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HELLO holigrams


GTO Guy
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Well I got a Metabo rotary for my birthday (Aug) and I finally got around to using it. I had to use some non Adams pads and polish (SSR and green pad were not out yet) and I finally found out what all the fuss is about holograms. It really looks like some 3D stuff in your paint. UGH. Luckily I have read enough here to have kind of expected that and had a game plan to handle it.

 

Now before anyone ask I am VERY comfortable with the PC but with 110k on a Black DD in Houston there was some water etching that I was not able to remove no matter what I tried. With that said the Metabo removed them like they were NOTHING! If the flex is anything like the metabo I can't wait to to get one of those in my arsenal. I am hoping that it has the cutting power of the Metabo with the non holograming of the PC.

 

After I got the finish the way I wanted with the Metabo i pulled out the old trusty PC and went with the standard Orange/SHR, White/FMP combo I have always used but it took only 1 pass with each to get her perfect and get out all of the holograms. I have only done the horizontal surfaces and I am a jerk and didnt take any pics. I have a 1 year old and I wanted to do as much as I could while she napped. Taking pics was not in the cards today.

 

I guess you are wondering why I am sharing this with you. I just dont want anyone to freak out if they get a flex or rotary and get holograms. just remember "you always have old faithful." While you get better and adams introduces new machines and polishes, dont forget that every machine has a purpose and a PC is not a dinosaur!

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Very good post. Sure.... there'll be pic hounds after ya, but great point to make. Your detailing arsenal is like your toolbox - just because you step up doesn't mean you have to throw out the older stuff. Glad to hear you didn't lose your cool & freak out :)

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Kris, you did it right. For this being the first time you used a rotary, at least you knew what to expect and had a game plan to get rid of the holograms. 90% of time that I use my rotary, I get holograms. The PC takes care them right away. The only thing I ask is did you need to hit it with SHR? The FMP may have been enough.

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Kris, you did it right. For this being the first time you used a rotary, at least you knew what to expect and had a game plan to get rid of the holograms. 90% of time that I use my rotary, I get holograms. The PC takes care them right away. The only thing I ask is did you need to hit it with SHR? The FMP may have been enough.

 

I tried the FMP first and it worked on the sides of the car as i was not as aggresive with the rotary. The hood/roof/trunk needed the SHR but only one QUICK pass.

 

The thing that sucked most about all of this experimenting was cleaning the 7 pads when done. SUCKED! But i dont think my cars paint has ever been in this good of shape!

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in the time machine. can I borrow yours to stop time while my angel sleeps so I have time to snap a few??? :)

 

I hear you trying to do stuff when your daughter is sleeping. It's a trick that I have yet to perfect. My daughter's bedroom is on the second floor next to the garage so I to watch the amount of noise I make in the garage when I'm working.

 

I'm not sure if the Flex will leave holograms. I wouldn't think so, but it might until you get used to it. I know my game plan once my Flex arrives is to do my wife's car with the green, orange and white pads. If I have any holograms, I will break out the white on the PC.

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So does the flex trow holograms?

 

Nope. I'm sure it could if you used it with the wrong technique, but I haven't had one issue with holograms yet. You'd almost have to be trying to put them in b/c I've buffed (on purpose) using some INCORRECT techniques that I've seen people do over the years just so I'd have the answers to the questions when they came up...

 

Under worked the product

Over worked the product

Used too much product

Buffed with an edge rather than flat against the paint

Moved too quickly with the polisher

Buffed at low speed

etc.

 

None produced holograms, I was able to create some nasty hazing on my paint by using too low of speed and a short work time, but other than that I didn't see any issues that would make me believe you could easily introduce holograms.

 

Holograms are the result of any number of factors including, pad type, product choice, paint type (some are more susceptible than others), technique, speed, etc. It is possible to get 100% perfection with a rotary, but its difficult and to be honest most pros finish down with a DA after rotary polishing for this exact reason.

 

Basically you need to become comfortable with the idea of doing heavy correction with the rotary, then stepping down gradually to the PC or Flex for your final polishing. Think of machines much in the same way you think of the polishes and pads... you step down in aggressiveness as you get closer to finishing until you get to the finest (or least aggressive) approach.

 

Make sense? Good luck! :2thumbs:

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Nope. I'm sure it could if you used it with the wrong technique, but I haven't had one issue with holograms yet. You'd almost have to be trying to put them in b/c I've buffed (on purpose) using some INCORRECT techniques that I've seen people do over the years just so I'd have the answers to the questions when they came up...

 

Under worked the product

Over worked the product

Used too much product

Buffed with an edge rather than flat against the paint

Moved too quickly with the polisher

Buffed at low speed

etc.

 

None produced holograms, I was able to create some nasty hazing on my paint by using too low of speed and a short work time, but other than that I didn't see any issues that would make me believe you could easily introduce holograms.

 

Holograms are the result of any number of factors including, pad type, product choice, paint type (some are more susceptible than others), technique, speed, etc. It is possible to get 100% perfection with a rotary, but its difficult and to be honest most pros finish down with a DA after rotary polishing for this exact reason.

 

Basically you need to become comfortable with the idea of doing heavy correction with the rotary, then stepping down gradually to the PC or Flex for your final polishing. Think of machines much in the same way you think of the polishes and pads... you stedown in aggressiveness as you get closer to finishing until you get to the finest (or least aggressive) approach.

 

Make sense? Good luck! :2thumbs:

 

so would the flex be able to knock out the etching as fast as the metabo did? I am by no means questioning the flex but wondering what polisher to start with the next time I see etching. also, if I get a flex, is the PC non needed? can the flex do EVERYTHING the PC can do?

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so would the flex be able to knock out the etching as fast as the metabo did? I am by no means questioning the flex but wondering what polisher to start with the next time I see etching.

 

As fast? No... the rotary is always going to cut faster... thats the nature of that machine. The trade off is its much more difficult to finish with the rotary (and the obvious added risk if misused) Thats not to say the Flex couldn't do it, but it would take more time/more passes potentially. Just depends on how severe the etching is.

 

also, if I get a flex, is the PC non needed? can the flex do EVERYTHING the PC can do?

 

The Flex is great for correcting... not so good for application. You CAN use one of the gray PC pads and the Flex around speed 2 for MSW application... but in testing we continually had problems with uneven application and on a black or dark car that leads to uneven or blotchy looking finishes.

 

Also consider that the Flex has absolutely no ability to change backing plates, so for buffing in tight spots w/ the 4" pads the PC is still the best option if you don't want to use the drill.

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