Junkman2008

Thank you Sandra "Dee-licious!"

Are you making sure that we will have plenty of room for all my trunk junk Teresa?

Great looking couple!

Way to get the facts!

Correct.

Yes, it is a Shelby GT reproduction. Someone scratched the heck out of it and I had to repair it at Fords at Carlisle 2009. There a thread by me on it if you do a search.

Orange peel looks exactly as the name suggest. The surface of a orange has this bumpy texture to it. Pretty much every car you look at today has orange peel. If you spray the clear and then sand it down smooth, you eliminate the orange peel. However, the clear at that point is so thin that you have to spray more clear on the car again and sand it again. This process has to be repeated multiple times in order to build up the clear on the car. This is a costly process but if done correctly, the car will appear to be encased in a coat of glass. You can clearly see the orange peel in this paint. Look how bumpy the reflection looks compared to the reflection in the glass. Here's some paint that has been cleared to perfection. No orange peel in this paint. But that's part of the reason why the car cost $85,000

Just about any polish or compound on a rotary is going to remove wet sanding damage. If I were you, I'd be following that M105 (something I definitely would not have used in this situation on a rotary) with some Fine Machine Polish. I won't suggest which is the best choice between #9 or #82 because it has been so long since I've used them, I have forgotten. You'll have to jump over to MOL for that advice. That M105 is definitely one of the reasons that you have buffing trails.

Well William, there lies the problem with a rotary in the hands of a novice. You are going to leave buffing trails. It takes lots of experience and someone showing you how to use one to not do so. There is also the pads you use, the products you use and the speed you work at. That's a lot of variable for a novice to consider. At least you didn't burn all the paint off the car. I'm assuming that the area you worked in had been repainted. That was your ace in the hole because stock paint is NOT too friendly. Also, stepping from 1500 to 2500 is a big step. You should have went with 2000 in between those two grits. You should have also finished up with 3000 grit. Looks like no harm, no foul, no blood, no ambulance as Chick Hearn use to say.

The party is right across the street from the fairgrounds Jesse.

See you there!

You won't be staying in Carlisle. It is booked up for the next two years. Look a little further out.

That's pretty much the way it works.

If you think it vibrates a lot at 3000 OPM's, then you have sensitive hands! The only time the counter=weight is going to come into play is when you use the machine at 6800 OPM's and with a heavy back plate. With the combination that you are running at those speeds, the counter-weight is a total none issue. You are not working the polisher fast enough to be concerned. The vibration you feel is normal. Don't over-think this, just continue with your paint correction. Also, never work below 5000 OPM's when removing scratches unless you are using a thick, paste type swirl removing compound and are doing the slow cut process with the PC. Other than that, stay at 5000 OPM's (if you are using my technique), with 9-14 pounds of pressure including the weight of the polisher. Only when applying wax will you drop down to 3000 OPM's.

When you use your PC, what speed are you using it at? How does it feel?

Thanks for watching Steve. I'm glad you found them useful.

Anytime Dayton, glad I could help.

I see why it isn't working. The HTML code is turned off. Let me fix that...

The question that you want to ask is not which way is correct, but why do I do it the way I do. Simple, I wipe the product away so that I can see what I have accomplished with each application. Adam does it differently and can explain why he does it that way (I have never asked him). One thing to keep in mind is that Adam has detailed cars for a living and is use to getting the job done in a timely manner. I have never detailed cars for a living and will take 3 weeks to finish a car, if that is what it takes. We have two different mindsets. Adam details for dollars, I detail for days.

I could spend days in that setup.

Yes I am! I wish I could go ride more often but man, my time is stretched!

So when can I come over and ride.... the horses of course! :D

You live in NC, drive a sports car and have never heard of the Dragon? We have got to get you out of the house!