Check my check list please.

[11Camaro]

Hi,

 

I have two donor cars to try out my new PC before I work over the black camaro, might go americana for that. I haven't wax a car in 20 years! I used to detail cars at a carwash when I was in high school, again, 100 years ago.

 

Anyway I have my mothers white honda del sol. It was probably never washed or waxed in the 17 years she's had it. And a friends 04-05 blue Scion TC. That probably hasn't been touch with a wax job since new.

 

I haven't really inspected the cars up close due to the rainy weather here, but I imagine the worst case scenario.

 

Sorry, no acronyms!

1. I was going to start with the two bucket wash and rinse.

2. Clay bar (wash again??)

3. Severe Swirl Remover Polish

4. Swirl & Haze Remover Polish

5. Fine Machine Polish

6. Machine SuperWax

 

Then maybe put on some buttery wax by hand?

 

Again, I don't know the exact condition of the paint yet, but it ain't gonna be pretty. I can imagine that metallic blue popping on the scion and the white glaring on the honda! There are no expectations from anyone which is good, just need to get some tecnique and practice.

 

I'll take some before and after as soon as this monsoon rolls over so I can start.

[Chewy]

Just keep in mind, if you're going for full correction on these two cars, they'll probably take you no less than 20 hours per vehicle or more as you're just learning.

 

There's no need to wash after claying. You can either let the DS dry and polish over it, or wipe as you go.

 

If you put BW on, you'll need to allow 12 hours for the MSS to cure first. On these test cars, I'd forgo the BW and stick to one application of MSS.

 

Oh, and all Adams acronyms are now turned into their full titles. M.S.S. without the periods MSS.

[THE Mook]

Looks like you have it down man!

 

Keep an eye on the clay residue...if it looks too dirty you can always douse it in Waterless Wash to have a clean-er surface to polish on.

 

Keep the Vol. 7 Video around!

 

Mook

[Team Adam's]

My general recommendation is to start in the middle (SHR) and go thru the process from there in your test section and evaluate. Starting in the middle gives you good measure if you need more or less aggressive means to get the job done rather than just jumping to full tilt on the first go.

[Chewy]

My general recommendation is to start in the middle (SHR) and go thru the process from there in your test section and evaluate. Starting in the middle gives you good measure if you need more or less aggressive means to get the job done rather than just jumping to full tilt on the first go.

 

:iagree: SSR was only a pipe dream a year ago, so we used SHR for everything.

 

Chris

[11Camaro]

thanks for the replies fellas, i appreciate it.

[chrisguga]

My general recommendation is to start in the middle (SHR) and go thru the process from there in your test section and evaluate. Starting in the middle gives you good measure if you need more or less aggressive means to get the job done rather than just jumping to full tilt on the first go.

While this is good advice, I'd be STUNNED if these cars won't require 6-8 complete sets of SSR and the green pad on every panel to fully correct the paint when checked under 500w halogens or a sun gun. Then, check them under strip lighting for a different perspective before you go to SHR/orange and FMP/white.

[Guest Gone & Forgotten]

I bought my Ram in March, did a correction on it then... not as hardcore as the one I recently did.. but.. nonetheless... I did NOT properly take care of this truck with 2 bucket washes and the whole 9 yards since then. Life's been hectic for me and working too much and 100* heat and yadda yadda... so.

 

When I felt my paint (silver truck, hard to see swirlies) - 100 grit sandpaper. I know sandpaper, I'm a painter/handyman by trade.

 

I INSTANTLY went for the green stuff (Severe). With new pads - it was a no-brainer. I used the GREEN stuff exclusively on my whole truck. It took about 8 hours (2 visits) - 4 passes on each panel (door, door, half hood, half hood - you get the pattern) - and then followed with normal polish, Machine Super Wax - but the truck is perfect.

 

I'm sure I'll get poo-poo'd for skipping the Orange pad step, but the GREEN with the PC seemed to work wonders.

 

Deeper colors like blacks, blues, reds.. you may need the Orange step to get out finer cuts in the clear coat that I don't see on a Silver truck - but - it saved me a couple more hours.

 

My advice (not knowing the age of the Camaro), skip the tester vehicles, all they will do is cost you time and product. (Unless you have extra product). These pads take a beating when you're new at this - I killed a set pretty quick when I was a n00b.

 

DO NOT allow the product to cake, if you do, you're using too much product. Using a shot of Detail Spray to awaken product on the pad is perfectly okay, especially since you're just gonna make another pass anyway. It's fine to wash your pads when you think they are getting dirty - The GREEN stuff has a pop-time. You need to work the product at lower OPM's for a minute or so - when it's opaque, crank her up and hold on good.

 

BLUE TAPE EVERYTHING and USE RAGS. For instance, I pop my hood and put old t-shirts over the cowl to keep sling and such off the wiper area, then ease the hood shut. I tuck them under my bed liner that sits atop the rails of my truck bed to keep from bumping a pad up against the sharp edges of that plastic bed liner and tearing the pad...

 

Take the time to prep - take the time to look long and hard at your work area before you move on to the next panel. If you get tired... walk away. I'm 40, my back started hurting after 3-4 hours. I left it alone - went back the next morning and finished.

 

I'll see if I can post a video, think I shot one with the Bloggie.

[chrisguga]

^^ good post.

 

I'd also skip the test vehicles to be honest. You're not going to hurt anything with the Adam's pads and polishes. They're very mild on a PC.

 

I also use a ton of tape. Buy the green automotive stuff at Walmart, Autozone, etc.

 

Get a fairly stiff bristled brush, turn the PC to 3, and work the brush over the pad for a few seconds at least every 2 sets of polishing and watch the caked on dust fly. This is important to keep the pad biting.

 

Also, that first wash should be with Dawn to get all of the old polish and wax off.

[Chris@Adams]

Nick post up some pics when done!