?'s on IPA wipe down before machine polish.

[Kenneth]

I want to begin a full correction but I have a question. I don't have a garage so I will be doing the machine polish outside. I want to know can I do a regular wash with car shampoo and then do an IPA wipe down one panel at a time? Like IPA wipe down the hood, machine polish, and seal. That would leave all other panels still protected. I'm worried about doing a full strip wash and not finishing the correction.

[ihaveacamaro]

so polish, then ipa? i guess mist it on, wipe with great wht mf, waterless wash mf, or single soft mf? and the ipa doesnt harm shine provided by, or remove polish? sorry, im slow

 

No worries we are here to help

 

1) Yes polish, then IPA wipedown. I wouldn't use a great white or a weterless wash mf, but rather a single soft mf. The reason is that of those three, the single soft mf has the longest nap (microfiber length) and that is where the polish residue will accumulate. If you have a shorter nap (ie the great white or waterless) it is easy to saturate the towel with residue and then you have to flip it over to a clean side. I imagine if you flip over the great white or waterless towel a lot, then you should be fine, but I prefer the easier route with a single soft mf.

 

2) IPA will only remove polish. It won't affect the shine created by the polish.

 

Polish should all be removed by the ipa. Polish isn't meant for shine technically, it's a step of abrasives used to remove imperfections. The imperfections in the surface are what prevent shine. The glaze and wax will be what shines and protects. I think I said that right.

 

Polish, by being a light abrasive, is meant for shine and removing defects. When you think about it, removing defects and shine are ONE AND THE SAME

 

The glaze and wax will add a little shine, but are there mostly for protection. The way I see it is that 90% of the shine comes from polishing and about 10% comes from wax. This is not scientific proof, just personal experience.

 

The reason glaze and wax will add shine to a car is because if you look at the microscopic level, even the finest abrasive will still leave scratch marks. Sure you can't see these with the human eye, but they are there. That is due to the nature of being abrasive (or rather scratch-causing).

 

So when you apply glaze and wax, you are filling in these microscopic scratches and leveling the surface even more. By doing so, and creating (temporarily) a scratch free surface, even at the microscopic level, you are allowing for even refraction of light when it hits the surface of your car... aka shine

 

so how do you avoid/or remove streaks after an ipa before sealant/glaze/wax?

 

IPA is rubbing alcohol. If you have ever put rubbing alcohol on your body, you know that it will evaporate fairly quickly. The same thing will happen when you apply IPA to a body panel. As you apply it, you will see streaks, and then within seconds they will evaporate

[dave 316]

^^^thanks so much for the time!!^^ lets change your namre to ihaveashelby!!:lol:

one more question. the strip wash i want to do would combine the 2 areas i've seen here. 2oz apc/4oz car shampoo and 2 oz of dawn in a foam gun and wash bucket. is that over kill, or pure insurance that i will be completely stripped of wax?. hearing diff techniques putting on tha machine glaze, letting it sit for a few hours, removing it, then let the car sit 24 hours to cure before glaze and wax?, is that overkill?

Edited February 8, 2013 by dave 316

[ihaveacamaro]

^^^thanks so much for the time!!^^ lets change your namre to ihaveashelby!!:lol:

one more question. the strip wash i want to do would combine the 2 areas i've seen here. 2oz apc/4oz car shampoo and 2 oz of dawn in a foam gun and wash bucket. is that over kill, or pure insurance that i will be completely stripped of wax?. hearing diff techniques putting on tha machine glaze, letting it sit for a few hours, removing it, then let the car sit 24 hours to cure before glaze and wax?, is that overkill?

 

OK you asked a few questions here, so I will try to go down in order.

 

1) I will be happy to take yours off your hands

 

2) 2 oz APC and 4 oz Car Shampoo in ~4 gallons should be more than enough to take off the wax. You don't need the dawn in the foam gun, that's overkill. Remember, both claying and polishing would also remove any remaining wax, so don't worry about it too much and just attack it!

 

3) Can't speak on the machine glaze, never used it sorry hopefully someone else will chime in on this for you.

Edited February 8, 2013 by ihaveacamaro

[dave 316]

my mistake, the glaze i know, my question was about the machine super sealant

[ihaveacamaro]

my mistake, the glaze i know, my question was about the machine super sealant

 

yeah I figured that was what you were talking about. I haven't used it unfortunately, but a good place to start is by following Adam's recommendations. If you go to the product page where you can buy it, there should be a recommended method to applying it.

[ihaveacamaro]

as far as curing goes, waiting 24 hours before glaze and wax can't hurt

[chrisalecia]

You can use IPA to ensure the previous LSP has been removed before the polishing step, and also use it after the polishing step to be sure all the polishing oils have been removed prior to applying MSS.

 

As Dave said, use WCW or DS to clean each panel first, then IPA and you are ready to polish.

 

Sorry guys, getting a little lost with all the acronyms. I did keep up for a while though:

 

What is - LSP and WCW

[JBlack151]

LSP: Last Step Product such as a sealant or wax.

 

WCW: Should be two Ws as it stands for Waterless Wash.

[chrisalecia]

Cool John, thanks.