13dgmwrx Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Well to start off, here is a couple shots of my car. It may look really good in pictures and in person. Also, has a lot less scratches in it then most daily driven cars, but there are plenty that I know are there haha Here is my ccollection, got it nice and organized the other day. Everything fits nicely Decided I would practice on the hood. I practiced with the upper passenger corner of it since there was a noticeable scratch in the clear from my own car key ... (I was scraping snow and ice off the windshield and I had my keys in my hand that was holding the scraper and when I did the lower section of the windshield, the key hung down far enough and caught the hood... I wanted to cry... A little haha) I then did the whole hood, started with the orange foam and correcting, followed with the finishing and white foam. Then hand applied buttery on it since my sealant and glaze hadn't shown up yet. I'll strip wash the car later and do the whole car with a full 5 step. But for now, learning the Griots machine went very well. Got all scratches out and learned how much pressure it needs to work well with what speed. I will update this thread as I go along with the car. Team Adam's and Aaron@P2PQD 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marylander Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Very nice! I like that color -- classy yet aggressive, 13dgmwrx 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris@Adams Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Looks good! 13dgmwrx 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13dgmwrx Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Thanks guys. I really can't wait to get started on the whole car. Just got my sealant and black pads yesterday. Waiting on my other package to come in with the glaze and red pad. Looks good! Chris, I see that you suggest applying the glaze over the finshing residue. Should I wipe off the residue after I apply the glaze, then do sealant? Or can the sealant be applied over top of the glaze/finishing residue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyBlackHoe Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 You do not want to put the sealant over the residue. You need to wipe all residue off and then apply the sealant. 13dgmwrx 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13dgmwrx Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 That's what I thought. Just wanted to be sure. I wouldn't have gone through with doing that unless someone said otherwise. Could I do another layer of glaze after the sealant and before applying the wax? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyBlackHoe Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Yes you can... No problem there, just not sure of the benefit of two coats of BG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13dgmwrx Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 True. I suppose I will only do the correcting, finishing, glaze, sealant and then wax. How long should the sealant and glaze be left on to cure? 30 minutes each? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GerryC Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Sealant should go on bare paint, after polishing. Cure time depends on which sealant you are using. MSS, needs to set up for 30 minutes before wiping off the residue. LPS, ~10 minutes. QS residue can be removed almost immediately. I would put the glaze on after sealant, and then wax. If you are using MSS, you need to wait 12 hours before layering anything on top, and you'll need to give the car a wipedown beforehand. LPS, only about 30 minutes before layering, and QS can be layered almost immediately. Team Adam's 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13dgmwrx Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 (edited) Sealant should go on bare paint, after polishing. Cure time depends on which sealant you are using. MSS, needs to set up for 30 minutes before wiping off the residue. LPS, ~10 minutes. QS residue can be removed almost immediately. I would put the glaze on after sealant, and then wax. If you are using MSS, you need to wait 12 hours before layering anything on top, and you'll need to give the car a wipedown beforehand. LPS, only about 30 minutes before layering, and QS can be layered almost immediately. Thanks for the detailed answer!! I am using the liquid paint sealant. Well I have seen that Chris suggests to do a layer of glaze over the finishing residue to aid in ease of removal and reap the benefits of the glaze. That was why I asked about doing glaze again on top of the sealant, but I believe I will just do buttery over the LPS. Edited June 15, 2014 by 13dgmwrx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GerryC Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 If you were to forgo sealant, then using BG in the manner he suggested would be a good time saver. Since sealant needs to actually bond to the surface (as opposed to glazes and waxes which just sort of sit on top of it) you should ideally have nothing between the paint and the sealant. 13dgmwrx 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Bobby Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Looking good and the GG6 is looking to treat you well as well! If you didn't notice already the foam pads work better on higher speed (5) whereas the MF pads I like to dial down to 3-4 and work it a bit longer at slow pad rotation 13dgmwrx 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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