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Paint sealant not coming off "even"?


tscan

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So I just did a full paint correction this weekend and when I got the the very last step after a 10 hour session, the sealant was not coming off "even". What I mean by "even" is that you can tell (only in the sunshine), where there were different amounts of pressure applied on the towel when removing the sealant. I've tried to take a picture but it's only visible in person really. Does anyone know what I mean? Did I use too much, not enough, bad batch? I honestly have no idea. Honestly super disappointing when you pour this much time into your car and it actually looked BETTER before I applied the paint sealant.

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Travis, sounds like you may be seeing symptoms of two things; likely using too much product and a little bit uneven on the application.  What it sounds like you're seeing is some of the sealant still on the surface.

 

Did you try anything to fix it, other than wiping with a towel?  A quick shot of DS should remedy it and aid in leveling it out.

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I took some rinseless wash to it as my very first idea, didn't seem to help at all. I can try to get some pictures of it but it is really hard to pick up, but the whole car is like this. It's very "spotty" in some areas. I should've just used the damn cyclo but my arms were so tired. blah. I'm guessing it will just even out or fade with the natural deterioration of paint sealants over time?

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I did the same thing and decided it was my application that was too thick in some places.  Seems what I did first was more even and came off very easily.   So it was an operator mistake and not product failure.   Now I know better for next time.  :)  Adam warned me in the video. 

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Yeah some areas were a total pain in the *** to remove, almost like wax residue. I guess I just used way too much. I was using the microfiber applicator and I only applied more when I couldn't get it to spread along the panel. How long until it evened out for you Feets31?

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I was inconsistent and it was worst in places.  More like wax.   The roof which I did first the easiest and came right off.  The other areas were not terrible, but required a little more work.  I just used a cloth to get it off and no detail spray or rinseless, it wasn't that bad. 

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I'd recommend putting down more over a bad area using the Cyclo and remove.  See if it comes out OK and if it does, move on.  

 

I had the car in the garage and did a full paint correction right after clay. The car has been driven since then so chances are theres minute amounts of dust/debris on the car. Guessing I should wash, dry, and then re-apply the sealant just to be safe? My car looked soooo good I'd hate to swirl it back up again.

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Liquid Paint Sealant is IMO intended for use with a machine.  If you did a full paint correction, you had a machine out...

 

Unless I am misunderstanding post #3...why did you choose to use it by hand?  (Even though it says it can be applied by hand on the site and label, the intent of the machine is for Even Application....so that you don't tiger stripe a car.)

Edited by THE Mook
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Liquid Paint Sealant is IMO intended for use with a machine.  If you did a full paint correction, you had a machine out...

 

Unless I am misunderstanding post #3...why did you choose to use it by hand?  (Even though it says it can be applied by hand on the site and label, the intent of the machine is for Even Application....so that you don't tiger stripe a car.)

 

 

I should've just used the damn cyclo but my arms were so tired. blah. 

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Yeah, what he said :). I work in an office for a living and I'm new to this, so after holding onto the Cyclo for hours on end my forearms were spent haha. Lesson learned no worries.

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Travis, use a Porter Cable for a couple of days and then you'll understand how good you have it!   ;)

 

Keep in mind that the machine is turned down to like #2 for LSP applications so it's super easy to handle. 

 

 

Chris

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Travis, use a Porter Cable for a couple of days and then you'll understand how good you have it!   ;)

 

Keep in mind that the machine is turned down to like #2 for LSP applications so it's super easy to handle. 

 

 

Chris

 

I bought a PC and tried it out, immediately returned it. NOPE

 

Cyclo was definitely a pleasure to use. Just not for 9 hours straight :).

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I had issues doing it by hand because my car is black and the slightest smudge can be seen. On the next application, I used a black pad with my PC on 2 and it was a much better application. Some tight areas were tricky, so I used detail spray to level it out.

Edited by mike690001
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I had issues doing it by hand because my car is black and the slightest smudge can be seen. On the next application, I used a black pad with my PC on 2 and it was a much better application. Some tight areas were tricky, so I used detail spray to level it out.

 

I too have a black car! So hard to get perfect, but when you do, man do they look good.

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Just a thought on this. Did you do an IPA wipe down or any kind of a paint cleaner step to insure the residues from the prior polishes were removed before you laid down the sealant? I've seen these smudges or areas that look uneven due to the paint not being properly prepped for sealants.

Edited by JBlack151
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Just a thought on this. Did you do an IPA wipe down or any kind of a paint cleaner step to insure the residues from the prior polishes were removed before you laid down the sealant? I've seen these smudges or areas that look uneven due to the paint not being properly prepped for sealants.

 

Definitely, the car looked perfect before the paint sealant. I did a final wipe down with a microfiber and then another full wipedown with a waterless wash towel + alcohol.

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I also have a black car and applied by hand and never had an issue. When I applied a thinner layer of sealant it was definitely easier to buff off with little to no effort. Otherwise if you put it on thicker you'll have to buff it out longer and harder. This is one of my favorite Adam's products, my car literally looks like glass and I don't think it could be any slicker or smoother. I LOVE IT!!! :2thumbs:

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