimize how much I have to touch it. But I don't see how blow drying is helping me with anything besides getting water out from the crevices.
Thanks for your thoughts.
1. Sheet rinse
2. Mist with Detail Spray
3. Hit known leakage area's with Air (i.e..Window seals, mirrors, honeycomb grills, wheels)
4. Wipe down with damp Rinsless MF'er or your favorite drying towel
Very rarely will anyone just use air and never touch there car with a wipedown of any sort after a wash...whether it be immediately or days after with a Waterless/Rinsless/Spray Wax wipedown. The biggest rule of thumb is there should never be a dry towel touching dry paint. If ur using quality products and towels, the chance of damage is extremely low anyway. Most people are going to touch up there ride with a polisher once or twice a year anyway.
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Definitely strange man, especially when the mit hits the car.
I have never used the Adams foam gun, but on the Foam Master setting D/E with 2 OZ of soap you get a ton of suds (for a hose gun) and the soap in the bucket isn't even close to what I've gotten every wash for 5 years. I do the standard, put a couple ounces or so in the bucket and putting some on the wash media and I don't agitate the soap until I'm ready to wash and I've never had an issue. A few things I can think of:
1. Extremely Hard Water?
2. Was the car paint hot? I feel like a may see less suds if the panels are warm. (Vid looks shaded)
3. Try agitating the suds immediately before putting the media on the paint
4. I'm not sure your LSP at the moment (didn't catch it if you posted it). If you don't mind re-applying, throw 2 OZ of all purpose cleaner in your foam gun for kicks. You get substantially more foam with APC in there...lets see if it does the same thing. Don't forget to shake the foam gun to get the chemicals mixed.
5. Another option is go buy some over the counter stuff, don't change a thing in your process and see what happens.
*A few caveats...I still use the red soap and like aforementioned, never used the Adams foam gun. However I've never gotten those results, definitely not typical.
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Welcome.
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The DD is going on 2 years, haha.
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Thanks Chris, I missed it in my old age!
Done with glass towels
in Interior Cleaning & Care
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