EdH63 Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Well, I thought I'd go ahead and post up and introduce myself. My name is Ed Hanson and I'm 47. I've worked in sales and marketing for the last 20 years for a national aftermarket company based out Schertz, TX. I've run my own detail company prior to getting into the sales side of the industry and I began my blue collar trade (detailing) back in the 80's working in car dealerships, and then expanding my skill level working in paint shops color sanding and restoration paint work. I've had a long history in the detail business and, like many of you I'm sure, enjoy laying my hands on paint finishes and working the wheel. Nothing like making chicken salad out of chicken s#!t . I'm an old school detailer that cut his teeth on Milwaukee variable high speeds and GEM 15 pound orbital buffers back in the day when I learned the art of detailing. Boy, times have change along with the tools and products. With these water based urethane formulations you really have to be careful what type products you use to get them from point A to point B. Two stage paints that run 8 to 10 mils thick burn in a heartbeat, so you have got to pay attention to the tolerances more than ever. But, isn't it great when you can stand back after working a paint job and feel the satisfaction of a job well done? I recently purchased some of the Leather dressing and the wheel cleaner tool you attach to your drill. Man, have I been looking for that tool for a while! That is going to work well on the backs of my rims. I used to scoot under the darn car and take rags and wipe the backs of the rims (ARRRRRGH!). So, the tool is a God send for me! I'm impressed with the leather dressing thus far and that has encouraged me to dive deeper into the Adams line now and look even futhur. I believe I will purchase next the car-wash caddy along with the mitts, hose nozzle, detail spray and foaming sprayer. (By the way, where is the foaming sprayer and hose nozzle attachment located on the menu? I can't find it). Anywho, I'm impressed too with the instructional video and the extent that you go into explaining your products in physical demonstration. Very nice. The cool thing about detailing is that you, the detailer, bring your personal skill into the job. I've trained many young bucks coming up through the ranks as they refine their skills, and the nice thing about getting from A to B in the detail is that there are many different techniques to achieve your results. The product line will determine how hard you work getting there, but your personal technique is what makes the detail unique. There are dos and don'ts, but this industry, if you really excel at it, can become an art form. Ok, I'll shut-up now and start reading these forums. I'm not so much looking for technique in my readings here, but I am looking for some real hardcore input on the product line and how it's working for all of you. Thanks for having me here and I'll post ya later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris@Adams Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Ed! Stay tuned the Fire nozzle & Foam Gun will be back soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awesome_SS Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdH63 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 Ah, thanks for the heads-up on that. I've gotta have that foam gun, so bring it on! I've got to post an avatar of my ride. The one I'm using is a bit dorky for this site. I'll get some pics soon and change that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormChaser Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Welcome!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc2hill Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Welcome Ed. If you have specific questions about the products, please ask away. Lots of good folks on here that like to share their knowledge and experience with the products. Stay tuned the Fire nozzle & Foam Gun will be back soon! The way Adam's runs the online store is to remove products that are out of stock instead of just showing "out of stock". If there is something specific you're looking for in the store, try the Search feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdH63 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 Thank you, I will run a search for those items. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marylander Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Hi Ed. Welcome to Adams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolth Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Ed Fire away on any ?'s people here been through a lot when it comes down to detailing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmyAcadia09 Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 WELCOME! Im from san antonio, northwest part. I'm sure you will enjoy yourself here and Adam's fine products and customer service...feel bored and wanna talk? Call the number, Adam is usually the one who answers which is very surprising! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdH63 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Is Adam's a direct manufacturer, or is this a private label with a third part manufacturer? I ask this because I want to know if Adam's has chemist(s) on staff developing the product line. Obviously there are going to be some proprietary ingredients you won't want to reveal, but what is/are the baseline ingredient(s) that Adam's is standing on that bring longevity to the waxes and/or sealers? Are you basing your finishing products on carnauba, acrylics, flouronated co-polymers... carbon based nano tubes? I ask these questions because I want to know how the finishing products (final step) is bonding to the clearcoat. You obviously want the smallest molecular particle in your products backbone so it gets into the cup of the paint pore, thus sealing the pore completely and leaving no gaping in the pore cup for elemental deposits to form. This technology doesn't come cheap and is typically built on carbon based nano-tube technology. I can see clearly that Adam's products are designed to give maximum shine with the least amount of effort, and I'm about to place an order for some of this wonder juice, but I was just wondering about the molecular structure. It goes without saying that the backbone to any products longevity and how well it holds up in the environment is going to be based on the molecular structure. All of that which is leading to this... I've been with a company for quite some time now that actually manufactures a nano based sealant. We tag a 7 year product liability and performance warranty on it that the consumer gets and it allows for repainting if the paint is damaged by a very comprehensive list of environmental and ancillary types of damage that may occur on the paint finish within term. When I was a full time detailer (back in the day) I would finish my detail with this paint sealant after going through all the necessary steps of prepping, compounding and polishing the paint. Our company manufactures a full line of detailing products, including accessories, but your product line is hands down superior to ours. Now, I'm speaking of our standard detail chemicals, not the sealant line. I have not found anything out there yet that stands up to our paint sealant as it relates to longevity and withstanding bird droppings, tree sap and acid rain in relation to how often you need to apply it. Please understand me, I'm in no way trying to market my product on your website. I just want to know if you would recommend I finish with my sealant over your polishes. I can tell I can get much better results with your polishes than mine, but I would want to finish with my sealer. Again, I'm very impressed with your products and will be ordering more and more as I read your forums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ryan Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Wow Ed! That's some crazy nano-molecular-ology. Good read! We generally don't talk ingredients around here - they are all locked in Adam's vault. Personally I seal my paint with the machine super wax after polishing, aside of knowing it's polymer based I can't tell you much except its a great sealant. I usually follow it with a coat or two of Americana carnauba. Using your companies sealant as a base (post polishing) shouldn't have any adverse affects to topping with any Adams last step products. Edit: To answer your question Adams products are almost all manufactured by adam's directly at his warehouse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdH63 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 ****it Jim! I'm a salesman, not a chemist! (Gotta love Bones) Thanks for the response, Camaro5Ryan. For ours to bond properly with the clearcoat it really needs to be the first thing down on the paint, then once cured, you can come back with glazes and polishes over it to get maximum shine. This was begging the question about yours first, or ours first and what was the base ingredient. Too much silicone (fillers) can inhibit the bonding ability of our paint sealant, so this is why we strip the paint of all fillers, glycerin and silicone based products. We want maximum bonding with the clearcoat considering we pack a 7 year warranty to the consumer. With the placement of our sealant, you would strip the paint with a fallout removal step (oxalic acid) in the wash bay, which removes a good portion of debris from the paint without the use of clay, then spot clay in your dry bay where the fallout remover didn't get it. Acid washing the paint performs two main functions. One, it allows the pores of the paint to open fully and release the particulates embedded in the clearcoat and readies them to receive sealant. It forces the paint to relax and give-up the ghost, so to speak. Secondly, it strips the paint of all existing chemical buildup and gives you a fresh pallet to work with in the dry bay. I've been looking around for a product(s) that would give me maximum shine (super drippy, slurpy wet look) that I could use in tandem with my sealant. Again, I am very impressed with the Adam's line simply by testimonial and viewing pictures on the forums here. I will be testing Adam's products and how they react with our sealant over a period of time and I'll post back, with pics, and let you know how it's going. What I'll be looking for mostly is if I get marbling or shadowing with the two lines partnering together on the paints. Typically we find that having silicone based products down on the paint first tend to create the shadowing effect (specifically on dark colors). That's easy to remedy and doesn't hurt the "protective" nature of the sealant, however, it does make the detail a bit more cumbersome and nobody wants to work harder than they have to. Thanks again for the response and I'm excited about ordering some more goodies from Adam's! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc2hill Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Adam's products don't contain silicone, so you're good there. I'm a little confused though. In my short time in detailing, I have understood that the paint (or clearcoat) is corrected first, then the sealant or wax is applied to protect the surface. But you state your sealant is applied first, before polishing. Am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdH63 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 No, you're right. I would use the prepping methods but I would use a non-silicone based polish to glaze it out before sealant. I wouldn't want to lay down any silicone or carnauba before sealant. And, I hear what you're saying about Adam's not containing silicone, but I would have to read a MSDS on the product before qualifying that. Most every form of non post paint job products contain to some degree a certain amount of silicone in them. Silicone is a filler and a shining agent, along with glycerin standing more as a shining agent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc2hill Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 And, I hear what you're saying about Adam's not containing silicone, but I would have to read a MSDS on the product before qualifying that. Here's the answer from the man himself - Great question! We are not a body-shop safe product specialist, and while some of our competitors would call their products with similar raw materials, 'silicone-free,' the fact is, there are modern polymers in the chemicals. With the exception of the Swirl & Haze Remover, which is in fact silicone-free and body shop safe, our polishes and waxes contain polymers. Polymers are technically in the silicone family, so the truth is, most of our products have silicone. (Notice, we don't do any cheesy marketing, lie about ingredients, etc. ) Why the big deal? Before clear coat paints, in the first 6 decades of the 20th century, single stage or lacquer paints were used. Body men had a terrible time repainting panels that had been polished or waxed with a heavy silicone product, as paint would simply not adhere. On those paints, the silicones could actually penetrate the finish, making the re-paint difficult. "Fish-eyes" were the big issue, and it was such an issue, people today freak out when they hear about silicones in the products! Today's clear coat finishes are not easily penetrated by anything, let alone polish and wax. Safe rule of thumb: If you plan to repaint a panel, don't polish or wax it. Hope this helps, and thanks for the great question! -Adam:thumbsup: From this thread - http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7415&highlight=silicone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdH63 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Here's the answer from the man himself - From this thread - http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7415&highlight=silicone Thank you. That does confirm that most of the Adam's products do contain some sort of silicone. I will, however, purchase some of the Swirl & Haze remover and start working with that product. I'm still going to purchase some other products too, using them on top of my sealer. I see the value in them putting a deep wet shine over it. Back in 84' the government mandated that lead come out of all paints manufactured in the US. So, what that meant was that all paints had to start being reformulated to incorporate water-based components. All automotive paints today are built on a water-based platform that are two stage (basecoat/clearcoat) urethane formulations, around 8 to 10 mils thick (factory). Unless your car has been custom painted, and you have multiple layers of clear, then you have a standard factory finish and that finish is extremely susceptible to environmental issues. The reason bird droppings, acid rain, tree sap, hard water and insects (love bugs) move through the clear so much quicker is because these paints are water-based and they do not hold up as well as they used to when they were enamel-lacquer single stage finishes. Back in the day (our fathers and their fathers), you could wash your car in kerosene and get it to shine. That was just the nature of paint back then. Basecoat and clearcoat are basically the same properties. The major difference is that clearcoat has no pigment. Clearcoat basically is basecoat without the pigment. If clearcoat protects the basecoat, then what protects the clear? Adam's products. Today, you can spiderweb a dark color with just a chamois. Paint is much softer today. This is why there is a greater need for a product like Adam's polishes and waxes on finishes today than back in the day. The trick is to bring a product to the table that eliminates the need for repetitious waxing over and over again often. Granted, there is no such thing as life time or bullet proof, but there is technology out there to keep the elements from moving through the clear for longer periods of time, thus eliminating the need to wax more often. Now, this forum is full of car aficionados and detail geeks, like me, that just love putting our hands on paint jobs, especially our own, and getting the rush from the finished product. We are different than the laymen that simply washes their car and calls it a day. So, in the end, as it relates to this forum and all you guys and gals, not waxing our car is not necessarily an option. We all "get off" to it and it validates a certain feeling inside of us all. It's something that creates pride and leaves us with an extreme sense of self accomplishment. I really enjoy the community feeling of this site and that obviously is preceded by a philosophy that the Adam's company has. I will continue to dive into the Adam's line and play with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ryan Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 We like to think we're a good crowd! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70'sChevyGirl Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 :hi: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolth Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 WOW!! Ed you seem to know your stuff there man, great tech. info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.