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Rotary polisher...anyone using?


jub jub

Question

I was watching car detailing videos on Youtube and there are quite a few detailers that use rotaries. It seems the rotaries are best to remove what's left after wet sanding. I understand they take some skill to use properly with many going to a junk yard to get body panels to practice on.

 

So, with that being said, how many on this forum use, or believe in using rotary buffers/polishers?

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I certainly believe it it, but am SCARED of them. :help:

 

I will stick with the Porter Cable 7424 for now. My next step may be a Flex...little more oomph than the PC. I forget the manufacturer, but I believe that either DeWalt or Makita makes a polisher that is configurable to be used as either a rotary or DA. :thumbsup: I figure if it's something so bad that it needs rotary attention that I will take it to a body shop.....just my opinion however. I don't trust myself in certain situations.

 

Good idea testing with something you don't care too much about. :xfingers:

 

Good luck!

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I've used rotaries for years, but they do require an experienced, delicate "touch." Depending on compounds used, it's darned easy to "burn through" paint right down to bare metal with one! It's also easy for a novice to lose control (as with a large floor polisher), and allow the edge of the wheel or the side of the buffer itself to crash into things.

 

As implied here, they are handy when a reletively large amount of material (paint) needs to be removed, or after a wet sanding. Well-maintained paint doesn't require this apparatus, although an experienced user can apply polish successfully with one using a light touch. Even then, swirls will be present on dark colors, requiring a hand-applied product (like swirl-remover, or butter wax) to eliminate them.

 

That being said, as time passes, technology replaces the "old guard." Orbital polishers will do the job better, easier, and with more "forgiveness" allowed the user. Technology has improved sandpaper too. A decade ago, wet sanding was done with "ultra-fine" brand paper, that was about 1500 grit. Now, hand sanding can be finished up with 3000 grit, leaving almost a polished finish--much smaller remaining scratches to be buffed away than with the old ultra-fine.

 

As a side note, always use a cross-hatch pattern on final wet sanding. Those patterns are much easier to remove than long-line patterns. 3Ms orbital sanding system also uses about a 3000-equivalent grit paper, and leaves small circles that buff away with relative ease.

 

There I go writing a novel again! Just can't help myself--I've "massaged" thousands of paint finishes "back from the dead."

Edited by perfectionist
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I Have and use a Rotary,PC,Flex and a UDM But as stated above Rotary can cause damage fast if missused .Key to a Rotary is respect not fear of the tool.I use mine for really severe jobs as most of the Time I reach for my Flex3401

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If you want to get a rotary I first recommend picking up a used hood or fender panel from the local auto junk yard and start practicing on that and see what RPM speeds work well. You obviously want to use low speeds like 1000-1400 but of course it depends on bad the defects are.

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I bought a DeWalt 849 polisher to cut and buff my finish. I was afraid at first, but after learning to work the trigger to control my speed and castoff, it worked great. I still use it to apply wax and polishes. As long as I keep my speed down (1000) and feather the trigger, it works for me. I think I'll be looking to get a PC D/A though too. That 849 starts to get alittle heavy after a while.

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I get my Metabo on fri! WOOO HOOO! I'll give my reviews for sure!

 

Why a Metabo and not the Flex 3403 ? As I own both and find the Flex 3403 More desirable. In the fact that it has a trigger rather than an on/off switch .

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I have one and I just generally tell people -

 

You don't need a bazooka to swat flies. If you keep your car up the need for a rotary isn't there. Now if you're gonna do some serious restoration work on a car then yes, very great tool to have.

 

As was stated it takes a good amount of skill to use one and not totally destroy your paint.

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Why a Metabo and not the Flex 3403 ? As I own both and find the Flex 3403 More desirable. In the fact that it has a trigger rather than an on/off switch .

 

better price. (my uncle is a BIG metabo dealer) I would love to try the flex and i feel in the next few years i will have quite a few options in my stable.

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