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Diluted Rinseless & H2O Gloss together???


bosco1

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Hey guys thanks for answering my question on the difference of Rinseless/Waterless. Thought it might be best to ask this question in a new thread. I'm going to dilute some of my rinseless this weekend. (16/1) I haven't used liquid paint sealent or H2O GG on 2 of my cars.. They've only been driven to a car show in my town. So they are not really dirty could probably just detail spray and be done. The last thing on them were Brilliant glaze and detail spray.

My question is can I use the diluted rinseless then spray the H2O GG on top of that then wipe them down?? I have waterless but it's the old formula btw..

thanks in advance..

 

dan

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I see what you're saying, and it would be convenient, but at least my experiences with testing H2O Guard, it really likes to have a clean surface to work properly. For example, as a test a few weeks back, I tried just spraying off my lightly dusty/dirty hood of my truck (that already had a ton of protection on it from Americana) with just water from the hose to quickly demonstrate the product to a friend, and then I sprayed a couple trigger pulls of HGG on the hood. I had more difficulty spreading it and it streaked some, probably due to dragging around that very light amount of dirt with it too. I then cleaned the painted bed lid with Waterless Wash first, wiped it dry, then sprayed it down with the hose and applied HGG and it worked as it was supposed to at applying and removal.

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Not a good idea to spray both on at the same time.  You want to have the paint clean before wiping on and buffing off the HGG, so you are not causing scratches by picking up dust or dirt in the towels.

 

You can use diluted RW to perform a WW style cleaning using proper technique to remove the dust or dirt as safely as possible, then spray HGG onto the surface that is still wet.  This saves time since you are sealing and drying at the same time.

 

Watch the videos on Waterless Washing, as the proper technique is key.  You don't just spray it on and wipe haphazardly or excessively with the towel.  You want to have the towel pick up and remove the contaminates from the surface of the paint, and not repeatedly rub the contaminates into the paint, which can lead to swirls or scratching.

 

As a side note, I will also point out that even if you cannot see damage to the paint from poor technique or dirty towels, that over time the non-visible scratching causes an overall loss in gloss and depth in the paint.  When I say "non-visible", I mean that you cannot see the individual scratches with your eye, and they do not appears as swirls.

 

A good example is to take a dark-colored vehicle with no visible swirls or other defects, then perform a two-step polish, and see that it is left with much more gloss.  This extra gloss not seen in the original, un-swirled paint comes mostly from the extra reflectivity when these non-visible scratches are removed.  I say "mostly" as a generalization, since any product build-up, oxidation, and other types of contamination on the surface are removed when polishing, and these also affect optical clarity.

 

My point is, don't just go by the rule of "if I can't immediately see it, then no damage was done".  Over time, say months or years, the loss of gloss due to non-visible scratches may not be noticeable, until it gets polished again.

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