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Tough swirl spot...


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I have some swirls on my 2011 Camaro in the area from the door handle to the side view mirror between the window and that slight lip in the door. (Just those few vertical inches across the length of the door.

 

There's a lip there so I'm worried about burning through the clear coat on the edges... See the attached photo to show exactly where I mean.

 

What do you guys recommend I use to buff those out? Is a PC safe there with one of those 4" pads or should I just try to do it by hand?

 

Thanks in advance for your replies!

attachment.php?attachmentid=292827&stc=1&d=1317542004

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Guest Gone & Forgotten

Use painter's tape, BLUE or GREEN masking.

 

*Tape off the mirror, window rubber moldings, etc.

*Use the 4" orange on a drill (12v-18v okay).

* Put some SHR on the pad, spritz with DS, blot over the area, don't want too much DS on the pad, these pads SLING everywhere.

*Start the drill slow, very slow and work the product into the area you need, use light pressure, very light.

*once the product begins to slightly haze or looks like it won't sling, increase the speed of the drill to a comfortable speed.

 

I DO NOT sit there and work my product from a drill like I do the PC. I work it once/twice and then stop, wipe and check for the blemish and any burning from my pad. Then I go back if needed.

 

Follow with a white pad/Polish and it should look great.

 

I had to do BOTH of my doors this way on my 2011 LS today. I'll link you the photos, videos if you're interested.

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/general-detailing-discussion-questions/14159.htm

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Use painter's tape, BLUE or GREEN masking.

 

*Tape off the mirror, window rubber moldings, etc.

*Use the 4" orange on a drill (12v-18v okay).

* Put some SHR on the pad, spritz with DS, blot over the area, don't want too much DS on the pad, these pads SLING everywhere.

*Start the drill slow, very slow and work the product into the area you need, use light pressure, very light.

*once the product begins to slightly haze or looks like it won't sling, increase the speed of the drill to a comfortable speed.

 

I DO NOT sit there and work my product from a drill like I do the PC. I work it once/twice and then stop, wipe and check for the blemish and any burning from my pad. Then I go back if needed.

 

Follow with a white pad/Polish and it should look great.

 

I had to do BOTH of my doors this way on my 2011 LS today. I'll link you the photos, videos if you're interested.

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/general-detailing-discussion-questions/14159.htm

 

Do what he said, I did some of mine this weekend, and PC + Focus FTW

 

:iagree:

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Hey Bob, just out of my curiosity and lack of knowledge, why do you use a drill and not the PC?

I don't know the exact numbers but a drill goes at like 4 million RPMs and has forced rotation while the PC is up to like 10,000 rpms and no forced rotation. The drill is easy to burn through paint on raised edges and humps.

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I don't know the exact numbers but a drill goes at like 4 million RPMs and has forced rotation while the PC is up to like 10,000 rpms and no forced rotation. The drill is easy to burn through paint on raised edges and humps.

 

Bob was saying in his instructions that he did use a drill. I agree with you that a drill has much more inherent danger, so why not just use the PC?

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Guest Gone & Forgotten

I'm well steeped in holding power tools. I've been remodeling homes since I was 18 (I'm 40), so I feel I have more control with the drill - something I'm well used to holding and controlling. The PC has seen issues of pads flying off, backing plates busting, etc. In the last month, I've seen 3-4 threads started by people with damage on their cars from PC/Focus pad combos failing on them either from misuse or faulty equipment.

 

Most people on here love the PC/FP combo - Dylan is an EXPERT, I'm not. I use what I trust. I trust myself not to run the drill long enough to burn edges. Short runs, one, two passes and repeat til the little scratch is gone.

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