Process

[dlee116]

Hey all,

 

Just got my first car, a 2012 Dodge Charger, and am excited to clean it up. It's got a few swirls here and there but it's been driven in the rain and has gotten a little dirty. I just wanted to make sure my process is sound before I start anything this weekend, as it figures to be some pretty good weather.

 

1. Strip Wash - As of right now I have no foam gun so what would you recommend as an APC:Car Shampoo ratio in the bucket? 2 oz APC:4 oz Shampoo? Also, are there any precautions I should take with the strip wash, such as leaving it on the paint for too long?

2. Clay

3. Re-Wash - Could I use the same strip wash soap I had or would you recommend starting out fresh with just the car shampoo? Or just skip the re-wash and just do a rinse to get the detail spray off?

4. Dry

5. Revive - I know the correction potential with revive is very small, so I was thinking of just doing a test spot to see if I like the results.

6. Spray Sealant

7. Brilliant Glaze

8. Buttery Wax

 

Also, for cleaning the wheels, I do not have the Boar's Hair Wheel Brush yet. Would it be alright to use a wash pad, as I have a few extra of those? And should I use Green Wheel Cleaner with those or just the strip wash or regular wash soap?

 

Thanks for the help!

[TK427]

It looks like you will be doing this by hand from the looks of it, the ratio is good for your strip wash and after you wash it, I wouldn’t just go take a hour long break or anything, but you should be fine just to wash and dry then proceed!

 

To do any correcting by hand will take a good amount of work, so save up those penny’s and get a machine for the correction part.

 

Revive is a great hand polish though, and a great work out for your biceps

 

Green wheel cleaner will do most of the work for you on the wheels, and be careful with the wash mitt. Save up for the Blonde brush

[dlee116]

Thanks for the help man!

[davidg]

2 bucket wash. I would personally use fresh soap. Stripping agents don't provided lubrication. No one has ever said if it actually removes some of them in the soap when mixed. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Plus, after wash one you'll have grit in the bottom of the bucket. No point in any correction if you wash with dirt and water. Other than that you should be fine. I think the spray sealant needs to gas out just like the machine sealant. Someone will probably chime in on that. If so wait 24 hours before applying glaze and butter wax.

[mc2hill]

I think the spray sealant needs to gas out just like the machine sealant. Someone will probably chime in on that. If so wait 24 hours before applying glaze and butter wax.

 

The 'cure' time for the QS is only about 30 minutes vs. 12-24 hours for the MSS. So apply QS, wait 30 minutes, and top it however you want.

[Theis]

So do you truly need to wash again after claying or can you go straight into shr

[mc2hill]

I don't wash again, but others do. It is your choice.

 

As Dylan often says 'Detailing is an art, not a science'. Different weather, humidity, paint, and work areas make it hard for an ALWAYS DO IT LIKE THIS approach. Use the guidelines, ask questions (like you did), and experiment on your own to see what works best for you.

[Osok]

So do you truly need to wash again after claying or can you go straight into shr

It's personal preference. If I'm polishing with a machine I'll just do a wipe down after claying with IPA and not rewash.

 

There's plenty of folks on the forums that do a second wash.

[Tim]

Make sure you need to clay (baggie test) before actually doing it. You may be able to skip that step.

[Theis]

Alrighty will do thank you friends

[Doug123]

The baggie test is your indicator/friend for claying. Check with baggie, clay, check with baggie, etc. until that paint is smooth and nice. Some spots will take more work than others.

 

You don't have to lean on the clay, just make a flat pancake on your DS wetted glass and then wipe that smooth side on your DS wetted paint.