Needs more wax?

[Mamba]

So I detailed my car a month or less ago, used quick sealant, glaze and then Americana. A week and a half ago, I washed the car again and reapplied glaze and Americana. It was beading like a champ, but today I noticed that the beads in the rear fender were not contained as nicely as before and were starting to spread a little. Should I reapply wax? I'm worried about hazing if I keep adding layers of wax. Or is it time to reseal? Or is this normal lol

[Chewy]

Seems odd that it'd be needing waxed already.  Are you using Adams Shampoo to wash the car?  Does it sit outside a lot?  

 

Did you clay and polish prior to applying the LSP?  

 

Quick sealant alone should give you 3 months+ of beading.  Heck, my car was still beading like I applied it the day before after 8 months and winter driving.

 

Chris

[goheels]

Definitely not normal.  If the quick sealant works anything like the MSS (and by the majority of people on here, it does) you should be getting several months of protection and beading.  The only thing I can figure is what Chris suggested above, such that you are applying a soap that is not pH neutral during washing.  Is it just limited to the rear fender?

[Mamba]

man, thats not what i wanted to hear    Hood is better, but still doesn't bead as it did when I just applied the wax.  rear fender is where it was more obvious. It does sit outside all day, no shade either. It's my only car, but since I work from home I do not give it very many miles.  I've also only ever used adam's products on it, including the Swirl and Haze remover and Fine machine polish when i detailed it with the flex.  Could it be that the glaze it really eating away at it, or maybe all the pollen?

[THE Mook]

Ivan,

 

You ARE using Adam's Car Shampoo or another pH neutral soap to wash?

[Mamba]

yep, i am.  My wash process is using 3 buckets (with grit guards), a merino wool mitt and a 9x9 microfiber pad for the lower half, and Adam's shampoo. I use a foam gun prior to using the pads with adam's shampoo and an ounce or so of waterless wash. spray it all with detail spray after and dry with a great white towel.  I have the super sealant, but i haven't used it because i cannot store it inside right now, and all the pollen that would fall on it overnight would probably not be good.

[Chewy]

Personally, I think AQS blows MSS away in longevity.  This is just been my observation on my black DD.  

 

I don't know what to tell you Ivan!  Try stripping the fender and just apply two applications of AQS and see what that does for ya.  

[THE Mook]

yep, i am.  My wash process is using 3 buckets (with grit guards), a merino wool mitt and a 9x9 microfiber pad for the lower half, and Adam's shampoo. I use a foam gun prior to using the pads with adam's shampoo and an ounce or so of waterless wash. spray it all with detail spray after and dry with a great white towel.  I have the super sealant, but i haven't used it because i cannot store it inside right now, and all the pollen that would fall on it overnight would probably not be good.

 

 

MSS doesn't need 12 hours to wait for wiping it off.  It needs 30 minutes, then 12 hours before you layer.

 

Either way, IMO Quick Sealant shouldn't be gone this quickly.

 

 

Try stripping a panel, re-applying only QS, and take some observations and notes.

Mook

[Mamba]

Mook, how would you strip the panel?  I have seen posts where people say just spray some APC on the panel and wipe after or during the wash, others say add it to the foam gun with the shampoo.  Should i do an IPA wipedown after too?

 

Also it seems like the agreed issue is that the QS is gone, as opposed to the wax which I initially thought. If i use MSS, you're saying it's ok that after the initial 30 minutes when i wipe it, anything that falls on it (pollen) won't get cured on top with the sealant?

[Chewy]

I use IPA, but APC works too!  Heck, I do a complete IPA wipe down after correcting to get all the oils off the paint before laying down my LSP. 

[THE Mook]

Mook, how would you strip the panel?  I have seen posts where people say just spray some APC on the panel and wipe after or during the wash, others say add it to the foam gun with the shampoo.  Should i do an IPA wipedown after too?

 

Also it seems like the agreed issue is that the QS is gone, as opposed to the wax which I initially thought. If i use MSS, you're saying it's ok that after the initial 30 minutes when i wipe it, anything that falls on it (pollen) won't get cured on top with the sealant?

 

The sealant is technically done after 30 minutes.   The 12-24 hour waiting period is in case you laid it down heavy in spots...those spots will show.  That said, pollen falling on it overnight, depending how thick, could be removed with Adam's Waterless Wash and Waterless Wash Towels.  At this point, I wouldn't even worry about that.

 

Use some 70% Iso. Alcohol, on a clean Double Soft, and strip the panel.  Then re-apply Quick Sealant.

Edited May 24, 2013 by Mook@Adams

[ForceofWill]

Did you look at the beading on the car after it was clean?  It's got quite a bit of pollen on it in those pictures.  Dirt/pollen on the surface will affect your beading like that.  Sometimes I think my car isn't beading like it should as well when dirty.  Wash it and then try.

[Mamba]

Did you look at the beading on the car after it was clean?  It's got quite a bit of pollen on it in those pictures.  Dirt/pollen on the surface will affect your beading like that.  Sometimes I think my car isn't beading like it should as well when dirty.  Wash it and then try.

 

Good point, I will see after I wash it. It rained last night and it looks like it might rain here again pretty soon but hopefully that's all it is.

[THE Mook]

Did you look at the beading on the car after it was clean?  It's got quite a bit of pollen on it in those pictures.  Dirt/pollen on the surface will affect your beading like that.  Sometimes I think my car isn't beading like it should as well when dirty.  Wash it and then try.

 

 

GREAT POINT man!  I don't deal with pollen like most do in this dry climate...so that very well could be the jerk in this whole ballgame!

[Captain Slow]

Did you look at the beading on the car after it was clean?  It's got quite a bit of pollen on it in those pictures.  Dirt/pollen on the surface will affect your beading like that.  Sometimes I think my car isn't beading like it should as well when dirty.  Wash it and then try.

This is the answer. I thought my Sealant had failed on my rear window and trunk lid after Wednesday's rain. My car was yellow with pollen before going to the office. After a quick wash the beading is back like MAAAAAD! The pollen and dirt film just needed to be removed. I detail sprayed it this AM for grins n giggles. She's back to her lovely self, now if that pollen would just go away...

[camaro2ssblack]

See above but also realize that with a black daily driven car that's parked outside, you are fighting every possible battle in regards to the duration of the protection you can expect from these products. For ultimate protection using Adams, you need to go with 2 coats of MSS 12 hours apart and Americana as a topper. If you want the ultimate protection for a daily driver, you need to look into a coating.

 

Also. Don't let beading be the ultimate test of your LSP. I am far more concerned with sheeting than beading. The last thing I want is water droplets baking in the sun on my black car after a quick rain. I want to be able to take a quick spin and have all the droplets slide off until I can take proper care of the paint.

 

By the way, we have the same birthday and practically the same car...you must be pretty special too?! Lol j/k

Edited May 24, 2013 by camaro2ssblack